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Untweaking My Frame

  • Thread starter Thread starter whereiwannabe
  • Start date Start date
W

whereiwannabe

Guest
It's been almost a year since I bought my 1100ES and I've finally dug into a lingering aesthetic issue with the back of the bike and have discovered that the most rear point of the frame on the left side is higher by about 3/8"-1/2" from the other side. I'm assuming it was from some sort of lay down. Right where the frame tube starts going un-level I can see some surface rust indicating the paint got cracked there. While it is only aesthetic-- affecting the alignment of the seat cowling, tail light, and license plate-- if it's fixable within my limited ability I'd like to try and do it.

2012-02-04_14-13-48_625.jpg

A 4' level certainly shows the frame bend when it is resting on the very rear of the frame.

2012-02-04_14-14-14_224.jpg


2012-02-04_14-15-03_747.jpg

Level is fairly level at seat cowling rear attachment points.

2012-02-04_14-17-14_828.jpg

Only about 5" from where the frame is level to the back of the bike.

Suggestions?
 
I ould probably cut part way through the tube where it starts to bent with a cut-off wheel. Then bend it till it is level. Finally weld it up and blend it in with a grinder.
 
^^^^ That or a bit of heat, bend to shape, some cheap and nasty rattle can gloss black, and call it done.
 
Hi,

I was in a similar situation after my wreck about two and a half years ago. One of the upper rear frame members was bent behind the shock mount.

frame_straightening51.jpg


Mr. Nessism came over to help me with it. We took the low-tech approach.

We secured the frame using a couple of 2x4s braced against a rafter in the garage.

frame_straightening52.jpg


DSC01909.jpg


Then we used a bottle jack to slowly bend the rear portion of that frame arm into place.

frame_straightening56.jpg


frame_straightening57.jpg


We kept at it until we got the desired results.

frame_straightening59.jpg



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
^^^^ That or a bit of heat, bend to shape, some cheap and nasty rattle can gloss black, and call it done.

Uh... i was going to add something, but after ogling at Flyboy's vid i lost my train of thought.
 
Learning while Ogling!!! (thanks FlyBoy)

'preciate everyone's input! I'll probably do something similar to what BassCliff and Nessism did in concept, except since I need to go in the opposite direction I'll remove left rear shock and wedge in a 2x4 there, then figure out a way to apply downward pressure on the subframe member.
 
Mike..wedge the 2X4 in and get a long ( 5 or 6 FT ) piece of pipe that will fit over the end. The length will give leverage to basically lean on the pipe and see if it tweeks it back down. If you can get a set of acetylene torhes for a few hrs, then heat it in that area as suggested before and this will make the tweeking that much easier. Know anyone thats in the HVAC bizz? They usually have those hand carry mini torch sets. MAPP gas gets hotter than propane and may do a good job as well.
 
Hey, my posts may not be tomes of knowledge, but at least they come complete with dancing girls. :D
 
Hey Chuck, that's pretty much what I came up with. I talked to me bro and he suggested the 2x4 trick as well. The hard part was trying to find something that would give me enough leverage and figuring out how to attach it to the frame. Amazing what you can do with baling wire and hose clamps! I ended up heating the tubing as well and pretty much nailed it the first try with the rig shown (though there were many previous attempt with other setups just as ugly which did not work). All by myself too, which was actually a bit concerning.

2012-02-05_13-28-15_870.jpg

The rig.

2012-02-05_13-28-32_306.jpg

Closeup of how the big reefer bar was attached.
 
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