VM 26 Carb Rebuild GS 1000

[Vmass]

The last Suzuki carbs I rebuilt were the BS series from a GS 1000. That went well and was actually quite simple.

These VM carbs seem to have more parts and are a little more detailed. The BS tutorial was highly detailed, which was a huge help.

I am using the tutorial from this site, which is great, bit not as much detail as the BS tutorial.

I am sure I will have additional questions, but I will start with two:

1) Does the slide and needle assembly need to be disassembled or will a spray and wipe down do the job?

1a) Any holes to clear in the above mentioned needle?

2) The fuel T's do not have O-rings like the BS series.....can these T's and connectors be reused, or should new ones be used? If new ones are needed, does anyone know part numbers and a source?

Thanks!

 

[Nessism]

The slides/needle assembly can be left alone. Just make sure there is no varnish on the outside of the slides and needles.

Every passage goes somewhere so make sure the spray is coming out somewhere. Choke tubes are prone to clogging, just like the CV carbs.

Assuming the coating is still soft and pliable you can reuse the fuel tubes. Some models of those carbs have O-ring style tubes, so finding a set of those is an option. Z1 sells aftermarket versions too (as do others).

Some day I'll go though a set of VM's and make a tutorial. Just haven't gotten around to finding a set yet. VM's are pretty easy to work on though so maybe it's not needed. You are plenty skilled enough to deal with them Rich. No worry and good luck.

 

[portdave]

Ed,
I may have an extra set of VM carbs to let you do the rebuild on....I really like the CV one you made.

 

[Vmass]

Thanks Ed..............I'm on it! The fuel tube rubber does seem to be pliable, so I will reuse them.

The carb boots are actually in remarkable shape as well. However, as soon as Z1 is restocked, I will get a new set.

The main jets are 121.5's, I have new 95's from Z1, as I am going to start with the stock setup. I hope all the other parts are stock.

Inside of the carbs are very clean.

 

[Nessism]

If the boots are soft I'd reuse them, after installing new O-rings of course.

Soaking the fuel tubes in gas causes the rubber to expand. Some people report leaks that clear up after a couple days. Maybe give them a couple days of soaking before doing the final carb assemble?

 

[Vmass]

After looking at the main jets again, they appear to be 127.5.

I can't quite make out the pilot jet numbers, which ends in a 5.

 

[Vmass]

I sure do like removing the float bowls on VM's more than I like removing them on the BS's. Seems the pins on the VM's are not pressed in and slide out effortlessly.

 

[tkent02]

I sure do like removing the float bowls on VM's more than I like removing them on the BS's. Seems the pins on the VM's are not pressed in and slide out effortlessly.

Yes, I think the pressed in pins on the CVs was an EPA thing. I have always made my CV pins loose enough to slide in, they work just fine that way.

Either chuck them in a drill and file the shoulder down, or there is a common nail available in exactly the right diameter.

 

[chuck hahn]

Polish them with some 000 grade steel wool and see if you can get numbers..between all 4 you should be able to piece it together..theres only 3 numbers you need to find.

 

[chuck hahn]

Tom..a few twist with the finger and some 320 sand paper loosens them up in the holes nicely too. Doesnt take but a few thousands and the slide right in easily.

 

[tkent02]

What can I say, Chuck? I like power tools!

 

[chuck hahn]

Well then maybe a number size drill bit and ream the post holes???

 

[tkent02]

Then you would have to put the pin in the right way, as the two ends of th pin would still be be different diameters. Sounds way too hard.

 

[chuck hahn]

Nah..drill it straight thru..the bowls recess will hold them in once its on. Same as the VMs do.

 

[tkent02]

OK, Chuck. I'll stick with my drill.

 

[Vmass]

Carbs went back together well. The 127.5 mains have been replaced with 95's. All other parts seemed fine.

I did not put the throttle bracket in place, prior to racking the bank of carbs to the mounting bracket. I had to remove carbs, and put throttle bracket in place and then reassemble. I did not see that in the VM carb tutorial but maybe I missed it....no big deal.

After reassembly, I did see one thing that concerns me.... the fuel T between #2 and #3 has a small gap where it is inserted into carb #2. I don't recall if it was a tight fit, prior to disassembly.

I loosened everything up and tried to slide the carb over a bit but that did not change anything. Everything else seems straight and positioned properly.

 

[twotimeGSr]

I'm no expert, but I would make sure all of the ridge rings on the tees are well secured in the housing... with no gap if possible. I tried to re-use my old style tees and never got them to reset without leaking. Replaced them with the new style and they worked fine.

 

[Vmass]

I'm no expert, but I would make sure all of the ridge rings on the tees are well secured in the housing... with no gap if possible. I tried to re-use my old style tees and never got them to reset without leaking. Replaced them with the new style and they worked fine.

The ridge rings are certainly in far enough to make the proper seal.

But, replacing them is probably the right thing to do. I will put the carbs aside, move on to another task and order the new fittings in my next Z1 order, or I my look on eBay, since I already have the new 0-rings.

 

[chuck hahn]

some do get just a small gap at the shoulders..long as the orings are in and the seating bsurfaces are clean and smooth youll be fine. I run a twisted up ball of steel wool down all the holes.

And especially make sure the choke plunger holes are spotless. Hanging plungers are the very last thing one thinks of if they run rich and nothing seems to solve the problem...until you discover a hung up plunger.

 

[Vmass]

some do get just a small gap at the shoulders..long as the orings are in and the seating bsurfaces are clean and smooth youll be fine. I run a twisted up ball of steel wool down all the holes.

And especially make sure the choke plunger holes are spotless. Hanging plungers are the very last thing one thinks of if they run rich and nothing seems to solve the problem...until you discover a hung up plunger.

Thanks Chuck,

All components were dipped and sprayed. Ed suggested soaking the T and connectors in fuel, which I did.

Since I have time to order, ( although, I would prefer not to separate carbs again) I may go ahead and replace the fittings.

I am flip floppin on this one!