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slyone
Guest
The tach is soooo sluggish to respond/move? I did check the cable, it's free and installed new seals while I was at it.
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Have you had the valve cover off in the last little while?
Has the tach response changed (i.e. was it good before)?
You might not have engaged the gears properly when you took the valve cover off, if it is setup the same way as the 650. Also, thicker valve cover gaskets can cause problems with the tach drive gear.
Has the tach response changed (i.e. was it good before)?
You might not have engaged the gears properly when you took the valve cover off, if it is setup the same way as the 650. Also, thicker valve cover gaskets can cause problems with the tach drive gear.
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koolaid_kid
Guest
Did you clean and lubricate the tach cable while you were inspecting it?
Seals will keep it from leaking oil.
When you say "sluggish" I would think that means that it doesnt move quickly, does move, but moves slow. But, does it ever get to where it should? If it is slow to get there but does get there I would suspect problem inside the tach and try some lubracation (carfull not too much and get it on back side of glass).
If it never gets there or bounces around, I would suspect problem with cable. You said it was free, but not say if it was complete and intact (can pull it out of the sheath from the bottom to inspect).
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It sounds like the lubricant on the needle's pivots has thickened up over the years. More than likely you'll need to open the tach, clean the old oil off and re-lubricate it.
I doubt introducing an oil via the tach's cable connection is going to do much good if any.
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slyone
Guest
Wow, nice pics Rusty. Maybe I can post a video to utube? The needle response is wammered! lets say I bring it up to 3k then release throttle to idle...you can count to 5-10 maybe as it slowly returns (same increasing rpm's), it seems like it would be a bad electrical part or a worn out clutch of sorts? Does it all simply unbolt apart?
No, it's all crimped or staked together, from the lenses bezel to the pivot's bracketry.
The way I prefer opening a tach, is to wrap masking tape where the tach's plastic housing meets the bezel to protect the plastic and carefully un-crimp the bezel with screwdrivers, taking three or more sessions of prying it open to fully un-crimp and remove the bezel. Then it's a simple matter to use a small amount of a light oil such as 3-in-1 to clean and lubricate each pivot point. (I use clock oil)
Your tach is a mechanical one, not electronic.
The way I prefer opening a tach, is to wrap masking tape where the tach's plastic housing meets the bezel to protect the plastic and carefully un-crimp the bezel with screwdrivers, taking three or more sessions of prying it open to fully un-crimp and remove the bezel. Then it's a simple matter to use a small amount of a light oil such as 3-in-1 to clean and lubricate each pivot point. (I use clock oil)
Your tach is a mechanical one, not electronic.
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slyone
Guest
Oh what fun! lol check my points post in ignition..TIA!
Points and condensers you can do in your sleep...
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slyone
Guest
just wondering what was wrong with factory ones and what to buy? I want to do this today
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koolaid_kid
Guest
Z1 Enterprises carry reasonably priced sets.