Tying down a 1979 GS1000S

[Lawrence Johnson]

Going to take my GS1000S to someone who can give it more love than I can. I'll be towing it on a DiamondC trailer (along with my BMWK1200LT); the trailer has multiple tie-down points.

I've gotten good advice for tying down the BMW and proved them out with a 1200 mile tow. But its suspension and configuration is utterly alien to the GS1000.

So far, I think that I can tie down the rear using soft-ties over the tubular frame; the soft-ties will be against the plastic inner fender but that shouldn't be a problem.

Tying down the front is the real challenge: the GS1000 cafe fairing is the major impediment: soft ties on either the handlebars or the fork braces give me few angles to work with if I want to avoid rubbing between the tie-down straps and the fairing.

I did a search on the forums but didn't find anything specific. Can anyone help? Thanks.

Larry Johnson
El Paso TX

 

[Pete Logan]

I have done a 750 a couple different ways to Finland and back - about 1,000 kilometres each way.

I have kept it upright with stops against the tires and strapped it both ways - that works but don't strap it down tight - just stop it falling over and let it ride on its own suspension.

I have also put it on the side stand and strapped each wheel down tight to the floor - that works too, provided the side stand doesn't break

It's best to let the bike ride its own suspension, however you think is best.

 

[80GS750]

when i strapped my 1000 down, i put it on its centerstand, then strapped the tires down good, and used the forks in front, and frame in the rear for strapping from an angle

 

[makenzie71]

I never tie down suspended components. You hit a bump, the suspension compresses, and bam...lost bike.


I've always secured bikes from the highest unsprung points...usually the tops of the fork legs and rear wheel. I'll place additional straps from handlebars, over the seat, and from the frame for teh sake of stability, but I never use them to hold the bike to the trailer. this is going to be a lot like "what oil to use", though...lots of opinions.

 

[Pete Logan]

Maybe the best way to figure it out is to go to a local dirt bike race and see how they do it. Those guys get lots of practice.

 

[lurch12_2000]

according to the dealer who ships a lot of bikes and other sources:
use a front wheel chock(made of tubular steel and available for $15 that uses 4 bolts holding it to the deck) with 2 hookless ratchet straps at a 45 degree angle from the lower front forks to sturdy eyelets bolted to the trailer decking. Make sure to strap to the lower fork, by the fender mount, so there is no compression or stress on the front suspension. For additional safety on heavier bikes, 2 straps to the rear frame down tube, usually around "10 o'clock on the rear wheel", again at a 45 degree angle to the trailer decking eyelets. Be careful not to pinch any wiring harness or other things that might be tie wrapped to the frame.
Two things I would say are critical are the 45 degree angle of the straps and not cinching down the front causing the fork to compress and potentially blow out your seals.

 

[chopz54]

I never tie down suspended components. You hit a bump, the suspension compresses, and bam...lost bike.

Compress the suspension, then tie down. Never fails.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Compress the suspension, then tie down. Never fails.

Agreed. You tie down a bike witout compressing the suspension somewhat, and the first good bottoming it takes, your strap tension will go slack, and she could fall over.

 

[tkent02]

Rocket science again.
Blow the seals, yeah right.

 

[twr1776]

I have been using this system for tieing the bike down. I bought some 3000 lb. rated chokers and hook them to the frame. Since you have the fairing you should be able to put the chokers on the lower triple tree and use ratchet straps to tie it down with. We used that method on Wazz's Concours and it went under the fairing and worked fine. I do not fully compress the suspension but do bring it down about 1 - 2 " or so and have not had any problems. If you do not have the pipe type front wheel chock that would be a good investment to put the front tire into. I also have the circular tie downs that are attached to the bed of the trailer with fender washers and bolts with locknuts. I got my straps at a local trailer shop and one thing the owner mentioned was to make sure you have four times the weight of the bike in tie down strap working weight in case of a panic stop situation. He told me that almost all cases he had heard of a bike getting loose is because of a panic stop situation and lack of straps rated working weight on the back end to keep the bike from breaking the rear tie downs. I will put two straps on the front and four on the back.


http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd184/ZUKFAN/?action=view&current=6-21-08SERallyEtc016.jpg

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd184/ZUKFAN/?action=view&current=6-21-08SERallyEtc018.jpg

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd184/ZUKFAN/?action=view&current=6-21-08SERallyEtc022.jpg

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd184/ZUKFAN/?action=view&current=6-21-08SERallyEtc020.jpg

 

[makenzie71]

Compress the suspension, then tie down. Never fails.

Agreed. You tie down a bike witout compressing the suspension somewhat, and the first good bottoming it takes, your strap tension will go slack, and she could fall over.

