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V&H SS2R on GS700E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gargoyle081
  • Start date Start date
Gargoyle081 said:
PROGRESS !!


Ok well I have the header and midpipe on the bike.

I did stack on a 2nd set of gaskets and end up grinding the head of the oil line bolt down some but the bolt STILL touches the pipe.I was able to push the header on enough to get past the o-rings so I put on all the springs that hold the header to the sleeves.I really hate that it still hits......Will this end up being a problem after I ride the bike for a while? I dont know how much vibration there will be once the canister is held in place securely. What do you guys think? Also the brackets they give you with the exhaust can easily be made to work. The canister lines up with the stock holes in the rear foot peg brackets bit its a few inches farther. I think all Im gonna do is use a straight, flat piece of aluminium to reach forward. If its done that way you wont even see the bracket because the canister hides it all
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Yea, the sleaves that come with this pipe are a bit too short. Like I said, I had some longer ones machined to get around that problem. They did run me about $100 or so, but if you know a machinist he could probably cut you some fairly quickly out of leftover aluminum stock lying around. That would be the ultimate solution. If you decide to go that way, use fender washers to get an idea how much extension you need in order to clear that bolt. Like I said I my drawings are on a crashed hard drive, but (again) if memory serves correct, I added about a half inch.

Another option may be to weld additional length to the sleeve. That would be far easier. I couldn't do that because my ports didn't fit the existing sleaves.

It may work fine with that bolt contacting the header. I wouldn't do it, but I'm anal. Ask anyone who knows me. lol
 
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Im usually pretty anal about things, but for $100 dollars and in this particular case I would for-go messing with it anymore if I knew it wasnt going to cause serious damage over a period of time. I did put up a few pictures in my album. They arent the best pictures because it was dark out and I still havent made my rear bracket. The canister will be in the same spot as you see it in the photos. Ground clearance is tight...or so it looks to me. Anyone know the amount of travel in the 700's suspension? Measuring with the bike on its stand, the lowest pipe sits just shy of 4 inches
 
Gargoyle081 said:
Im usually pretty anal about things, but for $100 dollars and in this particular case I would for-go messing with it anymore if I knew it wasnt going to cause serious damage over a period of time. I did put up a few pictures in my album. They arent the best pictures because it was dark out and I still havent made my rear bracket. The canister will be in the same spot as you see it in the photos. Ground clearance is tight...or so it looks to me. Anyone know the amount of travel in the 700's suspension? Measuring with the bike on its stand, the lowest pipe sits just shy of 4 inches
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Then get an extension welded on. That shouldn't cost much and will give you the clearance you need.
 
Get the sag set up right for your weight at both ends and I doubt the pipe will touch down. Even with my short '88 front end I had to be hauling butt and hit some serious dips in the road to have my header hit the ground.

To set up sag get the bike on its centerstand, if you have one, then lift the wheel off the ground with something under the engine so the suspension fully extends. Measure how much distance there is between the lower triple clamp and the dust seal on the lower leg. Then with the bike on the ground and your weight in the seat take another measurement. You want to see maybe 1.25" of difference. Either use more air or some PVC spacers on top of the fork springs to get the sag set up. If you use spacers use a fender washer between the spring and the spacer.

Do the same process at the rear. At the rear you'll have to find two points to measure from, maybe the bottom edge of the seat to the axle. Then use the preload adjuster to get the 1.25" at the back. You can probably just set the damping adjuster at the 4th position since these old shocks probably don't have much damping left in them anyway.
 
Gargoyle, did you finish the install yet? If so do you have any pictures?
 
Sorry for letting the thread go stale for the past week...Things got a little crazy at work. I didnt get to play with the bike at all but Im hoping to be able to finish it up and get some pictres on here in the next few days :pray:. The weather has been decent and its killing thats she has been sitting.
 
Gargoyle081 said:
Sorry for letting the thread go stale for the past week...Things got a little crazy at work. I didnt get to play with the bike at all but Im hoping to be able to finish it up and get some pictres on here in the next few days :pray:. The weather has been decent and its killing thats she has been sitting.
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I thought maybe you had finished the installation and you were enjoying the bike so much you hadn't posted back.
 
