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uh oh - oil filter over studs / bolts stripped

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
M

maro

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uh oh - oil filter cover studs / bolts stripped. So it would seem. I recently did an oil change. when I got under neath to unscrew the bolts from the oil filter cover, i noticed oil had been seeping out of cover. I replaced the filter (the O ring looks fine). When putting the filter cover back on, the bottom left bolt kept turning and turning without tightening. At closer inspection it looks like not only the nut, but the stud might be stripped : #13 { http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/parts/Suzuki/GS650GX/1981/1026384 } This worries me. How do I replace this myself. What is the size of the stud? Maybe it is just the nut # 14. Can I get something like this at Home Depot???

thanks as always
 
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Try the other nut and see if it spins. If it does, the stud's stripped. If it doesn't, you're in luck and just need a new nut, easily available at a good hardware store.

The tough part is if you have to replace the stud, you stand a very good chance of breaking it off. Sears sells stud removers that work very well, but there's still a chance of breakage. If it breaks, you're going to have to drill it out and retap. You might want to think about having a machine shop do it. If you do it yourself, soak the base of the stud at least overnight with PB Blaster or (better) Corrosion X. Then heat the stud with a torch before trying to wrestle it out. Not glowing hot, just hot.
 
Thanks for your reply

I tired the nut test. It looks like it's the stud. DAYUM!!! If I can get it out, how do install the new stud.?? Just tap it in?

Meanwhile, even though the nut can be turned fairly easily with a socket wrench, it's definitely pressing the filter cover on and cannot be turned by hand. Also, the nut is screwed on far enough that it is pressing the washer securely against the filter cover. It's just prob not torqued enough to create a very very tight seem. Would a silicone base sealant perhaps work to seal the seem that the oil is leaking from? For a temp fix?
 
The new stud would screw in. It's basically a short threaded rod.

I honestly don't know if silicone would seal it, but you definitely don't want to run your bike low on oil, even temporarily. If you decide to risk it, ride with one eye on your oil light and stop if it so much as flickers.
 
That happens all the time with GS's it seems. Over the last 21 years I've had to replace at least half a dozen studs. You SHOULD be able to remove the stud with a pair if vise grips, just get a good grip on the stud and rotate counterclockwise. It might take a tap or 2 with a hammer but no more than that. Order 3 or 4 studs from Suzuki to keep on hand, as you'll need them eventually.
When you install the new stud, make sure you screw in the crankcase side of the stud, as there is a difference in the threads. Use a little blue Loctite on the threads, let it set a few minutes and you're ready top put the filter cover back on.

One word of advice, it is best to only use Suzuki filter cover gaskets, as most of the aftermarket gaskets are thicker and harder - they don't compress as easily and this will get those studs stripped fast. Oh, these gaskets are reuseable too - I have about 5 Suzuki gaskets that I rotate between at each oil change.
 
thanks everyone. i'm going to bike bandit to order the studs, nuts and more gaskets now. much appreicated!!
 
maro said:
thanks everyone. i'm going to bike bandit to order the studs, nuts and more gaskets now. much appreicated!!
Click to expand...


If it were me, I might just pull the stud (one or all three) and replace it with a bolt. But then again, I've been known to do crazy things :-s...
 
I might be inclined to do that as well, but I'd much rather have a stripped stud or nut than a stripped hole in my engine case. Wonder where I could get some heavy-duty studs that wouldn't strip out as easy.
 
would you guys please quickly let me know how a bolt would work for this issue. thanks
 
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Well, that's pretty easy. Take the stud out, take it to a reputable bolt place and find out what size/thread the part of the stud that goes into the engine is, then buy a bolt that size. It shouldn't be as long as the stud, but long enough to bolt the cover on with enough bite in the engine case. You don't want to bottom it out or it will leak or strip the engine threads. Don't forget to use a washer on the bolt.
 
Removing the studs and replacing them with bolts is a good way to get back on the road, but these MUST be replaced with studs ASAP.

