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Valve to piston interference

  • Thread starter Thread starter doctorgonzo
  • Start date Start date
Couple quick questions for all:

I still have to button up a couple things (like bleeding brakes, rechecking all the fasteners, etc...) before it's road worthy. I should not run the engine anymore until I can take it out and run it under load correct?

I put 4 quarts of oil in it, this was a complete disassemble (except splitting cases), dropped the oil pan to get all the crispys out, everything, and now after the engine has run and oil has gotten to the top end, it looks a bit low. Normal to take over 4qts on a fuill rebuild?

Like I said it only ran for about a minute, the top end wasn't crazy loud, or making weird noises, but a pretty good tick in there, like the sound of the lobe engaging the valve. Fairly normal... likely to quit down with a few more minutes of running? I did use assembly lube.

I have to admit to being pretty proud today. First time EVER to have the head off a bike, so to hear that thing fall right into a smooth idle was an awfully good feeling.
 
Top off the oil to the middle of the window with the bike standing straight up. Take it out & ride it for a hundred miles, varying engine speeds & loading on the motor. Bring it home, let it cool off overnight, change the oil & filter, re-torque the head, adjust the valves if needed & go ride it! Ray.
 
doctorgonzo said:
I put 4 quarts of oil in it, this was a complete disassemble (except splitting cases), dropped the oil pan to get all the crispys out, everything, and now after the engine has run and oil has gotten to the top end, it looks a bit low. Normal to take over 4qts on a fuill rebuild?

Like I said it only ran for about a minute, the top end wasn't crazy loud, or making weird noises, but a pretty good tick in there, like the sound of the lobe engaging the valve. Fairly normal... likely to quit down with a few more minutes of running? I did use assembly lube.
Click to expand...

Are you sure all the valve clearances are adjusted correctly?

Read this before you continue running the engine.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Rode it 10 miles to the gas station and back, ragging the hell out of it (well kinda, no shifts over about 7500). Once warm it ran pretty crappy, popping on decel like crazy, time to bust out the manometer and sync the carbs, probably plug chops in my future too. Carbs set up for my old 1000 top end with marginal compression.
 
rapidray said:
Popping on decel is lean on the needles & possibly the mixture screws also. Ray.
Click to expand...

I'm not surprised. I was fighting a rich condition on the old engine so probably moved the needles, and I know the misture screws were fiddled with repeatedly. The plugs were actually sooty when I parked it, but I know that could be the time idling as I parked.
 
It's the needles. Took it out for another hard 15 miles to day, and it actually runs really good EXCEPT between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle where it starts to pop and breakup. I found a major DOH! in that I forgot to tighten the screws on the intake manifolds that are there for carb sync when I installed the head. I tightened them and hoped it would help, but no go. Gonna put 20 or so more miles on it then take it down to readjust valves, retorque head, sync carbs, and go ahead and adjust those needles.
 
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