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Valve adjustment questions...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I've never adjusted valves using shims before.

I'm trying to check/adjust the valves on my '82 650G & I don't have that special tool to depress the tappets to facilitate removing the shim. Is there a work around for this, or do I have to find one of those tools somewhere?

I called the Suzuki dealer and gave him the suzuki tool part number (from my factory manual) and was told that tool cost $125 !! :shock:

Is that right?? How are you guys removing those shims?

Also, is it better to set the clearances to the high side or low side of the limit? My specs are .001" - .003" for both intake & exhaust clearances. I believe I should try to set them at .003" because I think I read here once that the valve clearances decrease over time, is that right?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Mike
 
You need to get the tool. But not from the dealer :)

Here's one way cheaper. There's several other places that sell them as well.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

Says out of stock, but if you call you can get one on the way pretty soon I bet.

And you're right, set them to the high side if you can.
 
Last edited:
Actually after re-reading that tool doesn't list the 650. It sure looks right though. Call and check.
 
Thanks - Yeah, I saw that it didn't specify the 650, but maybe that's an oversight?

I'll give 'em a call.

Thanks again.

Mike
 
On my 81' 850 I just used a craftsman stubby flat blade screw driver and tapped it between the edge of the shim bucket and cam. Worked fine.
 
I'll bite my tongue on the stubby screw-driver idea. I'll also admit I've never done it and it could possibly work. Just be careful......you don't want to nick things up too bad.
 
The right tool for the job

The right tool for the job

Mr. hikermikem,

I would strongly recommend getting the shim tool (valve tappet depressor - about $15) from an online vendor like bikebandit.com, flatoutmotorcycles.com, z1enterprizes.com, or other. It takes some practice even with the tool. Plus the tool automatically holds down the bucket once you have it depressed allowing you to easily remove the shim. I can't imagine how much more difficult it would be without it. These 8-valve GS motors all use the same size buckets, shims (29.5mm) and shim tools.

I prefer the metric measurements, .03mm - .08mm clearances. Although it is hard to find a feeler gauge smaller than .04mm (.0015 inches). If you like, you can read about my adventure in valve adjustment. Or you can download the PDF file here.

Let us know how it goes.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I got that tool for $12.00 on eBay.
The tricky part of doing this for me was getting the new shims to fall into the buckets. They kept sliding out.
 
The proper tool is always the best option. But I didn't have it, didn't want to wait to get it. So I used the stubby screw driver. And it seemed to work just fine for me. It's much too soft to do any damage to the shim bucket or the cam. And it is against the cam shaft not the lob so a scratch wouldn't hurt anyway. Once tapped into place it held the bucket down for easy removal and replacement of shim. Again, the proper tool is always the best route. And, do not try this at home.... But I don't plan on buying the tool.
 
GLDIVER said:
The proper tool is always the best option. But I didn't have it, didn't want to wait to get it. So I used the stubby screw driver. And it seemed to work just fine for me. It's much too soft to do any damage to the shim bucket or the cam. And it is against the cam shaft not the lob so a scratch wouldn't hurt anyway. Once tapped into place it held the bucket down for easy removal and replacement of shim. Again, the proper tool is always the best route. And, do not try this at home.... But I don't plan on buying the tool.
Click to expand...

If you feel like it, post some pics sometime showing us how its done. I'll stick with my tool but it would be interesting (at least to me) to see what you're doing.
 
I would also echo the advice to work in millimeters instead of inches. Get a set of metric feeler gauges -- the potential for expensive confusion is far too great.

And use the correct shim tool -- it's only $15 - $20, fer Pete's sake! :roll:

BikeBandit now sells a set of metric feeler gauges that starts at .03mm. Dig around in their tools section until you find it.

You can get a metric set that starts at .04mm at any auto parts store, and that will work perfectly well too. If your valve clearance is below .04mm, you need to change the shim anyway 99% of the time. The .03mm gauge is only useful in those rare cases where the clearance just happens to be exactly .03mm.

