Weird clicking noise when clutch is pulled

[Guest]

Hi guys n dolls, been a minute since I was last here. Got a new issue .. After changing a rear tire, I've noticed a light clicking noise in my drivetrain in one set of particular circumstances. It goes like this: when clutch is pulled in (only goes 2/3 to 3/4 in), and slowing down for a stop, with slight tension on the drivetrain, I have an occasional clicking that will coincide with "twig in the spokes" kind of feeling. I am wondering ... When changing the rear tire, I allowed the swing-arm to drop all the way down, after disconnecting the shocks, leaving me wondering if I might have broken a cup on my universal joint? Does anyone know if the rear swing-arm will drop far enough for the universals to be damaged? And, if so, is it a bear to repair those universals? I've not looked at it much, just looked at the clutch behind the casing, was hoping to find a loose bolt, but it wasn't that easy , so my current plan: bleed you guys for knowledge and digging in further, but does anyone have any experience in this? Thanks! The ride in question is a 1979 GS850.

 

[bwringer]

No, the swingarm won't drop far enough to damage the u-joint.

You might want to peel back the U-joint boot between the engine and swingarm and make sure all four bolts are present and tight and that there's no play in the bearing and the seal isn't leaking. It's not unknown to have a failure in the secondary drive; basically the tip where the flange is bolted on breaks off and the u-joint flange can flop around on the splines. That wouldn't bear any relation to your tire change, but might as well rule that out.

Next, investigate the rear brake to make sure it isn't binding and that all the hardware and the pads are in the correct position.

I'd also check to make sure the rear wheel bearings are OK and that you didn't accidentally lose that spacer that sits inside the final drive. And make sure the other spacers are in the correct positions.

As you rotate the wheel, feel for any oddities in the gears in the final drive.

While the wheel is off, check that the swingarm can move freely and that there's no play in the bearings, and check that the bolts securing the driven spline inside the wheel haven't backed out

I can't recall any cases of shaftie u-joints failing, so that's pretty unlikely. In any case, the u-joint is integral with the driveshaft, so you'd have to replace the driveshaft. A good used one isn't hard to find. Replacing it involves removing the swingarm, but it's all pretty straightforward and easier than on a chain drive GS.

 

[Brendan W]

when clutch is pulled in (only goes 2/3 to 3/4 in),

Could you expand on this, is the lever coming back to the handlebar?

 

[Guest]

No, the swingarm won't drop far enough to damage the u-joint.

You might want to peel back the U-joint boot between the engine and swingarm and make sure all four bolts are present and tight and that there's no play in the bearing and the seal isn't leaking. It's not unknown to have a failure in the secondary drive; basically the tip where the flange is bolted on breaks off and the u-joint flange can flop around on the splines. That wouldn't bear any relation to your tire change, but might as well rule that out.

Next, investigate the rear brake to make sure it isn't binding and that all the hardware and the pads are in the correct position.

I'd also check to make sure the rear wheel bearings are OK and that you didn't accidentally lose that spacer that sits inside the final drive. And make sure the other spacers are in the correct positions.

As you rotate the wheel, feel for any oddities in the gears in the final drive.

While the wheel is off, check that the swingarm can move freely and that there's no play in the bearings, and check that the bolts securing the driven spline inside the wheel haven't backed out

I can't recall any cases of shaftie u-joints failing, so that's pretty unlikely. In any case, the u-joint is integral with the driveshaft, so you'd have to replace the driveshaft. A good used one isn't hard to find. Replacing it involves removing the swingarm, but it's all pretty straightforward and easier than on a chain drive GS.

Thank you, BW I might have gotten my spacers mixed, outside chance, I'm usually EMO about that, but we all err ... I will check all and stop wondering. TY

 

[Guest]

Could you expand on this, is the lever coming back to the handlebar?

No, Brendan, it actually does not. As I pulled the casing off, I was looking at that splined shaft, wondering "really? Like that?" ... It was not traveling all the way back, and I had all adjustments extended to max and still felt the drivetrain was slightly bound up/under tension.

 

[Brendan W]

No, Brendan, it actually does not. As I pulled the casing off, I was looking at that splined shaft, wondering "really? Like that?" ... It was not traveling all the way back, and I had all adjustments extended to max and still felt the drivetrain was slightly bound up/under tension.

The lever should come back to the bar.
Gut feeling is that the pinion on the release shaft is riding up beyond the end of the rack on the shaft in the clutch.
If the clutch nut is loose this can happen especially slowing down in gear as the helical drive reverses the thrust on the clutch basket pushing it out.
The clutch will not disengage fully giving a slight drag on the drive train.
Mine was loose enough that the clutch lost the oil pump drive on the over run and the oil pressure lamp came on. If you leaned the bike to the right at a stop the same thing would happen.

 

[bwringer]

Agreed; sounds like the clutch isn't working correctly, and this requires investigation and correction.

At rest, the clutch release lever should point pretty much straight forward, maybe slightly outward.

 

[Guest]

Loved the Clutch Cover Bolts/torque spec gag, as per Suzuki ... what's the real torque? 3ft/lbs? One of mine sheared at 5ft/lbs, guessing 3ft/lbs, and that leaves 1ft/lb fer expansion? 7ft/lbs was a lie, even though that was in the manual ...

 

[Grimly]

Thou shalt neither grunt, nor fart when tightening the clutch cover bolts.

 

[Guest]

Thou shalt neither grunt, nor fart when tightening the clutch cover bolts.

I noticed that you didn't offer a better spec, ya think 3 is enough?

 

[Big T]

Loved the Clutch Cover Bolts/torque spec gag, as per Suzuki ... what's the real torque? 3ft/lbs? One of mine sheared at 5ft/lbs, guessing 3ft/lbs, and that leaves 1ft/lb fer expansion? 7ft/lbs was a lie, even though that was in the manual ...

I'm just guessing, but you have a tool that's accurate at 3 ft lb? Most ft lb tools start at a much higher measurement

I use a in lb tool for most little bolts, but side covers? I just hand turn them til they're firm

 

[Grimly]

I noticed that you didn't offer a better spec, ya think 3 is enough?

Never torqued them.

 

[Guest]

I'm just guessing, but you have a tool that's accurate at 3 ft lb? Most ft lb tools start at a much higher measurement

I use a in lb tool for most little bolts, but side covers? I just hand turn them til they're firm

Yep. both kinds, the new-age "click" type and an older one that uses the needle-pointer. I ended up using that ...

 

[Guest]

Never torqued them.

7lb was the spec listed in the manual. I did try the "clicker" and that was when I broke the bolt. After that, I used Ye Olde Timey one. I've never torqued them, either, and I broke a CX casing that way, so I was trying to do it by the book on this old gal.

 

[Guest]

OK, I got the clutch cover sorted, I saw no issue in there, and I pulled the rear wheel off, to check for misplaced/missing parts, none to be found, all textbook. However, I still have the noise, which I can describe better ... I have a slip. I do not know from where, it sounds as if it is behind me and low, only manifests in a tight U-turn, either direction. I took it out for a quick ride and detected an actual disconnect "felt a jumping and experienced a split-second of non-solidity in the drivetrain" is the best description I can give. Having checked the manual pics, I am guessing that it is within the drive shaft housing. When I originally changed the rear tire, pre-noise, I also adjusted the rear shocks down to notch #2, almost the lightest setting. I am lost, it rides fine and ONLY does it in a tight U-turn while feathering the clutch. Saw no filings when I checked the final drive oil.