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Warm up time on 85 GS550

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jbeaber
  • Start date Start date
J

Jbeaber

Guest
Hey guys-
So, I have an 85 GS550EF. Once the bike is warm it runs like an absolute dream. But it seems like it takes forever to get warm. What are people's typical warm up times? I ride it in the morning, temperature probably in the high 40's. It starts up immediately every time, full choke. It will be idling low for a while, then shoot up to 4K, I lower the choke and it repeats the cycle. After 4-5 minutes I start riding and it surges for another few minutes and I continue to lower the choke. Since it isn't 100% warmed up when i get started, it also dies some times when I give it gas. Am I just impatient or is there something I need to fix?
 
Sounds lean as Dave says. You might have an air leak some where in the carbs. Have you done any cleaning or rebuilds recently. You likely need to do the o-ring thing (i.e. see the carb tutorial). You also may have some leakage through your aircleaner box. These puppies don't like air leaks.

I just started my GS 15 minutes ago in 40F weather . On choke for 4 minutes (decreasing from 4000 rpm about every minute or so)then choke off and idling at 1100 rpm. Twist the go tube and revs all the way up with no stumbling.

These bikes seem to be cold blooded so i wouldn't say your bike is anything out of the ordinary but do check for air leakage.

Good luck and let us know if anything pops up.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
My wifeee's GS550ES is by far the cold bloodedest bike I've ever been around. The previous owner warned me about it before we baught it. Like he said, in the mornings, get it started, go in shower, shave, eat breakfast, then the bike will be ready to go. If I ever get around to taking the carbs off, I'll go up a couple of sizes on the pilots. That was a normal thing, around here, for the 750's, 1000's, & 1100's, back in the early 80's. It should work for the 550's also.
 
the behaviour is normal for your engine
same symptoms have always affeted mine from day one.

start it then drive it on part choke then shut the choke off after 3-4 minutes.
 
you guys crack me up. I love it. I noticed that I have not successfully stopped a small fuel leak out of the carbeurator fuel bridge (stupid design, in my opinion). I replaced the O-rings on the bridge, but that doesn't seem to have done the job. any ideas on a gas resistant solution to make sure that there is no extra space for gas to leak out of? While I have the bike apart to that degree, i will likely play with the idle air screws to reduce the amount of air at idle to richen the fuel mix. I like the bike but man does it ever take its time getting to full operating temp.
 
Probably a result of mine running rich right now (jetting per instructions from dynojet after pods installed) but I can not start it for 2 days go out there, give it 1/8th throttle, hit the switch and it roars to life with no choke. Hope on with no warmup and take off down the road. My problem is a wandering idle after it warms up (got a bid in on a Morgan Carbtune) and a tendency when warm to stall out when going from throttle to idle quickly (like a quick stop in traffic).
 
make sure your pilot jets are the right size.. and that your fuel air mix screws are turned out...

if you put in a dynojet ket they are usually close to spot on. I had problems that the PO had put in the next size up in pilot jets... everytime I stopped at a red light I smothered the combustion with too much fuel... ran like a dream though when i was railing through the corners.

if you have the full on stage 3 kit set the fuel air mix screws to 1 and three quarters turn out and slowly increase till it starts idling rough... then back it off to just as it smooths out... That should be pretty good if not perfect.
 
skreemer said:
make sure your pilot jets are the right size.. and that your fuel air mix screws are turned out...

if you put in a dynojet ket they are usually close to spot on. I had problems that the PO had put in the next size up in pilot jets... everytime I stopped at a red light I smothered the combustion with too much fuel... ran like a dream though when i was railing through the corners.

if you have the full on stage 3 kit set the fuel air mix screws to 1 and three quarters turn out and slowly increase till it starts idling rough... then back it off to just as it smooths out... That should be pretty good if not perfect.
Click to expand...

I'll try that the next time I pull the tank. Dynojet had me set them to 2.5 turns, I later backed that down to 2 turns as I was fighting sooty plugs. Now I think the sooty plugs were weak spark from the cracked wires and old factory coils. I'm also going to check voltage at the coil next time the tank is off. I have a new wiring harness and new coils, but I had to solder the old connector from the factory coil on to plug into the harness, I could has a loss at my crappy solder job or that old connector. Might do the relay mod at some point as well.
 
Jbeaber said:
Hey guys-
So, I have an 85 GS550EF. Once the bike is warm it runs like an absolute dream. But it seems like it takes forever to get warm. What are people's typical warm up times? I ride it in the morning, temperature probably in the high 40's. It starts up immediately every time, full choke. It will be idling low for a while, then shoot up to 4K, I lower the choke and it repeats the cycle. After 4-5 minutes I start riding and it surges for another few minutes and I continue to lower the choke. Since it isn't 100% warmed up when i get started, it also dies some times when I give it gas. Am I just impatient or is there something I need to fix?
Click to expand...

I had the same situation on my GS1100G when I got it last year. Replaced the old cracked intake boot o-rings bought through a fellow GSR forum user and it's like night and day. Problem solved! Starts up in 5 degree weather with full choke, immediately reduce choke to 3/4 or 1/2 to idle at 1500-2000, and after a usual unattended 5 minute warm up in cold weather take off.
I used to have to stand there for 5-10 minutes nursing it between 2-3k rpm to get it warmed up and it would still sputter and fart for the first few miles before fixing the o-rings.
 
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