Z1 Enterprises and Cycle Recycle II sell shims for $5 each. (Both also sell the shim tool and many other goodies besides.) Valve clearances tend to decrease slowly over time, so to minimize future downtime, document what clearances and shims you have, then order extra shims in the sizes that you might need next. Exhaust valve clearances tend to decrease faster than intakes.

http://z1enterprises.com
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com
 
valves

valves

try jcwhitney there cheap and quick on shipping. mine was 16 dollars for the same tool.
 
Valve adjust update...

Valve adjust update...

GLDIVER said:
On my 81' 850 I just used a craftsman stubby flat blade screw driver and tapped it between the edge of the shim bucket and cam. Worked fine.
Click to expand...


I bought a stubby screwdriver in a feeble atempt to remove the shims. I placed it next to the cam shaft over the shim bucket and said to myself, "this is a bad idea".

Now i own a new stubby screwdriver which I'm sure will see action on tasks OTHER than valve shim removal.

I ordered the tool from Z1 - due on Sat.

Mike
 
bwringer said:
... to minimize future downtime, document what clearances and shims you have, ...
Click to expand...
If you are interested, I have an Excel spreadsheet that will do this for you. 8-[

To minimize purchasing a bunch of shims that you might need, it's best to see what you actually need, and see if any of your existing shims (that need to be moved anyway) will fit. Many times, you can get by with only buying one or two shims. A couple months ago, I helped someone with their valve adjustment. 6 of the 8 valves needed adjustment, but by re-arranging shims, only 2 needed to be bought. \\:D/


.
 
Thanks steve, PM me that spreadsheet if you don't mind - can't hurt to have it & it might minimize the math errors I might make.

I've never done this with the shims, only experience i've had is with the TSCC 16 valve engines which use conventional adjusters.

I'm waiting to see what shims i have before I order new ones - i agree, the old switcheroo is a good idea, need the tool first so I can get those darn shims out for a look-see.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Spread Sheet

Spread Sheet

Steve,

Do you think you could send me a copy of that spread sheet? I received my valve adjuster tool a few weeks ago before vacation, and I am now planning to try the adjustment this weekend or next. \\:D/

Thanks,
Dirk

PS: Any GSR members in the Philadelphia burbs willing to help a newbie learn how to do maintenances on a 78 GS 750 E available this or next Saturday? :shock: I can supply Beer and food as desired for payment of your assistance. I am planning on adjusting the valves; changing the oil and filter; Drain, clean and replace fork oil; Clean, adjust, and oil the chain. ](*,)
 
hikermikem said:
I bought a stubby screwdriver in a feeble atempt to remove the shims. I placed it next to the cam shaft over the shim bucket and said to myself, "this is a bad idea".

Now i own a new stubby screwdriver which I'm sure will see action on tasks OTHER than valve shim removal.

I ordered the tool from Z1 - due on Sat.

Mike
Click to expand...

LOL! One can never have too many screw drivers Mike. In a pinch you can even use them on screws!! :wink:
 
mark said:
If you feel like it, post some pics sometime showing us how its done. I'll stick with my tool but it would be interesting (at least to me) to see what you're doing.
Click to expand...

I should have kept my mouth shut. Everyone is going to think I'm such a hack mechanic now ](*,)

I would be happy to get some pics next time but hope not to be in there for a while. It actually worked quite well, I thought..... If you hold the stubby screw driver vertically the tip of it just fits in between the cam shaft and the edge of the shim bucket. The edge of the screw driver is tapered so a few taps with a hammer and it forces the bucket down and holds it there. So you just put the cam lobe up out of the way, have the cut out in the edge of the bucket in a convenient location to lift shim out, slide screw driver on the edge of the bucket furthest away from you for working room, tap, tap, pull out old shim, slide in new one. I did all of my valves twice this way. Once to check what shim was in there, and again to install the needed shim to get my clearances correct.

After that I just duct taped the valve cover back on. Wrapped some bailing wire around it to keep if from falling off, poured the old oil back in, put some paint thinner in them spark plug holes just to git er goin, and drove off into the woods! :wink:
 
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