• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Valve lapping question

  • Thread starter Thread starter sihi
  • Start date Start date
S

sihi

Guest
Hi. I a was today first time lapping valves actually 1 valve.This valves was not servicing last 25 years. It take 2 hours to do one valve with classic lapping stem and I am still not sure if is good enough , because on valve is very tiny black spots which I can't get off. Valve seat is perfect. Is it necessary to have perfect shiny valves or like this is enough. Amount of time spent on one valve try my patience to border. Exist any quick seal test without mounting spring ?

20160511_220210.jpg
 
Hi. I a was today first time lapping valves actually 1 valve.This valves was not servicing last 25 years. It take 2 hours to do one valve with classic lapping stem and I am still not sure if is good enough , because on valve is very tiny black spots which I can't get off. Valve seat is perfect. Is it necessary to have perfect shiny valves or like this is enough. Amount of time spent on one valve try my patience to border. Exist any quick seal test without mounting spring ?

View attachment 45513

I use a lapping tool that has a suction cup BUT has a piston and a knobbed rod you pull out and it holds the work very tightly. The body is round and you can put the tool between your palms and it makes fast work of the lapping. You can also buy different grit compound.

The valve you show shouldn't have the black spots which appear to be pitting as this valve won't seal as well with a cleanly lapped surface without the spots. If I had that valve, I would media blast it with fine bead and see if I could get some of that stuff out of the sealing area. If you buy new valves (I would if the surface can't be made right), make sure to measure the lengths for spec... they often need tipped to be within spec.
 
Lapping is a process to remove very slight imperfections in the valve and seat. It is not to recondition the parts. Lapping should take 2 minutes, not 2 hours.

Your photo shows deep pitting in the valve, AND it looks like you have been heavily lapping the valve into the seat because it looks like a ridge has form. This is not good.

I recommend that you find a shop with a "centerless" valve grinding machine and have the valves dressed. Every good automotive machine shop should have this kind of equipment. After the valve face is cleaned up be sure to have the valve stem tip ground too otherwise you may find the valve shims are all going to be too thin. This only takes a couple of minutes each valve so the shop shouldn't charge too much.

Good luck.
 
Ed, what does the "centerless" mean?

Tom, it relates to grinding where the piece is not held tightly in a chuck. It sort of floats between two different wheels.

grinding-process.jpg


 
The guy that made that video did my valves. He did it while I waited and only charged me a few bucks. After seeing how sweet they turned out I now have the valves ground as a matter of course when redoing a head.

BTW, check out that guys You Tube videos. Lots of super cool stuff.
 
Ed, as usual, is correct

When you lap a valve, the contact area on the face should only be 2-3mm wide, not the entire face as in the picture

you may need a new valve, which may be cheaper than 2 machinings
 
I measured face and is 1.89mm. Here in Norway is nothing cheap. I have to find another solution or just live with it. I find microscopic scratches on stem I am sure I cleaned everything really good . 20160512_063523.jpg
 
is that enough to buy new one?
 

Attachments

  • 20160512_063656.jpg
    20160512_063656.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 0
I run today leakage test only for that valve which I was lapping so long. I filled up exhaust with gasoline. After 15 min. nothing totally dry . After 4 hours was very slightly wet but no any dripping or leakage. Since is my first test I really appreciate any comment on that results.
Thank you to everybody
20160512_214222.jpg
 
Last edited:
Should be fine. If anything it will seal a little better after it runs a while.
 
Back
Top