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VM26SS slide assembly issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter silverbullet132
  • Start date Start date
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silverbullet132

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Can't get the 2 screws at the top of the slide assembly off. Put on some deep creep and letting it sit overnight. Any suggestions if that does not work?

Is drilling the screws out a bad idea? Anyone got specs on them?
 
silverbullet132 said:
Can't get the 2 screws at the top of the slide assembly off. Put on some deep creep and letting it sit overnight. Any suggestions if that does not work?

Is drilling the screws out a bad idea? Anyone got specs on them?
Click to expand...

I would not consider drilling.
 
Tried a small imact driver? With the correct tip for the JIS screws?

They shouldn't be hard to get at all unless some bonehead before you used LockTite or something.
 
Is it possible to get the individual slides out without removing the whole assembly? Am planning on the pine sol soak to clean the carb bodies (with slides removed)

Do not have an impact driver or JIS bits, do not want to mess them up. Also, any cheap source for carb boots?
 
undo and remove the clamp bolts on the slide levers, that clamp them to the main shaft. remove the locating screw and little plate inbetween carbs 1 and 2 and slide the whole shaft out. then all the slides will pull out of the carbs, complete with levers.

you will need to undo the clamp bolt on the throttle cable linkage as well
 
The screws are M3-14. Dremel a slot in the top and then use a straight screwdriver, then replace with allen screws.
 
Sometimes old fuel and crud jam the screws. You don't want to heat the slides to soften the crud because there may be the nylon washers on the needles. so heres the end around so you CAN heat then screws and soften the crud up inn then threads...


Take a soldering iron and touch it to the screw heads and heat just the screw itself.
 
Got it out. Turns out the 2 screws I wanted to take out were un-needed for disassembly. Removed the one that held on the throttle link tube (?) that was stuck by filing it down for removal with a 8mm socket.
 
Oh also, on carbs 1 and 3 the spring under the pilot air screw is a bit longer vs the ones in 2 and 4. Any reason? Does it matter?
 
Check the pilot fuel screws and see if the two short ones are there
 
Big T said:
Check the pilot fuel screws and see if the two short ones are there
Click to expand...

Just checked them and 1,2,4 have longer springs with 3 having a shorter one. Here is a pic to demo the size difference:

DSC_0291_zpsfe759ded.jpg


Also, are these marks on the bottom of the slides normal? Two slides have them though slightly different:

DSC_0292_zps466067cf.jpg
 
silverbullet132 said:
Just checked them and 1,2,4 have longer springs with 3 having a shorter one. Here is a pic to demo the size difference:

DSC_0291_zpsfe759ded.jpg


Also, are these marks on the bottom of the slides normal? Two slides have them though slightly different:

DSC_0292_zps466067cf.jpg
Click to expand...

The long skinny springs are for the fuel needles

The short fat ones are for the air needles

The slide indicates that back firing has been occurring
 
Big T said:
The long skinny springs are for the fuel needles

The short fat ones are for the air needles

The slide indicates that back firing has been occurring
Click to expand...

That would mean I have one extra long spring. Should it just be replaced? Is that even possible without ordering one of those un necessary rebuild kits?
 
silverbullet132 said:
That would mean I have one extra long spring. Should it just be replaced? Is that even possible without ordering one of those un necessary rebuild kits?
Click to expand...
Have you checked all eight springs?

You should have four of each.

The "marks" on the bottom of the slide do show evidence of some backfiring, be sure to check your valve clearances. Tight clearances (the typical scenario) will delay closing of the valves, and will also keep them from transferring heat to the head, causing them to burn easily.

.
 
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