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Two Questions on GS1100GK I just picked up...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Planecrazy
  • Start date Start date
Ok ... update:

Unplugged the stater wires (all three) and proceeded to take the bike for a short ride around the neighborhood (ATGATT, of course) with no blown main fuse (and I purposely used a 10amp rather than the specified 15amp), so I know the problem involves the stator. Now I just have to trace the harness back and see whether there is a shorted wire or whether the stator is actually bad. Either way I've found the base cause of the main fuse failure.

I've also discovered in riding this bike that the driveline is MUCH tighter than the one on my "G." Shifts are much smoother and it's easier to find neutral than on the '83. This makes my decision as to which bike to keep and which to sell harder. The '83 "G" is still the much nicer bike, but the lower mileage of the '82 would seem to make it mechanically the bike I might want to stick with, even though the aesthetics have a long way to go.

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

Regards,
 
Redman said:
Steve,

- You liked the GK seat so much you bought an entire GK ? ?

- This a complete GK with fairing, bags, trunk ectera?
Click to expand...
Funny how the world works, eh? Ironically the seat on this GK is probably it's worst feature ... the pan is rusted badly (gone in some places) and the cover is ripped in several places as well. I'm almost afraid to remove the duct tape holding it together, hehe!

Lot's of potential, though!

Regards,
 
Planecrazy said:
Ok ... update:

Unplugged the stater wires (all three) and proceeded to take the bike for a short ride around the neighborhood (ATGATT, of course) with no blown main fuse (and I purposely used a 10amp rather than the specified 15amp), so I know the problem involves the stator.
Click to expand...
No, with the stator un-plugged, current is not flowing through either the stator or the r/r. (no heat is being produced in the stator or r/r)
making it not possible to check if either one is shorting under those conditions.
connect the stator back up, waste a fuse, then check the stator as per stator pages. if it checks out ok, condemn the r/r.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Steve, if you ever decide to sell the GK, lemme know, I may be in the market for one to fix up the one im getting back to stock, or vice verse. Depending on the asking price, it may be worth it to me. Just a thought...
Click to expand...

Man, you've got a habit...
 
bwringer said:
Man, you've got a habit...
Click to expand...
What?? Me?? Sorry :( I get bored quickly. I just sold the 1100G today, taking delivery of Grandpas GK Saturday, and will be looking for a bandit or something of the like. Figured I could maybe fix the GK up over the winter, make her look purty again. Who knows... Can ya blame me?
 
TheCafeKid said:
What?? Me?? Sorry :( I get bored quickly. I just sold the 1100G today, taking delivery of Grandpas GK Saturday, and will be looking for a bandit or something of the like. Figured I could maybe fix the GK up over the winter, make her look purty again. Who knows... Can ya blame me?
Click to expand...

Can't say as I can blame you, really.

Maybe one of these days I'll be wandering home with a nice bonus in my pockets at about the time you get bored with one of your toys!
 
rustybronco said:
No, with the stator un-plugged, current is not flowing through either the stator or the r/r. (no heat is being produced in the stator or r/r)
making it not possible to check if either one is shorting under those conditions.
connect the stator back up, waste a fuse, then check the stator as per stator pages. if it checks out ok, condemn the r/r.
Click to expand...
Got it ... thanks!

Regards,
 
Steve,

Pictures??

GK Same color as your G??

You mentioned the GK drive train in better condition, but your G in better cosmetic condition.....
Had you concidered this sequence of things:
1- DeeKaying the GK. There is a market for that stuff. Infact "FireRescueMi" (in Lansing MI I think) has been after me to sell him my stash of GK parts. He has a deeKayed GK that he wants to return to stock GK parts and repaint. ANd then there is CafeKid wanting some parts for Grandapa crashed GK.
2- then take the vetter stuff and the cosmetic stuff off your G and putting it on the deeKayed GK?

Hey, this is fun, suggesting what work someonelse can do.

Maybe two obsticall to that plan, other than the work involved,
- the G fender will not fit on GK forks (as I think you and I had discussed a few weeks ago).
- will not have a headlight & brackets to fit back on the G (but those not so hard to find) where took off the vetter fairing.

So that is why I ask if GK the same marroon color as your G. Oh, for that to be true the GK would have to be an early 82 (GKZ either black or maroon), not the later 82 (GK2, brown/brown or black/silver).

.[/quote]
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
No, with the stator un-plugged, current is not flowing through either the stator or the r/r. (no heat is being produced in the stator or r/r)
making it not possible to check if either one is shorting under those conditions.
connect the stator back up, waste a fuse, then check the stator as per stator pages. if it checks out ok, condemn the r/r.
Click to expand...

rustybronco has it on the nail. If you can "prove" the fault by reproducing it to a specific component, then you can be sure that your fix will be good and cheaper. If you still have the 3rd phase from the stator to the R/R via the light switch. bypass it and pass it on directly to the rectifier, those wires are usually found with burnt connectors as well.
 
This GK is two tone brown (in need of repainting, though), not maroon like my G. I have a marginal R/R left over from the G that I thought I could swap in (for testing to rule out the one on the bike if the fuse still blows), but unfortunately it seems there was a change from '82 to '83 ... the '82 has a R/R with wires coming out, while the '83 R/R has a line of spade connectors that plugged in to the '83 wiring harness (I replaced it with a Honda unit). I'll have to play some wiring games to swap the two out quickly for the test, but I'm in no major rush. Of course I could also just do the stator test (as suggested) and get results that way too. Either way I hope to have the time within the next few days.

Sorry about the lack of pictures ... the reason for the delay is that I loaned my camera to my brother-in-law and expect it back tomorrow.

Regards,
 
Planecrazy said:
Unplugged the stater wires (all three) and proceeded to take the bike for a short ride around the neighborhood (ATGATT, of course) with no blown main fuse (and I purposely used a 10amp rather than the specified 15amp), so I know the problem involves the stator.
Click to expand...

rustybronco said:
No, with the stator un-plugged, current is not flowing through either the stator or the r/r. (no heat is being produced in the stator or r/r)
making it not possible to check if either one is shorting under those conditions.
connect the stator back up, waste a fuse, then check the stator as per stator pages. if it checks out ok, condemn the r/r.
Click to expand...
I agree. With the stator wires disconnected, both the stator and the r/r are out of the circuit.
The problem might be in the r/r, but it needs the stator to complete the circuit. :-k

.
 
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