6mm threads into aluminum are not designed to withstand repeated assembly and disassembly. A few oil changes down the road, the threads in the cases would be getting very worn and wobbly.

Since I didn't want to reinstall the same low-grade cheddar cheese studs that stripped so easily the first time, I ordered up some stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr. (Stainless is harder and thus should stand up longer.) You can also find 6mm studs in any hardware store, like an Ace or DoItBest (but not at a home center).
 
thank you much for the advice. I ordered the OEM studs from bikebandit. BUt I'm going to check Ace as well. Thanks!
 
bwringer said:
Removing the studs and replacing them with bolts is a good way to get back on the road, but these MUST be replaced with studs ASAP.

6mm threads into aluminum are not designed to withstand repeated assembly and disassembly. A few oil changes down the road, the threads in the cases would be getting very worn and wobbly.

Since I didn't want to reinstall the same low-grade cheddar cheese studs that stripped so easily the first time, I ordered up some stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr. (Stainless is harder and thus should stand up longer.) You can also find 6mm studs in any hardware store, like an Ace or DoItBest (but not at a home center).
Click to expand...

Good point, and good solution BW.
 
thanks for the tip, you guys rock. i just got a 1978 gs550e as my first bike and i was tinkering around and seeing if the oil filter needed changing when the stud was too stripped to put it the cover back on. i seriously thought i was done for and i had wasted $650 until i stumbled into this thread. i am going to give the plyers a try after i get something from Ace. still nervous tho...
 
maro said:
thanks everyone. i'm going to bike bandit to order the studs, nuts and more gaskets now. much appreicated!!
Click to expand...
Just go to ace or westlakes hardware store and get the 6mm by 200mm stud. and put it in.they are better quality than the oem crap
 
update:
i used plyers (specifically a pair of parallel-action ones) to successfully remove the stripped stud and replace it with one from Ace. everything went well.
 
I have been dealing with this issue on my 82 GS450L.

Well, I unfortunately didn't find this thread in time, and ended up stripping the threads in the block hole by accident (I did this last summer).

I did a helicoil repair that worked for quite a while, but it finally gave up the ghost. And now the holes are too loose to handle another coil repair.

So now I am stuck between the options of:

1.) taking it to the shop and paying them (they quoted me 1 hr. per hole, for a total of $210)

2.) trying to do a different type of thread repair myself (something like Full-Torque, which is $150 for a kit)

3.) welding the studs in there permanently

4.) drilling the hole out a little wider and trying to find a threaded rod with 2 different diameters on either end.

Thoughts?
 
Ishamael70 said:
I have been dealing with this issue on my 82 GS450L.

I did a helicoil repair that worked for quite a while, but it finally gave up the ghost. And now the holes are too loose to handle another coil repair.

So now I am stuck between the options of:

4.) drilling the hole out a little wider and trying to find a threaded rod with 2 different diameters on either end.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
4.) find a stud with two different sizes.

5.) jb weld, let set for a few days, drill and tap for studs, put cover on, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!


6.) put the heli-coil(s) back in with green loctite (stud and bearing mount), insert studs, let set a few days, put cover on, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!

I would go with #6
 
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rustybronco said:
4.) find a stud with two different sizes.

5.) jb weld, let set for a few days, drill and tap for studs, put cover on, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!


6.) put the heli-coil(s) back in with green loctite (stud and bearing mount), insert studs, let set a few days, put cover on, DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!

I would go with #6
Click to expand...

I actually did try #6 and it worked...very briefly. I got it running and took it for a spin around the driveway before it shot a fountain of oil a couple feet out the front of the bike. :cry:
 
Then two choices as I see it. (other options may be available)

Weld up the holes, drill and tap.

Tap for a larger size bolt (if you have the metal left) then drill and tap for the correct stud. (a proper length set screw may work for the bushing)

at the very least I would remove the exhaust, and forks to do either. then make a fixture so it can be drilled correctly.
 
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