Actually, if you only tie down unsprung parts, your suspension can compress as much as it likes and you will never lose tension. That's the point. If you tie your straps to sprung components, THEN you face the risk of slacking your straps when you hit a bump.

 

[80GS1000]

I use the 5 tie-down ratchet strap method to tow my GSXR to/from the racetrack.

One strap goes on the lower triple clamp between the steering stem and the fork tube on the left side. Repeat for the right side of the lower triple between the steering and fork tube. Clamp it down till the front forks compress a fair bit.

One goes over the seat/frame to compress the rear suspension.

Two go through the rear wheel.

Never had a problem doing it this way.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Actually, if you only tie down unsprung parts, your suspension can compress as much as it likes and you will never lose tension. That's the point. If you tie your straps to sprung components, THEN you face the risk of slacking your straps when you hit a bump.

Tie them however you like. When (IF) i ever have to tie mine down, it will be tied down the way I was always taught. Slightly compressed. The bike itself is not heavy enough to compress the suspension any further than partway no matter how big a jolt it takes. If it does, you have suspension problems anyway.

 

[Guest]

If it's a real live 'S ,wrap it in blankets and matresses and put it inside the car.Get the family to sit on the trailer.They'll understand.Cheers,Simon.

 

[lurch12_2000]

If it's a real live 'S ,wrap it in blankets and matresses and put it inside the car.Get the family to sit on the trailer.They'll understand.Cheers,Simon.

I think you got something there...but you didn't specify how to tie down family members to the trailer so they don't fall over or off?

 

[Guest]

Get 'em all drunk and it won't hurt when they hit the ground.Don't ask how I know.Cheers,Simon.

 

[Zook]

Silly Yuppies, trailers are for boats!
Serously, always attacch to the bike from an UNsprung point. This allows the suspension to do as intended. To suspend the bike when you hit bumps.Tying it down from the suspended points may damage forks from bottoming, especially if you have cartridge type forks.

I also had a Concours and use the double ended loop straps and went around the top of the lower fork tube between the fender and tube then put the tie down hook through that. Worked flawlessly to Montana and back when we had more people than bikes.
Rode there the first time.

 

[lurch12_2000]

Silly Yuppies, trailers are for boats!
Serously, always attacch to the bike from an UNsprung point. This allows the suspension to do as intended. To suspend the bike when you hit bumps.Tying it down from the suspended points may damage forks from bottoming, especially if you have cartridge type forks.

I also had a Concours and use the double ended loop straps and went around the top of the lower fork tube between the fender and tube then put the tie down hook through that. Worked flawlessly to Montana and back when we had more people than bikes.
Rode there the first time.

That's info I was trying to pass on in the earlier thread but was scoffed at and accused of rocket science
Now here's the rocket science:
Partially compress the suspension and and strap the handle bars or upper front forks, and you probably still have 2 inches of travel plus the 1/2 inch flex of the tires and watch those straps slacken on the bumps in your rear mirror and hope your bike doesn't reposition itself at a funny angle. Now, be honest, admit you probably then pull over at the next rest area to fix!
or
Do it the right way and have only the 1/2 inch flex of the tires and hardly notice any slackening of the straps when you hit the dips and bumps.

Further rocket science:
Now allow for the stretch of the straps ( yes ,there is always a percentage of stretch factor that can be relative to the length of the tie down strap).
By strapping at a 45 degree angle (most stable angle) from the lower fork below the sprung weight point you'll be close to 2-3 ft of length from bike to tie down hooks.
Strap at the handlebar or triple tree point and you're closer to 5-6 ft of strap length.(Do your math with finding the length of the sides of a triangle and maintain that 45 degree angle!)
Let's see...5% stretch factor of 3ft = 1.8in, 5ft = 3in, and also add that difference to the slackening factor of the 2 methods when hitting the bumps.

Had enough??? pictures are available for the reading challenged... or just ride the bike if it's roadworthy!!!!!

 

[PAULYBOY]

Agreed. You tie down a bike witout compressing the suspension somewhat, and the first good bottoming it takes, your strap tension will go slack, and she could fall over.

Anytime I've tied a bike, it's been from the front and rear axles to the attaching points. I tied it down with 8 tie downs 2 on each side for lateral stability, and 2 on each side for fore and aft stability.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Rocket science again.
Blow the seals, yeah right.

Exactly, if you're going to tie it down using the bars or anything above the lower fork tubes use something between the lower triple and the fender or some other way to keep from compressing the forks. This way you take the dive out of the suspension and won't have the fork compressed and ruining seals.