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Valve adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter NelanCustoms
  • Start date Start date
N

NelanCustoms

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i was about to do my valve adjustment when i read in the book that the tool is a different number than the one i got. i got MP 08-0017 and the book calls for a completely different number. i got the wrong tool or is there more than one?
 
I have no idea what the proper part number is, but it is a blade about 5-6 inches long, with a U-shaped piece on the end. If you go to BassCliff's website, download the valve adjust pdf, look on page 13, you will see the tool in action. Not a real good shot of the tool, but does show how it's used.


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lol i know what the tool should look like. i have a vavle adjuster tool but the part number is different from the repair manual's part number
 
NelanCustoms said:
i was about to do my valve adjustment when i read in the book that the tool is a different number than the one i got. i got MP 08-0017 and the book calls for a completely different number. i got the wrong tool or is there more than one?
Click to expand...

I know there are a couple of different manufacturers around that may have different part numbers. Yours is most probably a Motion Pro made one, see who sells them and compare the numbers.
I was looking for one, but just not worth the expense to ship all the way to the RSA and will try the cable tie method first.
 
The part no in the manual is SUZUKI's adjustment too. The one you have should work if it fits. Just make sure that your tool is only pressing down on the tappet and not the shim. There is another way to do it that Steve taught me if that tool ends up not working and youwant to know.
 
Well you have to be careful that you dont make the cam skip a tooth, and you'll likely need a helper, but if you losen the cam caps and lift them all the way up (up not out) you can have someone pick up the cam with a flat head screwdriver high enough for you to get the shim out. Steve and i used this method on his tutorial of a GS adjustment here, and it worked well, and actually seemed to work better than the tool itself on a couple of the tappets near the cam tower that the tool didnt seem to want to grab. As i said just be mind full that the cam doesnt rotate, tho it shouldnt with that lil bit of torque on it.
 
i've got a couple of slightly different tools but they work equally well
btw, on my 850 the camshaft has different diameters next to different lobes so the tool doesn't fit equally well to all the valves, but does the job anyhow
 
Thanks for the info, I was thinking about that method, but did not know if it would work. Is Steve's tutorial posted somewhere?
Thanks again
 
BTW you use the flathead as a lever, you dont actually try to pick the cam up with the screwdriver...just cock it up to lever the cam up enough to get access to the shim...didnt seem to make that clear enough. Made sense to me but Ive done it...lol
 
not that im aware of. He actually was here and showed me..lol
 
Matchless said:
Let me know how, as i cannot get a valve adjusting tool here - thanks!
Click to expand...

you can also use a flathead screwdriver to lever the valve follower - pressing the screwdriver against the camshaft (very much like with the special tool) and then use a magnet to get the shim out (you might need to pry it out with a small flathead first)
it's a one-man job, and faster than undoing all the camshaft bolts
 
That would prolly work too, the only thing to watch there is that the flathead doesnt gouge the tappet at all. Might even work better! Good call psy
 
I recall somewhere seeing a caution against using a magnet on the shims, possibly magnetizing them as they could then attract metal filings???

Has anyone used the cable tie method on a GS? Pushing a folded cable tie through the plughole and under the valve when fully open, then turning the engine and removing the shim. I recall a howto with pictures somewhere on another site. The author even claimed that it was quite quick and safe to do.
Edit: found it -http://www.imrisk.com/yamaha/xjwiretie.htm
 
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i can guarantee you this method is alot less of a PITA than that one...lol I have NO patience for fishing things into places they werent meant to go..lol I also remember now that you mention it Steve saying to never use a magnet on your shims for that very reason.
 
Yes, I agree its sometimes bad enough trying to get something in where its supposed to go!
Have you had a look at the "homemade" tool for this in the Haynes manual, they also have a picture but no details.
I have also found a German site that gives the exact dimensions for the tool to make an EXACT clone of the Suzuki one! Thats if you have the time and a machine shop.
I added the link to the cable tie one in my previous post, it has some nice pictures of that procedure.
 
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psyguy said:
you can also use a flathead screwdriver to lever the valve follower - pressing the screwdriver against the camshaft (very much like with the special tool) and then use a magnet to get the shim out (you might need to pry it out with a small flathead first)
it's a one-man job, and faster than undoing all the camshaft bolts
Click to expand...
NEVER USE A MAGNET!!!!!!!!!!
 
ALL RIGHT, never use a magnet...
use a small flathead to pry the shim and a pair of long nose pliers to take the shim out
it's still much easier than any other method described

there's actually a funny tv ad here at the moment where the guys at the car garage lift the car on a hoist and dismantle the engine from underneath to get to a faulty spark plug...
:confused:
so, yeah, there are ways about things :?
 
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