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Valve shim removal 1978 GS1000

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Guest

Guest
Once more, I go to the GS brain trust for salvation . . . this is my first valve clearance check. I've identified the out-of-spec valves, the first being the #1 intake and with Motion Pro Suzuki tappet depressor in one hand, wife's eyebrow tweezers in the other, I . . . I . . . can't seem to finesse the tappet down/shim up-and-out maneuver. I've hooked the tappet depressor underneath the camshaft and with my dimming eyesight attempted to line up the raised ridge with the edge of the tappet.

Couple problems. I'm sort of hacking around the camshaft with the tool trying to get it lined up. Are my ham-handed efforts likely to damage anything? The other problem is the clearance seems to have gotten tighter as an effect of my blundering about. I've turned the crankshaft forward a few revolutions, but now the tappet doesn't turn easily as at first when I try to line up the groove in the tappet for shim removal.f

I've been through all the threads on shim replacement but I'd welcome any advice on the fine points of this maneuver.

Thanks in advance,

Jack
 
I just did this on a 78 GS1000 yesterday. Once you get the depressor close enough you will see it drive the shim bucket down. Prior to doing that however make sure you have the slot in the shim bucket facing out so you can pry the shim up. Press it down and use a small fine tipped screw driver to pry up the shim then grab it with a small pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out.
 
I just did my valves for the first time on my 79 850, it must be close to the same as yours. One shim came out right away, the other I first lifted up with a small screw driver which I then placed underneath the shim, while I pushed from the other side of the cam on the shim with another screw driver. That let me get a good grip with the needle nose pliers. I'm no expert that just worked for me. Good luck.
 
One more thing. The valve depressor tool has a ridge on it right? That ridge goes next to the bucket and allows you to easily depress the bucket while still able to get the shim out. Sorry if this is too obvious, it took me a few tries to figure that out too.
 
You need to drive the shim bucket down as far down as it will go and 'lock' the tool in place. The Motion Pro tool seems to be designed to hold itself once in position (something no homemade tool can do).

After that, I use a pick with a curved point (screwdriver handle) to get under the shim and a long and skinny tweezers to get it out. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. Never rotate the cam with shims out - it will eat your camshft alive.

Ace.
 
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