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Urgent Help needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Plasterdog
  • Start date Start date
P

Plasterdog

Guest
I am offically the biggest idiot on this forum!!!!

I was drilling out the right side lower engine mount bolt 'cause it was locked solid and no amount of impact-driver, etc., was moving it one iota. So I'm drilling away and thinking, this is going a little too dee....what's that OIL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can imagine the rest of the language. plus the freaking enigine mount nut is still stuck. I don't phucking believe I was so phucking stupid!

HELP!!!!!
 
Would this work, taping the hole and using a slightly longer bolt to screw into the case thus sealing the hole?
 
The testimonials on the JB Weld package indicate it would fix that sort of thing. It'd be hard to get it up there without dropping any through on the other side which would probably be really bad too. Maybe it could be done with the head off?
 
Oh Plasterdog......I feel your pain.
Hopefully someone here can help you....
Ouch:cry: :cry:
 
your going to want to flush out any metal filings that got in there. once you do so, I suppose that cutting a bolt shorter, and getting it in really tight, and then jb welding the Sh*t out of it might work. it wont be pretty, but hey.


poot
 
I would drain the oil of course and clean all traces of it from the hole you drilled (long q-tips?). I would mix up a tiny amount of JB Weld, just enough to cover the drilled hole, and let it set a bit before applying so it would not drip through to the other side. I would let that set for at least a day, maybe two. I would then come back in with a thicker layer of JB over top of that and let that set for a couple of days. At this point your hole may not be as deep as it was so you may actually need a shorter bolt and perhaps some locktite to keep it secure.

As a last step I would put a rubber/plastic washer on the bolt where it enters the engine. If the oil does get past you JB patch it would still have to get past the washer. If the washer is the same thickness as your JB patch you might be able to keep the same bolt. Fortunately the GS oil circulation is low pressure. Your chances of keeping it in the engine would be good.

Now all of that assumes I have visualized your problem correctly. I could be way off the mark. How about post a couple of pictures and I'll bet one of the wizards on this site will know exactly what to do.

P.S. Defintely be putting that bolt back in with a torque wrench....carefully.
 
Last edited:
Poot said:
your going to want to flush out any metal filings that got in there. once you do so, I suppose that cutting a bolt shorter, and getting it in really tight, and then jb welding the Sh*t out of it might work. it wont be pretty, but hey.


poot
Click to expand...

Pretty, will not be a problem as it's not easily visable. It's not even easy to get at.
 
dpep said:
I would drain the oil of course and clean all traces of it from the hole you drilled (long q-tips?). I would mix up a tiny amount of JB Weld, just enough to cover the drilled hole, and let it set a bit before applying so it would not drip through to the other side. I would let that set for at least a day, maybe two. I would then come back in with a thicker layer of JB over top of that and let that set for a couple of days. At this point your hole may not be as deep as it was so you may actually need a shorter bolt and perhaps some locktite to keep it secure.

As a last step I would put a rubber/plastic washer on the bolt where it enters the engine. If the oil does get past you JB patch it would still have to get past the washer. If the washer is the same thickness as your JB patch you might be able to keep the same bolt. Fortunately the GS oil circulation is low pressure. Your chances of keeping it in the engine would be good.

Now all of that assumes I have visualized your problem correctly. I could be way off the mark. How about post a couple of pictures and I'll bet one of the wizards on this site will know exactly what to do.

P.S. Defintely be putting that bolt back in with a torque wrench....carefully.
Click to expand...

Er... the oil kinda drained already.:) :(

My first concern is how do I get the exsisting (remains of) bolt out without doing further damage. Then I can probably do as you suggest Don. I think the idea of "building" a JB weld "plug" going to be the best. But I know I'll be paranoid about it blowing one fine day. There again so could a thousand and one things on a 23 year old bike.8-[
 
I think I know which one you're talking about. Is the nut number 23 on this diagram.http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
You may have to pull the engine to do any lasting repair. How big is the hole? I think if it were my bike, I wouldn't just use JB Weld to fill the hole, unless it is REALLY small. I think you'd be better off to clean up the hole, and JB Weld a screw into place. I have my 80 1100E engine on a bench for cleaning right now so I have a pretty good view of the area. You may be able to see the inside of the hole when the oil pan is pulled. I would pull the oil pan just to have a look at what's in the area around the hole. Good luck with the repair.
suzuki_parts.htm
 
jpaul said:
I think I know which one you're talking about. Is the nut number 23 on this diagram.http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
You may have to pull the engine to do any lasting repair. How big is the hole? I think if it were my bike, I wouldn't just use JB Weld to fill the hole, unless it is REALLY small. I think you'd be better off to clean up the hole, and JB Weld a screw into place. I have my 80 1100E engine on a bench for cleaning right now so I have a pretty good view of the area. You may be able to see the inside of the hole when the oil pan is pulled. I would pull the oil pan just to have a look at what's in the area around the hole. Good luck with the repair.
suzuki_parts.htm
Click to expand...

Nut number 23 is the upper engine mount. The nut (apart from me) in question is 24, bolt 22. Dropping the oil pan is not going to get me closer, it's definately the lower half of the crankcase.

Anyone got a spare lying around, per chance????
 
Plasterdog said:
I am offically the biggest idiot on this forum!!!!

I was drilling out the right side lower engine mount bolt 'cause it was locked solid and no amount of impact-driver, etc., was moving it one iota. So I'm drilling away and thinking, this is going a little too dee....what's that OIL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can imagine the rest of the language. plus the freaking enigine mount nut is still stuck. I don't phucking believe I was so phucking stupid!

HELP!!!!!
Click to expand...

Okay, so why were you drilling it out? I understand that it wasn't moving but what harm was it causing? There's an acronym in the tech field, DFWAWM....................Don't Phark With A Working Machine!

Unless you were planning on pulling the engine you'd have been much better off with a frozen nut than with a hole in your crankcase.................

Good luck,
Joe
 
Joe Nardy said:
Okay, so why were you drilling it out? I understand that it wasn't moving but what harm was it causing? There's an acronym in the tech field, DFWAWM....................Don't Phark With A Working Machine!

Unless you were planning on pulling the engine you'd have been much better off with a frozen nut than with a hole in your crankcase.................

Good luck,
Joe
Click to expand...


I was trying to fit some case guards I'd bought on Evilbay. Otherwise I'd have never know it was frozen.
 
That really really really sucks.
It's a crying shame too because it looks like you were ontrack for getting that thing out.
 
Steve,

I have a product called HTS-2000 on hand, which might be perfect for this repair. Check out http://www.aluminumrepair.com for info and a video on how this stuff can be used in situations where conventional welding or heliarc don't work.

Assuming we can get the proper heat to the area in question we should be able to fill the hole and re-tap for the bolt. You WILL have to get the rest of the old bolt out in order for this stuff to work properly, but I suspect you can grind out the rest with a dremel once we've determined we can get heat to the area that needs it without damage to the surrounding area.

Let me know ... if need be I may have time this weekend to get you back on the road in time for the trip... This would be a more permanent repair than JB weld, although I've heard plenty of amazing stories about that stuff in a pinch... One other "cold weld" alternative would be the "roll" stuff you kneed between your fingers and press into place before it hardens. That stuff is pretty useful as well, and is sold by several manufacturers under differing names.

Regards,
 
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