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Weird engine noise, tapping. 1982 GS650GL

  • Thread starter Thread starter William Groebe
  • Start date Start date
If the clutch is already fitted it's a bit late, but it's worth turning the oil pump by hand to get the oil circulated, or even wind the engine over by hand with a socket on a speed brace (without the plugs in) before starting the engine. I'm not sure a lack of moly grease would have caused a bearing to wear away just like that, as long they were oiled initially. Oil might take a few seconds to reach a certain bearing on the crank, but not days, and to happen twice? When it's first up and running, can you undo the plug on the side of the engine to check for oil pressure?

I'll be very interested in the outcome, and fair play to you for your determination.
 
Argh. I ran into another snag. The replacement crankshaft I bought had the rotor already attached, but no bolt on the end. No problem, I'll just use the bolt from my original crankshaft, but wait... It's not screwing in. I know it's the right size. 12mm 1.25

I tried a smaller bolt, jut in case, but it was way too small.

What do I do? Tap the thread? If I do that I'll have to take the whole thing apart again to get out any metal shavings right?
Thoughts?

 
What year and model bike did the replacement crank come from? When you say it wont screw in, do you mean it's starts but gets tight or wont even start.

That starter gear looks a tad small as well but maybe it's just the camera angle..
 
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My bike is a 1982 GS650GL. The crank is from a 1981 GS650GL.
The bolt slides in about an inch or so until it reaches the threads at which point I attempt to screw it in, but it doesn't catch the threads. It spins and spins and goes nowhere. I have two other crankshafts that have both been ruined, one from a 1982 and another from a 1981. The bolt screws into both of those crankshafts just fine, but i won't fit into the crankshaft that I need it to screw into.

Should I buy a tap to clean out the threads?
 
Argh indeed! The start of the the tapped hole might have got buggered up with someone pulling off rotor with gear puller. Might need a touch up with tap - coat tap with thick grease to catch any burrs. Hopefully you can find someone to borrow the tap like a foreign car repair place.
 
Ok.

Tap won't get through to the threads. Not sure what the crankshaft is made out of but the tap I borrowed from O'Reilly's can't get in there. So I have to take the cases apart again, order yet another replacement crank, possibly order new bearings (depending on the numbers and letters on the crank/cases) and start over again.

I give up. I'm going to go out and buy a new motorcycle. I'll keep this bike and put it back together someday, but for now, I just need a bike that runs.

Well played, universe. You have defeated a normally strong and determined man.
 
No, don't give up! You've gone this far, might as well get it finished. Are you sure the threads on the crank aren't some other pitch, or are the threads just damaged? Do you have a measuring tool? I bought a HF tap and die set a long time ago that has come in handy, but I would at least get a thread pitch tool.
 
image.jpgSo with rotor off , the o'reilly tap can't get a bite on the buggered thread? Crank is hardenned, but even a chinese tap should be able to grab it. Look at the chamfer angle on hole... 60 degrees included angle ?? Maybe try a angled stone in a drill like in attached pic.. Actually the included angle of stone should not be an issue- you just need to get that rotor bolt in there.
 
That borrowed O'Reilly's tap was probably crap to begin with(wore out) Get a new tap. Take the bolt to a decent hardware store and have it matched up. Tell them you want a starter tap or plug tap preferably the starter tap. Or heck, tell me what size tap you need and I'll send you one out for free. Good luck👍
 
Thanks for the support, guys.

I'm gonna take a little time off before diving back in. I've got a lot going on over the next two weeks. Kid's graduating high school next week so I've got some family related things to attend to anyways. I'll keep you informed on what I decide to do when I get past the next couple weeks.
 
Best to start your own thread, so not to confuse us old folks. I skipped the video as youtubing wanted a signin.
new to you 650 shafty? Note that this critter uses plain main bearings - and therefor requires higher oil pressure. Unpleasant noises are to be avoided.
 
I'll start another thread tonight. In the meantime, YouTube seemed to have set it back to Private, so I changed it, once again, to Public. It should be accessible now.
 
Well I'm back. I've been out of town for the past six months for work, but I'm in town for a couple of weeks so I decided to try to fix her one last time. I'd left off with a fully sealed crankcase, but a crankshaft that would not accept the bolt in the end. I'd rented a tap set from Napa and could not get it to bite. I was going to take the whole thing back apart and had already ordered yet another crankshaft, but in the meantime I hunted down a new 12x1.25 tap and gave it a try and it worked. Cleaned out the threads of the crankshaft and didn't have to take the engine apart again. Thank god.

Over the following days I put the bike back together. Here she is.



Now before I try to start her up I figured I'd run through my checklist and make sure when I start her up I don't do any more damage. because I don't think I have the patience to go through this again.

-I put moly paste on all journals on the crankcase, crankshaft, camshafts, and rods.
-I put in a gallon of oil, though it looks like it's a bit too much as I can't see the top of the oil level iin the window, so I'll drain some out until I do.
-Battery is good. It's been sitting on a tender.
-All wiring is hooked up. Blinkers work etc.
-fuel lines are connected
-Checked my valve clearances. All are within spec except for one which is at .10 so I will need to order a 2.75 shim. (Should I wait to start it up until I have that correct shim? I kind of want to make sure it runs before ordering any more parts.)
-Carbs are all connected and clamps tightened.
-I've got some gas in the tank that's 6 months old. Should I empty the gas and fill it up with new gas?
-I have some starting fluid that I'll be ready to use just in case she needs it.

That's about it. Wish me luck. I'd like to try to start her up today as an early Christmas present.
 
Other than saying that your .10 clearance on that 1 valve will be fine, I don't have any other advice for you. I've never torn down an engine. I do wish you luck, though!
 
Well, I started her up. A little starter fluid went a long way. I?d like to say I?m pretty excited, but there are a few things that are bothering me.

1- I can hear a dreaded tapping sound and I'm immediately getting PTSD flashbacks of worn down rod bearings. If that's the case, this bike is over as I'm not breaking it all the way down a fourth time.

2- Gas is leaking from all four carbs. I didn't do anything to the carburetors when I removed them, so it may be that I just didn't connect something properly. All of the clamps are pretty well tightened down. The gas looks like it is leaking not at the top of the carbs, but finding a way out of the carbs somewhere around the middle and pouring onto the crankcase. I might try just loosening and re-tightening all the clamps on on both sides of the carbs.

3- Oil is leaking from the signal generator cover. It looks like there's a hole there (possibly for oil overflow?) I had let some oil out, but maybe I hadn?t let out enough.

That?s about it. I?m going to stop for the day. I was hoping to be celebrating with a Christmas ride today, but that doesn?t look like it?s going to happen until I can figure out a few of these issues.
 
As to tapping noise..... are you sure that you understood how to insert and release the camchain tensioner gizmo so it can push out against the chain? Doublecheck camshafts to crankshaft timing.. a couple teeth off and a valve might be kissing a piston.
The carbs will need attention even if this leaking stops.. bike will start and run poorly with clogged passages.
the oil seal on crank behind signal generator plate might just be dried up
 
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