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Valves again

  • Thread starter Thread starter metalman
  • Start date Start date
M

metalman

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Excel doesn't work on my pc so am doing this mentally:eek: here is what I've figured so far but havent come up with a shim number on #2 intake and the ones that are .10mm figured would be better a little loose than tight. Am I even close or do I need to switch from coffee to alcohol? Thanks for looking Ray.
 
Are those .00x numbers supposed to be .0x? And do you know who adjusted the valves last time? It's very unusual to see such a large clearance on so many valves. The valve clearance typically reduces with use, not increase.
 
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Well, I'm assuming that where you have .009, for example, you actually mean 0.09, as in mm. The valves usually wear tight. If you're loosening up I'd have to wonder why? Maybe there's build-up on the valve seats? Might want to plastigage the cam caps.
 
Either I'm reading it wrong or you are doing it wrong. If your clearance is too big, you need a thicker shim, not a thinner one.
 
Oops I'm bad am working with metric and American feeler gauges will redo and re post numbers.
 
OK new numbers in mm #1 ex. .10mm #1 int. .06mm #2ex. .127mm #2 in. .05mm #3ex .10mm #3in. .05mm @4ex. .07mm #4 in. .10mm loose. Did all measurements with feeler gauges and then used calipers to verify. Hope this makes more sense.
 
Here's the new sheet. If I'm reading this right only two to be replaced. Sorry pic is not diagonal will reload if need be.
 
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Looks like you are in pretty descent shape, maybe swap the one with .127mm clearance for a slightly thicker shim. Ray
 
Ghostgs1 said:
Looks like you are in pretty descent shape, maybe swap the one with .127mm clearance for a slightly thicker shim. Ray
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Went blonde for a moment there:confused: So the .127mm 280 shim should be good to go with a 285 shim? Thanks Ray.
 
I'd spin the engine over a few times and then recheck that .127 valve. A 285 shim is very rare, and completely out of line with the other shims. There is likely something wrong holding the valve open.
 
Nessism said:
I'd spin the engine over a few times and then recheck that .127 valve. A 285 shim is very rare, and completely out of line with the other shims. There is likely something wrong holding the valve open.
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Ed.
The 285 shim was actually a 2.77 and was replaced with a worn 285 after spinning motor maybe five or six times the clearance came to a loose .10mm . There is carbon in the top end but is better than last time the valves were done 130 wild miles ago. Before doing the valves the first time I dumped a 1/2 can of sea foam in the tank and rode for grand total of 14 mi. the bike was dangerous. So began the restore and no more Sea Foam. The top of pistons looks to have slight carbon still but not that bad. Do you still think something is holding the valve open?
 
metalman said:
Excel doesn't work on my pc so am doing this mentally:eek:
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I know that the reason you are trying to use Excel is because of my spreadsheet. :o

You can get a free program that will open Excel files, then let you edit and save, just like if you actually had Excel. Go to OpenOffice and download your own copy. If I remember correctly, even our own computer guru, BassCliff, uses Open Office. :D

.
 
Steve said:
I know that the reason you are trying to use Excel is because of my spreadsheet. :o

You can get a free program that will open Excel files, then let you edit and save, just like if you actually had Excel. Go to OpenOffice and download your own copy. If I remember correctly, even our own computer guru, BassCliff, uses Open Office. :D

.
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Right you are, but as long as I don't get out of bed on the retarded side can do the math in head. Although sure with OpenOffice there will be no brain farts to deal with.:cool:
 
metalman said:
Right you are, but as long as I don't get out of bed on the retarded side can do the math in head. Although sure with OpenOffice there will be no brain farts to deal with.:cool:
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You can even use GoogleDocs to open Excel spreadsheets. Most of the time it doesn't mess up the format
 
BigD_83 said:
You can even use GoogleDocs to open Excel spreadsheets. Most of the time it doesn't mess up the format
Click to expand...

Thank you. Gonna have to do one or the other. Though after getting the bike the PC and other things haven't seemed as important as long as no malware usually no problem. Got to have priority's straight.
 
metalman said:
Right you are, but as long as I don't get out of bed on the retarded side can do the math in head. Although sure with OpenOffice there will be no brain farts to deal with.:cool:
Click to expand...
The only thing you really have to remember is that in METRIC, your range is 0.03 to 0.08 mm and the shims will change it by 0.05 mm, which is the entire range.

If you measure in INCHES, the range is 0.001 to 0.003", and the shims will change it 0.002, which is still the entire range.

The only exception is the use of "X" shims, which are about half-way between the full sizes.

.
 
Steve said:
The only thing you really have to remember is that in METRIC, your range is 0.03 to 0.08 mm and the shims will change it by 0.05 mm, which is the entire range.

If you measure in INCHES, the range is 0.001 to 0.003", and the shims will change it 0.002, which is still the entire range.

The only exception is the use of "X" shims, which are about half-way between the full sizes.

.
Click to expand...

That all sounds good as a rule of thumb, but some of my shims are either X or just plain worn as they measure in between. IMO If you can't afford or won't use calipers you don't need to be working on your machine. On another note am happy to have not waited two hundred miles to redo the valves as the 300 we had in the #1ex. was tight enough that couldn't fit a feeler gauge so swapped #1 in. to a 265 and have 10mm clearance. Am thinking carbon build up is pretty much gone but if not the bike will let me know when to recheck valves. On yet another note if you still have the same Locktite throw it away as the nut on cam chain tensioner you took apart to check my rebuild fell off, glad I was paying attention.:cool:
 
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