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Was happy, now bummed.

  • Thread starter Thread starter pistolpete
  • Start date Start date
P

pistolpete

Guest
So i ordered a Honda rr from Duaneage got it yesterday. Installed it today, hooked my dvom to the bike and started it and it was charging at 14.8 volts and not the 20 volts that it used to. I was so happy I took a pic of the dvom and I was going to take it for a spin even though it was raining. Well now the bummed part. Usually before i ride i make sure all the lights work and thats when I noticed the brake light was on. After some poking and tracing wires I think I found the problem. I think the front brake switch is bad. I took the switch apart and I have voltage at both terminals. I really love this bike but sometimes she's a pain in my butt.
 
Screws

Screws

You probably just needed to loosen the 2 phillips screws and adjust the sliding plate.;)
 
I hate it when my 28 year old vehicle needs maintenance.:(
 
Welcome to the world of antique motorcycles!
Sounds like a minor, if just one more problem.
Hopefully for you, it'll be your last for awhile.
As for me I'd rather ride than wrench, but to
tell you the truth I've been chasing minor gremlins
out of mine.
I hope someday to have a "carefree" motorcycle!
 
Ya i guess I keep forgetting how old she is. I just realized the newest vehicle i own is my 21 year old truck.
 
My newest vehicle is my modern 1991 F150, only 20 yrs old. You need to get some newer stuff
 
The RPM was 5,000. The old rr was one that i bought from electrosport, witch didn't work, at 5,000 RPM i was at 24 volts.

You might just want to check what the voltage is at 5K RPM with the sense wire connected right to the battery.

The R/R should nominally be at 14.5V, 14.8V is not too far off unless teh R/R really is trying to regulate at 14.25V or lower.

Dirty connections leading to voltage drop at the sense point will force the R/R to charge at a higher voltage. It would be nice to keep that to within a few tenths.

So a back to back test with the sense at the battery and at your brake light connections would measure the actual voltage difference.
 
HA lol. actually the newest vehicle i've ever owned was my 2000 focus, I ended up turning it into a race car.
 
you might just want to check what the voltage is at 5k rpm with the sense wire connected right to the battery.

The r/r should nominally be at 14.5v, 14.8v is not too far off unless teh r/r really is trying to regulate at 14.25v or lower.

Dirty connections leading to voltage drop at the sense point will force the r/r to charge at a higher voltage. It would be nice to keep that to within a few tenths.

So a back to back test with the sense at the battery and at your brake light connections would measure the actual voltage difference.

i do have the sense wire hooked directly to the battery. I did have it connected to the brake wire but i thought that that was the reason my brake light was on so i switched it directly to the battery. When i get home from work i'll go through and recheck for bad connections.
 
i do have the sense wire hooked directly to the battery. I did have it connected to the brake wire but i thought that that was the reason my brake light was on so i switched it directly to the battery. When i get home from work i'll go through and recheck for bad connections.

Main thing is to measure your voltage drips as per the stator pages except do it at 5K rpm
 
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