:lol: Nah thats not my style. It would work the other way around...Id be done, and I would be in a rush to get the pictures up
 
You could try a small piece of leather between the pipe and the oil bolt for a little cushion. Some aramid or Nomex would be even better if you can get your hands on a piece.
 
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I do have access to Nomex(been a volunteer firefighter for 10yrs now) but honestly would feel like I was rigging it up if I did it that way. There is another bolt slightly around the oil pan from the one in question, do you know what that is for? The last time I looked at it I noticed this bolt and remember it being the same size (or very close). If they are the same thread I may be able to just swap the oil cooler line over to there. It should reach without a problem.......any input?
 
That side is the return line so as long as you can dump the oil back into the crankcase it should be okay to relocate the line. The bolt you are talking about doesn't happen to be on the oil filter cover does it? It's the only one I can think of that's about the same size. Maybe you could mark the corner of the banjo bolt that's making contact and grind a bit more off. As long as you can get a socket or box end on the bolt head for tightening it shouldn't hurt to take more off.
 
The only "right way" I can see installing this pipe is to have someone machine a longer sleeve for the cylinder creating the problem (as mentioned early on by one of you guys)....if I just grind away more of the bolt, the stiff springs that hold the header to the sleeve will just pull it farther on. Thus taking up any space created by grinding bolt. Option 2 may be to relocate the oil cooler return line. I wish I had more experience working on bikes in a case like this, but rest assured this thing is going on...


edit: Yeah dimpling the pipe isnt an option. With that said, a few MINOR adjustment by V&H and this header/pipe would make alot of GS owners very happy. Decent price, and a direct bolt on application.
 
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Looking at your photo of the area it looks like if you can turn the bolt just a smidge it gets the corner away from the pipe. That's just about the way my Duplex fits by the bolt.
 
Havent forgot about you guys... I dropped the bike off to a guy I know so it could be checked with a gas analyzer. He had a bike he was trying to get done with so it took a few days to get done. He gave me a call and said it checked out good on the meter. Now I have alot of faith in this fella cause he does a ton of clean good work on a ton of bikes, and has never charged me anywhere near what a shop would. Just thought it was a little odd being as everytime someone on here goes to a 4-1 they insist on a stage 1 jet kit. Again I have no questions as to the the guys work ethic, or quality on anything Ive seen him do. He told me today he just wanted to take a run on the bike tomorrow to make sure it stays smooth higher in the RPM's. He didnt have a chance to do that tonight.


To my knowledge I have stock jetting in my carbs besides the mains. Stock was 122.5 and for anyone that may remember me joining GSR a little over a year ago I wrote that I changed those to the 125's. I figured since I read that these bikes ran lean and the dealer didnt have 122.5's I would just put in the 125's rather than wait for them to be ordered.....What do you think???
 
So you got the pipe on? I had given the clearance problem some more thought and had come up with a tweak. I was going to suggest mounting the pipe then reaching under from the left side and tugging on the collector to see if you could get it off the bolt. If so you can give it a good tug and get it tweaked to stay. The midpipe can be turned to offset that minor adjustment.

Are you still running the stock airbox? That would help keep jetting close.
 
Well in the end the bolt got ground down farther and the bracket that was made was made of steel. Rather than using aluminium, the fella that does some of the work for me suggested the steel because the bracket could be made to put a little tension downward at he rear of the exhaust which ultimately helped with clearance at the front


Yes Billy the stock airbox is and will most likely remain in place just with a K&N filter installed. If I could get my hands on another good runner at a decent price, I might consider doing more mods to this one. Then the nice days and downtime wouldnt bother me so much, and I could get some much needed experience working on bikes.
 
Once you do the K&N you may find out you need the kit. It will flow more air and lean things out. When my bike was only about a year old I installed a Kerker and it ran fine until I started playing with the intake. You can always get the K&N and try it. If you find out you're running lean you can put the stock filter back in until you're ready to play with jetting.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I didnt think about it until after I posted. What I meant was I do have the stock airbox, with a K&N currently installed. When I got the bike the old filter was rotted
 
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