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Two Part Paint Question +

  • Thread starter Thread starter stiksave
  • Start date Start date
Thinned according to specifications, I usually spray these types of paint at 30-35 psi. The mixed consistency is about the same as water. I will guess the can would have to be pressurized to retain that pressure when nearly empty of paint. Spray pattern is the worst trait of spray cans. The pattern is about right when the can is full and pressure is high, but as paint is used, pressure drops and too much paint flows for the pressure remaining which results in spits and drips.

Earl

At $18 a can it's a deal if you don't have spray equipment. nothing to clean up, no ungodly mess other than the usual. Wow! I wonder what psi the paint comes out at, and what spray pattern it has.
 
Dardoonk, that's a pretty 750. Nice job. Earlfor, I was surprised at how thin the two part paints were.

Stiksave
 
Dardoonk, that's a pretty 750. Nice job. Earlfor, I was surprised at how thin the two part paints were.

Stiksave

Most paints these days are low VOC type, and are designed so you don't have to add reducer before spraying; reducer adds VOC's which the EPA folks don't want. Bottom line is that these paints are fairly thin as mixed but the spraying viscoscity is similar to the older paints with reducer added.

If you can still get the old style, high VOC paint, such as PPG 2001/2002 clear, get some (or get some for me and I'll pay you for it). This stuff is high solids paint and lays down very nicely. Two wet coats is all you need. Super durable against paint chips and fuel spills. New stuff doesn’t seem as good in my experience but it’s still acceptable.
 
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Update!!
I did find a 2 part clear that worked directly over the rattle can acrlyic laquer (dupli-color metal specks). I sprayed it this morning. Looks good, no peeling or bubbles. It will be wet sanded and buffed tommorrow. It is dupont hc7600s and I used the dupont hc7607s activator in a 4:1 ratio. **Warning it does dry really fast!**


Thanks for all the help guys!!!
 
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Update!!
I did find a 2 part clear that worked directly over the rattle can acrlyic laquer (dupli-color metal specks). I sprayed it this morning. Looks good, no peeling or bubbles. It will be wet sanded and buffed tommorrow. It is dupont hc7600s and I used the dupont hc7607s activator in a 4:1 ratio. **Warning it does dry really fast!**


Thanks for all the help guys!!!
Good God, dude! After all this, you gotta load some pix of the bike. Also, what was the cost of the clear you used? I heard Dupont was getting pretty pricey.
 
Good God, dude! After all this, you gotta load some pix of the bike. Also, what was the cost of the clear you used? I heard Dupont was getting pretty pricey.

It is very pricey (retail is $62.69 for a quart of clear and $38.97 for a 1/2 pint of the activator however I could have painted 2-3 bikes with this amount) Unfortunely, because of the VAST amount of VERY HEAVY metal flake (think a bass boat's gel coat) in the spray paint they could not match the paint with a standard auto paint (without going to a three part paint, we tried several times and made maybe a gallon's worth of 1/2 pint mixes). However because my paint guy (where I bought everything else) couldn't match the paint he special ordered this stuff then GAVE it to me NO CHARGE so I could finish the project!! He just labeled it a remix error.

I will post more oics but the bike is not buffed out yet so I want to wait. But it looks just like the pictures I posted before. You can't really see the metal flake in the photos.
It is coming out great. The only problem I have had so far is my paint gun burped on me once and caused a couple of heavy dots/splatters(which I wet sanded out). Also if you try this stuff it was ready to wet sand after one hour!! I did wait for 12 but it was ready after an hour just like they said it would be so work fast.
 
Good God, dude! After all this, you gotta load some pix of the bike. Also, what was the cost of the clear you used? I heard Dupont was getting pretty pricey.


ok here they are I'll have to get it out in the sun to get better ones but you get the idea of how shinny it really is. LIKE A MIRROR!!!

3089169_20_full.jpg

3089169_21_full.jpg

3089169_22_full.jpg



The last one looks much closer what to the color really is but, the camera doesn't catch the amount of metal flake that is in it. You can kind of see it in the last one around where the light is reflecting. It hurts my eyes to look at it when it's in the sun. These picture were taken under the shed in the shade and you can see from the chome everything else is D I R T Y!!!! And the base was still done with a spray can!!

BTW I did a test of this finish on a scrap piece using carb cleaner....no lifting or pitting!!! YEAH!!!!!
 
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Decals installed. Be carefull dulling the surface of the decals. 1200 wet and dry and back and forth twice is all that is needed. This is after the clearcoat is applied. Still Drying.

Thanks,
Stik
 
Stiksave

Stiksave

Can you explain how you are doing the decals again.

It seems with the decal directions that you do the whole job first:

pimer
base
pearl
clear

Then you let it dry for 5 days
Wet sand 1000
Then apply the decals
Let it dry 24 hrs then???
So you are also sanding the decals with 1200?

or are you applying the decal over the unsanded clear coat then sanding the whole thing?

Then the Final clear coats (1 fog, 2 wet)

TIA
Posplayr
 
Can you explain how you are doing the decals again.

It seems with the decal directions that you do the whole job first:

pimer
base
pearl
clear

Then you let it dry for 5 days
Wet sand 1000
Then apply the decals
Let it dry 24 hrs then???
So you are also sanding the decals with 1200?

Yes I am also taking the shine off of the decals as suggested by Earlfor. As I said, back and forth twice lightly, all done. It assures that the clear likes the decals. Well here it is so far. No rub out or anything, what do you think?

Thanks,
Stik
 
stiksave

stiksave

Looks really good. I wish mine was that far along....

I guess I have to get another beer and get back out into the garage and keep sanding.......

Posplayr
 
I did the same thing when painting my tank; two layers of clear followed by sanding before applying decals/pinstripes. I’d caution anyone contemplating sanding decals; its risky business since the decal can get damaged. Honestly, it shouldn’t be necessary – I’ve never heard of people doing this but then again I’m not a professional painter or anything.
 
I haven't rubbed anything out or waxed the bike yet. Actually I haven't detailed it for the season yet, but I wanted to post a picture or two at the end of this thread to show what can be done in your own garage. Let me know what you think. 1983 GS1100E.
Maddie028.jpg


Thanks
Stiksave
 
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Quality work Mr. Stiksave, you should be very proud of your work. it shows the attention to detail you have.

what gun and air pressure?
what did you think of the gun you bought?
what if anything would you have done different?
 
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Thanks RustyBronco. The gun is a syphon Binks knock off that's about twenty years old. I'd guess around 50 psi at the gun. The gun works well. Differently? Dust control, and learn to slow down and lay down lighter coats, which I did with the final clear coats. I'm really happy with it. Quite a contrast from the black that was on it last time.

Stiksave
Maddie021.jpg
 
Can't beat some of the the old siphon binks/devilbiss for laying a glass like coat.
I had mistakenly thought you used a hvlp.
 
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