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valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 92G
  • Start date Start date
9

92G

Guest
Well,

After having done a better job at torquing the head bolts, 2 of the shims were out of spec high and low. I swapped 2 to fix one, but the other wasnot swappable with its "opposite" so to speak, i.e. the valve that had its cam lobe at the rght position for being measured. So, I found that the one that was high out of spec, was 2.55mm. I found another one that was 2.60mm. So, I removed the 4.55, and started to rotate the cam to I could get it to the place where I could remove the 2.60mm. Being the cautious dog that I am, I carefully watched the cam with the missing shim as it was comming around.

Right now its at a point where it looks like its going to bind on the tappet if I rotate it any farther.

Will it hurt the cam or tappet if I rotate it all the way through with the shim out?

If so, is the only way out of this mess to remove the cam and insert the shim? Can I rotate the cam in reverse and try to get back to square 0(this seems like a bad idea)?

Thanks,

Terry
 
Lever the shim bucket down with a shim tool, a large Phillips screwdriver, or a similar tool bearing against the edge of the bucket and the are of the camshaft next to the lobe, and carefully rotate the engine. This will take three to five hands but should work.

If the cam chain tensioner is healthy, it won't hurt anything to rotate the engine backwards. Just be careful, don't force anything, and make sure you rotate it forward a few turns after you take care of the problem.
 
bwringer said:
Lever the shim bucket down with a shim tool, a large Phillips screwdriver, or a similar tool bearing against the edge of the bucket and the are of the camshaft next to the lobe, and carefully rotate the engine. This will take three to five hands but should work.
Click to expand...

I can only get a little depression on it when the cam meets the tappet. I think this will work, but it will take an extra set of hands, and possibly a few steps to get the cam past the tappet.

Assuming I get through that, what's the proper way of getting to shims that are not in phase with the one that needs to be improved? I think that if I swap the the shims I'm trying to get at, all will be good.

Thanks,

Terry
 
Ok,

I managed to get past that problem, and I figured out to swap them around. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I have the right combo to get everthing straight, so I guess I make a trip to the dealership tomorrow.

Terry
 
Re: valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

92G said:
Well,

After having done a better job at torquing the head bolts, 2 of the shims were out of spec high and low. I swapped 2 to fix one, but the other wasnot swappable with its "opposite" so to speak, i.e. the valve that had its cam lobe at the rght position for being measured. So, I found that the one that was high out of spec, was 2.55mm. I found another one that was 2.60mm. So, I removed the 4.55, and started to rotate the cam to I could get it to the place where I could remove the 2.60mm. Being the cautious dog that I am, I carefully watched the cam with the missing shim as it was comming around.

Right now its at a point where it looks like its going to bind on the tappet if I rotate it any farther.

Will it hurt the cam or tappet if I rotate it all the way through with the shim out?

If so, is the only way out of this mess to remove the cam and insert the shim? Can I rotate the cam in reverse and try to get back to square 0(this seems like a bad idea)?

Thanks,

Terry
Click to expand...
This serves as a reminder to ALWAYS follow the factory procedure when adjusting valve clearances.
It sounds like you're checking all the clearances with the cam lobes pointing straight up?? This will give inaccurate reads and it takes longer too.
 
Re: valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

KEITH KRAUSE said:
This serves as a reminder to ALWAYS follow the factory procedure when adjusting valve clearances.
It sounds like you're checking all the clearances with the cam lobes pointing straight up?? This will give inaccurate reads and it takes longer too.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm checking them with the lobes straight up. That's how the Clymer manual instructs on how to do it. How does the factory procedure say to do it? If its not too much trouble....

Thanks,

Terry
 
Re: valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

92G said:
KEITH KRAUSE said:
This serves as a reminder to ALWAYS follow the factory procedure when adjusting valve clearances.
It sounds like you're checking all the clearances with the cam lobes pointing straight up?? This will give inaccurate reads and it takes longer too.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm checking them with the lobes straight up. That's how the Clymer manual instructs on how to do it. How does the factory procedure say to do it? If its not too much trouble....

Thanks,

Terry
Click to expand...
No problem, but I'm lazy tonight.
Check out the most recent post about checking the clearances.
In the tech section, find the topic: "Valve clearance measurement questions". Check out member "ptm's" reply. It's the only accurate way to do the job.
 
Re: valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

Terry, the factory proceedure is to rotate the crankshaft until the T mark is aligned on the 1-4 crank sensor and the notch on the right end of the intake cam is pointing rearward and the notch on the exhaust cam is pointing forward. The notches in the cams must be aligned with the surface of the cylinderhead. In this position you can check the valve clearances on intake and exhaust of #1 cylinder, exhaust of #2, and intake of #3.

Then turn the crankshaft 360 degrees to bring the T mark into alignment for the 2,3 crank sensor. The notch in the intake cam will now be pointing forward and the notch in the exhaust cam will be pointing rearward. The notches must be in alignment with the cylinder head surface. In this position, you can check clearances on intake and exhaust on #4 cylinder, exhaust on #3, and intake on #2.


Earl


92G said:
Yes, I'm checking them with the lobes straight up. That's how the Clymer manual instructs on how to do it. How does the factory procedure say to do it? If its not too much trouble....

Thanks,

Terry
Click to expand...
 
There you go Terry. That sounds even quicker.
I should have paid better attention to what model you have, which is the whole point of my first reply. The factory procedure can be different or the procedure has "improved" from how Suzuki describes the valve clearance check on my bike and PTM's.
If you can, get a factory Suzuki manual for your bike.
 
I usually replaced the shim temporarily with a suitable coin if I have to switch shims from bucket to bucket.

They are soft enough not to damage the lobes when You rotate the cams.

Swedish 5 crown coins are my favourite!
 
I did a hack job.....

I ended up marking a few cam lobes b/c i was a retard and turned the crank with some shims out...... .. dont do a job at 2 a.m.....
 
Re: valve shim adjustment part 2, serious question

earlfor said:
Terry, the factory proceedure is to rotate the crankshaft until the T mark is aligned on the 1-4 crank sensor and the notch on the right end of the intake cam is pointing rearward and the notch on the exhaust cam is pointing forward.......
Click to expand...

That certainly produced different results. Now I have 2 that I can't get in spec...:(.

Oh well, off to cycle re~cycle...

Thanks for the help.

Terry
 
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