Weak spark could it be the coils?

[koolaid_kid]

Just to add a bit about the coil relay mod: a correctly implemented mod will raise the voltage at the coils to about 14.5V at 3k RPM.

 

[jave101]

No the sender forgot to mention that on the package, not real pleased.

This measurements were taken with the engine off and the battery at 12v. Like I said I can't start the bike just yet. But once I get the gaskets I will be testing when the bike is running.

 

[Steve]

This measurements were taken with the engine off and the battery at 12v. Like I said I can't start the bike just yet.

If you actually verified that the battery was at 12 volts and saw 11.5 at the coils, I would not worry about "the mod".

.

 

[Guest]

+1 on what Steve said... I get around that on mine and no issues whatsoever with spark.

Is the sender going to do anything about the gasket? That's really poor form on his part not to mark the package appropriately.

 

[jave101]

Ok well hopefully it will be all good.
If he has another gasket in stock he will send it for free if not then a refund. Pretty good of him.

 

[Guest]

Good stuff, at least he's doing the right thing!

 

[jave101]

Ok so a bit of an update. Got the inlet gaskets installed so no vacuum leak. Took it down the street and it can't get past around 5000rpm. I did a plug chop while it was bouncing around 5k and left hand plug is a nice caramel colour. But right hand is black and carbon fouled.

I assume this is a sync issue as both plug aren't the same. I've also jumped from a stock 110 main jet to a 130 which maybe too rich.

 

[Steve]

First of all, ... you can't assume, you have to MEASURE.

Carb sync has very little effect at 5000 RPM. You will notice a mis-synched carb most at idle, not so much at 5000.

Since one of your plugs looks good, why would you ASSUME that you have the wrong jets?
Yeah, the 130 might be too rich, but you apparently haven't had a chance to get into the upper RPM range at wide open throttle to check that yet.
With pods and a pipe, I would probably look in the 125 range, but your "mileage" may vary.

Swap plugs, see if your dirty one cleans up in the other cylinder, and the clean one gets dirty. That will confirm that the problem is not the plug itself.

What are you mixture screw settings?

Have you done plug chops on the pilot and needle circuits?

.

 

[Guest]

Also, if you're hitting a wall at 5000RPM, you might want to make sure your advance mechanism is moving freely too. It needs to spin freely and spring back quickly to be working correctly.

 

[jave101]

I've swapped the plugs over and it's still the same. I pulled the points plate off and inspected the advance governor. It springs back just fine but when I put my strobe light on it to test it as per the manual (set it to idle over 3,600rpm) it doesn't advance all the way to the advance marks, just about half way between the advance and normal timing marks.

Also the timing light won't fire on the right hand side cylinder for some reason. Might be a weak spark as the bike will idle fine on left hand cylinder just fine but dies when I try to run it just on right hand cylinder. I'm not sure what this means but the timing not advancing all the way worries me.

I've found a website that sells the dyna kit with coils for $160 so I'm considering buying that, just want to make sure that it will solve the problem but I'm not certain that is the only problem.

 

[tkent02]

What maintenance have you done to the points?

Cleaned them?

Adjusted them?

 

[jave101]

Brand new points set them with a multimeter and timing light.

 

[tkent02]

How is the dwell? Or did you use a feeler gauge?
Timing is only half of it.

 

[jave101]

I used feeler gauges and set the points gap at 14 thou.

 

[Guest]

Are you 100% sure the timing is right? Not advancing all the way to the advance marks is going to cause issues. Either it's binding enough to prevent full advance, it's not timed right so it starts off too retarded, or possibly it even has the wrong springs on there.

One thing with the Dynatek kit is that it still relies on the stock advance mechanism, so if that's not working right then the Dynatech won't work right either.

 

[jave101]

I use the mark I've circled to line up the F marks for the timing. Is this wrong? the manual says to use other marks inside the inspection window but im pretty sure there isnt anything in there to line up with.View attachment 18543

 

[Guest]

If memory serves correct you should be using a T mark not an F mark... I think... man I hope someone confirms this! I get myself all confused with these...

 

[tkent02]

T is TDC, for cam timing. The F is where it should fire when it's not advanced at all. Rotate the big points plate to set timing on one set of points. This is done after the points gap or dwell is set.

And then the other set of points is timed the same way by moving the smaller plate.

 

[old_skool]

T is TDC, for cam timing. The F is where it should fire when it's not advanced at all. Rotate the big points plate to set timing on one set of points. This is done after the points gap or dwell is set.

And then the other set of points is timed the same way by moving the smaller plate.

Exactly, I think you're setting the points and thinking all that is left is hit it with a timing light, you have to do what Tom is saying here first, which is called static timing, basically when those points you gapped will start to open, when setting the gap, you just want to set them where the cam on the rotor opens them the widest, then set your static timing with the F mark, this was posted by someone here before, rather than find it, I saved a copy in pdf, I'm just going to copy/paste it here for you to read, save it for future use. This will cover replacing points and setting them up.

Installing and setting points
There is no difference between installing a Dyna electronic ignition and setting points and condensers. If you can do one, you can do the other. If you are having trouble with one, you will have the same trouble with the other. Learn to set the points and condenser ignition first. You will have to learn the process regardless. Here's the procedure for timing the 750. The points are located under the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft. The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock. Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12 o'clock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 o'clock screw is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws. We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 o'clock position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4. Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator. The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to 14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire. Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and re-tighten hold down screw if needed. Rotate crankshaft until right side points are at widest gap (for cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and re-tighten hold down screw on points if needed. THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS Next is the timing: Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points).................... With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing window and align the mark that looks like F1| with the timing mark on the engine case.
(the line following F1 is the mark (|) note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen through the timing window) Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or battery negative terminal. Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch ignition to on) The continuity light should be on. Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out. Re-tighten the 12, 4, and 8 o'clock screws on the breaker plate. Unclasp continuity lead from left pointset. For the Right pointset Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case. Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset. The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on. The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate. You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light to flicker out, that's what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders 1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset. Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate. SOoooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out. Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike..

edit;
Ahhh, found it, this was posted by earlfor in tips and tricks section, he had found it in another forum

 

[jave101]

I have done this process using a continuity tester on my multimeter and then verified it using my timing light.

My question is am I supposed to be lining up the F mark with the notch I circled in the photo in my previous post. This is the only marking I can find to line everything up against.