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Two Part Paint Question +

  • Thread starter Thread starter stiksave
  • Start date Start date
Apparently there is a company or two that IS making a two part paint in a rattle bomb. The can is seperated, paint on top, catalyst on the bottom, you smack the can on the ground or whatever, piercing the bottom container, then shake and spray. I dunno the name of the company, but someone on the DTT board was talking about it. Apparently it works quite well and is as impervious to gas as any two part auto paint/clear
 
I just got back with a new dry/filter setup for the compressor. I also did buy a couple of refillable spray cans (to try for less than $10 worth a try).

One question Acrylic Enamel is more durable right?? and I can spray it over the dry laquer? I know I can't put them on the other way around because it will wrinkle.

If it doesn't work on the test piece I'm out very little and I can alway use my own paint gun for the two part.

My paint guy was out today So I couldn't talk shop with him on the type/brand of paint I need. So I will try some clear Acrylic Enamel with a test piece.

Cafekid: can you find the web site for that stuff??
 
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earlfor said:
...I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat).......
Earl
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One thing I was reading the cut sheet on the stuff I used and It seems to be a water based acrylic lacquer?? Could that be one reason it was so soft, I guess?? And if that is the case then I could just fix the spots rough up and repaint correct?
 
You can spray single part (spray can) lacquer over dried, catalyzed automotive finishes, no problem, no reaction. An automotive finish (acrylic, urethane, etc) will soften and bubble, spray can lacquer. You can get around this problem by spraying half a dozen tack/mist coats of automotive acrylic with no single coat giving full coverage. The light coats will set quickly enough to form a seal on the lacquer and after about 6 hours, you can apply a normal coat of the acrylic. Catalyzed, automotive acrylic enamel is far more durable than any spray can enamel or lacquer, yes.

Earl


buttonhook said:
I just got back with a new dry/filter setup for the compressor. I also did buy a couple of refillable spray cans (to try for less than $10 worth a try).

One question Acrylic Enamel is more durable right?? and I can spray it over the dry laquer? I know I can't put them on the other way around because it will wrinkle.
Click to expand...
 
Its correct that catalzed automotive paints do not react to water based coatings, either clear or color. You cannot make a spot repair without putting a sealer coat afterwards of waterbased acrylic on the whole part before spraying with automotive paint. You cannot break the surface in any manner such as sanding or "roughing up. The water base acrylic must be an unbroken layer on the part youre painting. Anything, even a pinhole in the coat will allow the auto paint to reach the layer underneath and it will bubble and ripple and you will be left with a non setting patch of semi hard goo for eternity.

Earl


buttonhook said:
One thing I was reading the cut sheet on the stuff I used and It seems to be a water based acrylic lacquer?? Could that be one reason it was so soft, I guess?? And if that is the case then I could just fix the spots rough up and repaint correct?
Click to expand...
 
I'm glad you got the dryer for the compressor. I couldn't helpmyself. Put the pieces on the bike for a look see.

Thanks,
Stiksave
 
earlfor said:
Its correct that catalzed automotive paints do not react to water based coatings, either clear or color. You cannot make a spot repair without putting a sealer coat afterwards of waterbased acrylic on the whole part before spraying with automotive paint. You cannot break the surface in any manner such as sanding or "roughing up. The water base acrylic must be an unbroken layer on the part youre painting. Anything, even a pinhole in the coat will allow the auto paint to reach the layer underneath and it will bubble and ripple and you will be left with a non setting patch of semi hard goo for eternity.

Earl
Click to expand...
If I understand you correctly, I can/will have too respray the whole thing with the water based acrylic laquer base, let it dry, then spray with a good automotive clear. Or should I be ready to go with the clear while it is still ing the tacky stage?? I should be ok then correct??

Also I just painted a test piece, That I had painted at the same time as the bike, with the clear enamel and so far no wrinkles or lifting! But I will have to wait 7 days for the gas test.


BTW stiksave THAT IS RED!!! no mistaking as red but it looks good. I also did not mean to highjack your thread. sorry..
 
