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Valve shims

  • Thread starter Thread starter wishy
  • Start date Start date
W

wishy

Guest
Is it fairly common for all the valves to be tight? 2 are at.06 rest of them I can't get the .03 gauge in. I don't know any maintenance history on the bike, may have never been done. 1 broken bolt on the cover :mad:

Chris
 
wishy said:
Is it fairly common for all the valves to be tight?
Chris
Click to expand...

Yes, very common. The valves tighten with mileage and after too much neglect all the clearance goes away and the valves hang open and burn.
 
Sorry for the doom and gloom with my first post. As Sharpy says, if the buckets still turn then that means that there is at least some clearance remaining. That typically means you can get away with moving one shim size smaller from what's in there now. I'd be ready to move them two sizes though. And when you pull out the shims to look and see what's installed, be careful to not turn over the engine with any shims missing or the cams will bet damaged.
 
Well I had it running when I reinstalled the carbs. Seems to hit on all 4 just fine. Just doing the valve adjustment cause I always adjust the valve clearance when bringing a bike out of long term neglect. More frustrating than the valve clearance is the one broken bolt. I am going to get a gauge that goes to.01 and see if I can measure any clearance just to simplify the shim swapping. I assume a little loose is still better on a GS just like any other.

Chris
 
Yes, looser is better. Some of us actually go beyond the 0.08mm spec out to 0.10mm, but don't tell anybody. :-\\\

.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Once you've completed the valve adjustment you'll have to resync the carbs.
Click to expand...

Have not synced the carbs yet. Was waiting to get the valve adjustment done. I also need to check the timing since I put the Dyna S on. Have to get the broken bolt out still. It is above the gasket/head level enough to get ahold of it. I keep soaking it with kroil and waiting for it to surrender

BTW the buckets all turn so still have some clearance.

Chris
 
Last edited:
wishy said:
BTW the buckets all turn so still have some clearance.
Click to expand...
I have heard that myth before and have seen it to be NOT true. :-k

I had a bike in the shop for a valve adjustment. Feelers would not fit, buckets still turned easily. Had to drop TWO shim sizes. :-\\\

.
 
The valves are definitely to tight. I was just glad to see they had some clearance. Broken bolt finally gave up. Gonna get after the valves on my next day off.

Chris
 
I have the same issue with a 550T that I recently purchased. Can't get a feeler in to make any measurements at any valve, but all of the buckets still spin. I would just get the shim to give me the .08mm (or .10mm:devilish:) clearance? IE 2.75 to 2.67?
 
Vales adjusted now, had one of the little rubber plugs come out when running the bike. Any correct method to install them? I figured it must have slipped out part way when I was installing the cover. Seems like there should be more holding them in. I assume the open side goes toward the cam. They would rub on the cam if not.

I noticed that #4 seems like it isn't running on initial start up. Seemed to get to work after a minute or so. Might have something going on there.

Special tool for getting to carb sync locknut on the center 2?

Chris
 
wishy said:
Vales adjusted now, had one of the little rubber plugs come out when running the bike. Any correct method to install them? I figured it must have slipped out part way when I was installing the cover. Seems like there should be more holding them in. I assume the open side goes toward the cam. They would rub on the cam if not.

I noticed that #4 seems like it isn't running on initial start up. Seemed to get to work after a minute or so. Might have something going on there.

Special tool for getting to carb sync locknut on the center 2?

Chris
Click to expand...

1: The recommended method is to put a small amount of RTV sealer on the round half of the rubber plugs.

2: If you're having issues with one of the cylinders not firing at first, then you need to check your carb sync.

3: The best way to get to the #2 carb sync nut and screw is to remove the choke bracket from the top of the carb. That allows you access to the screw from up top. Here's a link to a great tool that helps as well:

http://www.carbtune.com/carbtool.html

Sometimes you can find them state side but they also sell one of the best sync tools, the Carbtune.
 
Thanks. I stumbled on the carb tool thing while searching the interwebs. I am not to worried about the one lagging cylinder. I still need to set the timing after the Dyna install and sync the carbs. Slow and steady it will get done. I checked the compression just for fun and it is even across all 4 155psi.
 
Timing is set, carbs are synced, and if I had a fuel tank ready I could ride it. Good thing the weather forecast is so bad for so long!

Is there a quick way to make sure the cam chain tensioner is good? I have a noise at idle that I think sounds like cam chain is slapping. However I don't know if they screw up much on these. Looks like a pretty simple spring tension set up to have any trouble.
 
1st thing to do on the cam chain tensioner is to make sure the lock screw on the left side is not tight. Loosen the nut and see if you can screw it in 1/2 turn or so. Back it off and tighten the nut again

Many people think the screw needs to be tight

You may have to "rebuild" the tensioner, as the seal is now over 30 years old. Naturally, there's a tutorial on the Basscliff site on how to do it right
 
Good for you on the bolt, some patience and luck go a long way with these old bikes. Sounds like you know your way around wrench.
 
When you check the tensioner setscrew and back it out, be careful. Only back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, NO MORE.

If you back it out more than 3/4 turn, the end of the screw is out of the notch in the tensioner rod that will keep it in the proper range.

.
 
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