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ut oh...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78GS1KNH
  • Start date Start date
7

78GS1KNH

Guest
I think im ready to throw in the towel on my 78 GS1000C. It has run into some serious mechanical problems... cyl#3 not holding compression due to blowby on the spark plug ( I'm guessing the previous owner stripped it, tried to fix it, but failed.)
The place that has the bike right now wants over $900 to install a heli-coil...

Does this sound reasonable? i understand that the heli needs to be installed on the underside of the head... but $900? Really?!

I'm at a loss for words today... It really feels like one thing after another with this bike. I'm at the point now though of, do i keep going, considering that I've replaced many major parts? Do I fix it and have it done? After all, I've only really invested about $1200-1300 including the initial purchase of the bike... another $900 on top of that would end up bringing the value up by at least that... NADA.COM shows the bikes value at $2500-5000 depending on restored condition... but seriously, how many people actually will pay $5000 for an antique?


I guess i just need some direction.
 
Not to mention the base gasket is leaking, but that would need to be replaced when the head comes off anyways... He warned me that the old engines like this one warp together with age. heating, cooling, heating, cooling, etc... Has anyone else had this problem with brand new base gaskets leaking shortly after being installed?
 
That's what they want to put in, needs to be installed from the underside of the head....
 
Not true!
Make sure that the valves are closed and the piston is down before carefully re-threading with the tool.
Blow out any loose dirt around the spark plug hole before threading and into the chamber after threading.

And use RED Lock-tite to secure the insert, allow to dry over-night.


Daniel
 
Forgive my lack of experience with this, but, isn't that area too hot for lock-tite?
 
Fixing a spark plug thread is easy work. No need to pull the head or anything. You don't want to use a helicoil, they tend to pull loose when removing the plugs. Get a solid insert thread repair kit commonly available at auto parts stores. They are easy to install and as long as you grease up the drill bit and tap while you are working most of the chips will be captured (and a few random chips won't hurt the engine any).

You have an old bike that is going to need work on an ongoing basis. I strongly suggest you learn to do the work or sell the bike and get something newer. Paying some monkey to work on the bike is a loosing proposition.
 
I could replace the whole engine with a good used e-bay special for $900. I can and have bought a complete parts bike with an engine needing minor repairs for $275.00. Fire your mechanic. He'll suck up that $900.00 and want $400.00 more for some other easy piddling little repair job. He looks at your bike and sees $ signs and easy money.
 
Napa also sells a spark plug thread reapir kit. As mentioned before, all you do is make sure the piston is down..retap the head with the supplied tap..locktite the insert and install it in the head. I did the cylinder on my 1000 c in about half an hour.
 
If you really want to do the job right find someone with a Time-sert kit. These are solid inserts that are expanded and locked into the head by mechanical means. You Tube has tons of videos on how to install this type of insert. Only problem is the installation tools are not cheap...about $150 (I think).
 
78GS1KNH said:
Not to mention the base gasket is leaking, but that would need to be replaced when the head comes off anyways... He warned me that the old engines like this one warp together with age. heating, cooling, heating, cooling, etc... Has anyone else had this problem with brand new base gaskets leaking shortly after being installed?
Click to expand...

Besides the warping being bogus, I'm confused

Did you already install a new base gasket, or are you thinking it will continue to leak if you do replace it

The base gasket leaks because it's old and has lost it's ability to do its job. It's often the "O" rings that leak, the rubber gets hard after 30 years.

I agree, your mechanic just sees you as dollar signs. Tearing down the top end of a GS 1000 motor is pretty easy if you have any wrenching experience. If not, now is a good time to learn. It will cost $300-500 for parts. a head gasket alone is over $100.

If you take the head off, you can take it to a machinist and get the plug hole fixed properly
 
78GS1KNH said:
Does this sound reasonable? i understand that the heli needs to be installed on the underside of the head... but $900? Really?!
Click to expand...

Not reasonable at all, it's a rip... You could do a complete top end rebuild for less than that.


78GS1KNH said:
After all, I've only really invested about $1200-1300 including the initial purchase of the bike... another $900 on top of that would end up bringing the value up by at least that...
Click to expand...

The bike's value has nothing to do with what you have spent on it.


78GS1KNH said:
I guess i just need some direction.
Click to expand...

Learn to do the work yourself or sell it to one of us. If you can't, get a newer bike, they are better for most folks anyway.



78GS1KNH said:
After all, I've only really invested about $1200-1300 including the initial purchase of the bike.
Click to expand...

No, you've spent $1200- $1300, huge difference. Maybe you've wasted $1200-$1300, it depends on what you do next.


Nessism said:
If you really want to do the job right find someone with a Time-sert kit. These are solid inserts that are expanded and locked into the head by mechanical means. You Tube has tons of videos on how to install this type of insert. Only problem is the installation tools are not cheap...about $150 (I think).
Click to expand...

That's cheap compared to paying this rip off shop that's got the bike now.
 
The time-sert kits are expensive, but long run it's by far cheaper then what im looking at... I think i'll be going with it. now- as far as gasket sets go, which brands do people recommended most? I see a complete kit, including valve guide gaskets for dirt cheap off ebay...
 
OE gaskets are the best. I used Athena before and the base gasket failed very quickly. The other gaskets are sufficient in general, but not as nice as the originals. If you are really pinched for money you can use an Athena kit, but make sure to change out the base gasket for OE at minimum.
 
Has anyone used the Z1 kit with good results? It's actually very reasonable priced considering it comes with valve stem seals and a lot of the little things I haven't found with other kits...
 
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