weak spark/no spark

[qwqb]

Hey guys,

to make a long story short, recently I seem to be getting a weak spark and sometimes no spark condition.

When turning over the engine, I either get a weak orange spark, or no spark at all.
Is a certain condition indicative of this?

I'm guessing the igniter because it happens on all cylinders, is this a safe bet? How much would it cost to replace?

Thanks!

 

[blowerbike]

igniter from me for your bike=50 bucks plus shipping.
there may be someone around here that will just give you one for the shipping price.
post something in the classifieds under "wanted items".
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there are several models that take the same igniter as yours..
it would be nice if you could find someone local to let you plug there box and see if it fixes your problem.

 

[tom203]

Could be igniter, but could also be low voltage to coils and igniter due to weak battery or corrosion in wires. Check voltage during cranking.

 

[qwqb]

battery voltage is good, i charged the battery beforehand in order to rule that out of the equation. Is there a ground other than the main ground that could be of concern?

 

[rustybronco]

Measure the coil secondary resistance, with and with the spark plug end caps. then measure each end cap. what are the values?

 

[tom203]

Try a different ignition fuse, just in case. I'm unsure about ignitor box grounding issues,maybe Bassclift will descend soon.

 

[blowerbike]

igniter does not need grounded.

 

[Guest]

igniter does not need grounded.

But there is a wire coming out of the ignitor that goes to ground.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

What is the voltage at the coils? What is the battery voltage as you are cranking? Have a look at THIS PAGE and the troubleshooting tips.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I had the same problem. My right sparkplug was either very weak or had no spark at all. It turned out that I had dirty electrical connections. Clean the electrical connections at the coils and the igniter. Or better yet, clean the entire wiring harness.

 

[qwqb]

Both coils measure 4 ohms across them. The left coil has 9.8V provided to it, and the right coil has 0.1V provided to it, which is obviously a problem? What would cause that?

 

[blowerbike]

But there is a wire coming out of the ignitor that goes to ground.

GRRRRRR
that was not the question

 

[Guest]

Both coils measure 4 ohms across them. The left coil has 9.8V provided to it, and the right coil has 0.1V provided to it, which is obviously a problem? What would cause that?

Orange and white wire has .1V at the right coil?
That could be a problem.
Melted wire, broken wire or a short

 

[tom203]

My understanding is that both coils share a common + feed thru o/w wire as long as ignition is powered- the ignitor fires the negative coil sides per signal generator pulse. Connection to this coil must be damaged, if you can get 9.8 volts to other coil - assuming you're measuring to same ground point.

 

[posplayr]

My understanding is that both coils share a common + feed thru o/w wire as long as ignition is powered- the ignitor fires the negative coil sides per signal generator pulse. Connection to this coil must be damaged, if you can get 9.8 volts to other coil - assuming you're measuring to same ground point.

both of the O/W wires that go to the two coils are connected to the same point in the harness. Not only is the one low, but th other must have come loose .

Take the tank off and peal back the electrical tape till you find the crimp. Clean and solder it check the do the same with the crimps at the coil.

 

[qwqb]

hmm thanks guys, i'll check into that when i get home today

 

[qwqb]

Ok so here's tonight's update. It seems that the orange/white wires are fine. I checked for continuity between them at the coils, and it checked out fine, which led me to believe that it was the black/yellow wire coming from the coil that had 0V across it. I went and checked at the igniter itself, and at the ignieor there was still 9.8V between the orange/white and the white, and 0V between the orange/white and the black/yellow. Could the issue be stemming from the igniter itself?

 

[Guest]

The O/W wire goes through the kill switch to the coils and then to the ignitor. The ignitor does not supply power to the coils via the O/W wire.

 

[posplayr]

Ok so here's tonight's update. It seems that the orange/white wires are fine. I checked for continuity between them at the coils, and it checked out fine, which led me to believe that it was the black/yellow wire coming from the coil that had 0V across it. I went and checked at the igniter itself, and at the ignieor there was still 9.8V between the orange/white and the white, and 0V between the orange/white and the black/yellow. Could the issue be stemming from the igniter itself?

the outputs of the ignitor ground the negative sides of the coil to get current to flow through the coils. When they open up is when the coils fire. So when the negative side of the coil equals the high side of the coil the ignitor is open.

 

[qwqb]

so you're saying its normal to have the 0V reading across the coil then.