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valve adjustment question

  • Thread starter Thread starter ny_redneck04
  • Start date Start date
N

ny_redneck04

Guest
ok yes i know theres been alot a questions on here bout this but i couldnt find a answer to my question in the search option so here i go.

i preceded to check shim sizes using the zip tie method (worked great very easy) after that i set #ex lobe facing the front level with the head and checked #1 and#2 ex. clearance.my metric gauges go down to .02.i checked both and were tight.so then i thought am i suppose to slide the gauge all the way thru between the lobe and shim???? so i preceeded on to the intake#1&2 with the #1 in lobe facing straight up they were also to tight and couldnt slide the feeler gauge thru and the same for 4&3 ex and in so am i doing it right ??
#1 ex 2.70 #1 in 2.65x
#2 ex 2.65X #2 in 2.60
#3 ex 2.65 #3 in 2.70
#4 ex 2.60x #4 in 2.60x
 
Hi Mr. ny_redneck04,

Yes, when your .03mm feeler gauge slides all the way, back and forth, between the lobe and shim, you have at least that much clearance. If it doesn't slide all the way, back and forth, you have less than that much clearance.

Here's a video of the valve adjustment on a later model GS500, but it's the same shim/bucket two-valve motor technology. It'll give you a pretty good visual.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
The clearance reduces with mileage so it's common for the valves to tighten up to the point where you can not get a feeler gauge in there. Try dropping down a shim size and check clearance again. Sometimes it's necessary to drop two, or even three shim sizes if the engine has been neglected.

Hope this helps.
 
thanks basscliff thats a great video im just glad after seeing him use the tool that i used the zip ties

thanks ed i will go purchase some smaller shims i should be able to use some of the ones i have in some of the other buckets.not sure what the PO did with the bike but it came apart very easily and i even took off the carbs and airbox.i even got all the intake screws out lol.the intake boots are in great shap still very plyable and no cracks so im hoping it was taken care of properly by the PO
 
Sounds like you got lucky with your previous owner. :dancing:

Too many times there are only horror stories about them. :eek:

Yes, you should be able to move some of your shims around, but before you do that, be sure to have some extra shims on hand. It is best to not rotate the engine unless there are shims in all the buckets. In fact, many of us have a shim on hand that is several sizes too small. It is easier to slip a 2.50 shim in there and measure how much extra clearance you have than it is to keep guessing by dropping one size at a time.

.
 
ny_redneck04 said:
thanks basscliff thats a great video im just glad after seeing him use the tool that i used the zip ties
Click to expand...

Oh, I don't know. At first, the tappet tool would slip off and splatter me with a little oil once in a while. After a little practice, it's no problem at all. For some maintenance tasks, it's reassuring for me to use the tools, practices and procedures that the designers and engineers used. But that's just me. Many folks have had success using the zip tie method. If you're careful, you won't end up with a zip tie in your cylinder.

Kerry also uses a magnet to remove the shim. I don't think this is a good idea. If you magnetize shims they can attract metallic particulate matter and cause undue wear.

Once you've got all your shims inventoried, you can "guesstimate" and order ahead of time a few smaller shims that you might need for your next adjustment. Steve's spreadsheet comes in very handy for this.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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