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valve lapping need or not need

  • Thread starter Thread starter Addy Leung
  • Start date Start date
Personally, I think you got a bad valve job. I would go back to the guy and tell him to fix it or refund. When a valve job is done right you should be able to poor gas in the port and it should not leak past the seat. Whether you get to that point by regrinding or lapping doesn't mater but that is where you need to be. I wouldn't put the engine together like it is. It is true they would probably seat themselves eventually but I am not willing to wait 5 or 10K mile for this to happen and for the motor to finally run right. It is not going to idle correctly and you run the risk of burning a valve with the leakage. Incompetent machinists infuriate me. They are everywhere. They know what is right, they just don't want to spend the time to do it. They will always take the time to collect your money though. Go back down there with the head, and attach a tag to it that says "fix this correctly, I have 6 more heads" and throw it through the front window late at night.
 
I thought you didn't lap Suzuki valves because they had a hardend surface material that can be ground away with lapping compound. And once this material is gone, valve wear is rapid.

Is this not so?
 
no, they are stock valves. When I get it from the seller, it was installed with 28.5 and 24 S/S valves I think. I found "F05" marks on in-take valves and "F07" on exhaust valves.
the exhaust valves seem to be more hard than the in-take valves.

One thing I learn is that do not lap the each valve too long time to make the valve seat width too large. as state in the manual it should be only 0.9mm to 1.1mm.
My first valves lap too long and make it have 1.9mm width valve seat.
 
Didn't the 16 valve GS 1100's come stock with Stainless steel valves. It seems I remember people buying & installing aftermarket stainless valves, thinking they were getting a better valve, when actually they were just swaping stainless for stainless.
 
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