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welding a clutch basket

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
The rivets on the back of my 1100 basket are almost flush. the rivets on the 1150 protrude more. Is it fine to just weld them like they are? Do they need to be filed down? I would assume filing them down with significantly weaken them.
 
This one works.... Are you padding the springs to stop them rattling at idle or installing a reinforced plate or?? :)

257bb226.jpg
 
thanks for the reply. I'm welding it just so it won't fail.it looks like yours is welded without grinding the back of the rivets? I'm trying to make sure I don't create a problem with clearance by having welds sticking out beyond the back of the rivets.
 
You weld the hub and basket INTO the rivets. Done properly you should have nothing protrude past the springs.
 
jonn....STOP!
the basket pictured will blow a part if used on your bike.
your basket done as the one pictured will blow a part on your bike.
you need the heavy duty backing plate kit....not some modified stock backing plate.
john pearson or a hand full of others can do this for you.
john's number is 937-839-9723
 
Thanks. I never went much past stock hp on mine so far. Curious, will it grenade at 200 hp, or is it a time bomb at any hp past stock?
 
these fail on stock engines that get ran hard from time to time.
this is not a maybe yes/maybe no item...this is a HAVE to do item.
remember...i have built and ran GS gas turbo's sense 1990 and i had very little money back then so i know what you can get by with for the least amount spent.
also if you have any question's...i'm more than happy to answer these via pm/email/text...caution fat fingers.. or by telephone.
my 1st turbo was a 1168/welded crank/back cut trans/HD basket/HD studs upper and lower/copper head and base gaskets/FF40 turbo...no bars the bike ran 8.90's in 1990.
nothing special but i was happy and progressed to bigger builds as the years went by.
 
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thanks for saving me from myself, lol.

It will blow up and it ain't pretty. I have pictures somewhere. When the clutch comes apart it may exit the engine or destroy your cases at the least. Have you decided on your crank gear yet. I have been running a helical gear with a billet basket and cross my fingers when I get on it. You need a lockup too anything else will slip.
 
I ran a completely stock basket with just welded rivets and tabs to support the backing plate with a car tire into the 8.7's with a 720 lb package. Not smart but it held.
 
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