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Respraying the whole thing is the safest way to do it. If you spot spray a repair, you will have to feather the edges because you will have a rough paint halo on the perimeter of the sprayed repair and you cannot risk sanding it out. If will show up looking like glossy sandpaper if you try to paint over that kind of thing. You must seal the whole piece in an unbroken/unscratched layer of the water based acrylic. Do a coat front to back, then a coat right to left at 90 deg, then a third coat of the waterbased acrylic at a 45 deg angle to insure coverage. Then let it dry completely. I would give it 24 hours to dry. Do not sand or scuff anything.
If you do get a run, you can sand it out, but you will have to repeat the three coats of water base acrylic process and wait another 24 hours.
Then you can apply the automotive paint. Shoot thin coats. You want to minimize the amount of liquid/paint laying on top of the acrylic and have the shortest setting time. If there is a fault in the acrylic layer, this will minimize and probably inhibit any damaging reaction. After you have about three mist coats (using the front to back, right to left and 45 deg diagonal method of application) (These three coats are applied wet on tacky, which is about every three or four minutes.) Wait ten minutes and apply a full coverage coat of the automotive paint. Let dry 24 hours. Wet sand very lightly with #1200 and plain water. Sand just enough to reduce the shine, but not enough to make the paint appear flat/glossless. Recoat with the final finish coat. Let dry 24 hours before handling it.

Earl


buttonhook said:
If I understand you correctly, I can/will have too respray the whole thing with the water based acrylic laquer base, let it dry, then spray with a good automotive clear. Or should I be ready to go with the clear while it is still ing the tacky stage?? I should be ok then correct??

Also I just painted a test piece, That I had painted at the same time as the bike, with the clear enamel and so far no wrinkles or lifting! But I will have to wait 7 days for the gas test.


BTW stiksave THAT IS RED!!! no mistaking as red but it looks good. I also did not mean to highjack your thread. sorry..
Click to expand...
 
sounds good I think I'm going to give it a try. if I mess up I'll just sand it down and start over from the begining.

Thanks alot. I may have more question later.
 
ButtonHook, Good luck. Yes it's very RED. Besides the clear cracking on the old paint job,I got sick of the black. The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road. Next thing. Should I repaint the Rifle fairing or leave it black, or just take it off. Don't worry about the thread, as long as it's not political.

Next question. I have a couple of tabs to repair. What adhesive, fiber glass, stuff do we use?

Thanks,
Stiksave
 
stiksave said:
ButtonHook, Good luck. Yes it's very RED. Besides the clear cracking on the old paint job,I got sick of the black. The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road. Next thing. Should I repaint the Rifle fairing or leave it black, or just take it off. Don't worry about the thread, as long as it's not political.

Next question. I have a couple of tabs to repair. What adhesive, fiber glass, stuff do we use?

Thanks,
Stiksave
Click to expand...
Good choice of color Sticksave! I love red on the 83's
wish I could help with a product to use on the side cover. I can ask at the wifes shop if you don't get a reply.
 
buttonhook said:
yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx
Click to expand...

Dude, you can buy a decent yet inexpensive water separator at Harbor Freight for less than 20 bucks. They work well. Depending on the size of your tank and the layout of your compressor setup, I would get an inline separator and keep it nearer to the gun. Any clear that cures by evaporation in stead of chemical catalyzation will succumb to almost any petroleum based liquids.
 
PAULYBOY said:
Dude, you can buy a decent yet inexpensive water separator at Harbor Freight for less than 20 bucks. They work well. Depending on the size of your tank and the layout of your compressor setup, I would get an inline separator and keep it nearer to the gun. Any clear that cures by evaporation in stead of chemical catalyzation will succumb to almost any petroleum based liquids.
Click to expand...

Yeah thanks, I took care of the dryer/filter this morning at HF. It wasn't much so I bought one. My gun is out in my building and I'm going to respray everything this week if the weather will helps me out.

I was mad because the paint job was prefect!! (except the paint itself) And I was trying to find the easiest way to fix it if I could have. HF is not all that near to me so I had to make a special trip (to save some money). And I was not sure about my compressor since it has been stored in a barn(with hay, dirt, and animals for a couple of years now).Thats the reason I didn't use it to begin with.
 
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stiksave said:
The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road.
Click to expand...

One GM Victory Red coming up. That's the paint I used.
bikepics-1184339-800.jpg
 
At $18 a can it's a deal if you don't have spray equipment. nothing to clean up, no ungodly mess other than the usual. Wow! I wonder what psi the paint comes out at, and what spray pattern it has.
 
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