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Well...

I watched the Youtube and that 'snap' sound almost sounds like a spark could be leaking or jumping from one of your coils or coil wires to the frame.I would consider removing the fuel tank and set-up a remote fuel supply suspended on the handlebars,etc. to gravity feed the carbs,block-off the vacuum line(check for a vacuum leaks also?)and run it in a low-light place to see if you may have a spark jumping off your coils/wires. imo.
Be careful with a remote tank so it doesn't leak,keep the fittings to the fuel line tight.Do you have any members near you who might lend assistance to help with this process ?
 
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You gotta stop messing with more than one thing at a time. Leave the carbs alone. You haven’t run it enough to evaluate plug color/fouling. Why add a fuel filter into the mix, which could cause fuel flow issues that you didn’t have before. Slow down. If you think your problem is electrical/ignition related. Sort that. Get it running, then you can tune, if the bench sync I’m assuming the shop you recently had do carb work doesn’t prove to be exactly where you want things.

Was told to add the filter, wasnt my idea

I'm just gonna leave pilot screws where they are at for now i just did half a turn and they were at 2 1/2
 
I watched the Youtube and that 'snap' sound almost sounds like a spark could be leaking or jumping from one of your coils or coil wires to the frame.I would consider removing the fuel tank and set-up a remote fuel supply suspended on the handlebars,etc. to gravity feed the carbs,block-off the vacuum line(check for a vacuum leaks also?)and run it in a low-light place to see if you may have a spark jumping off your coils/wires. imo.
Be careful with a remote tank so it doesn't leak,keep the fittings to the fuel line tight.Do you have any members near you who might lend assistance to help with this process ?


Forgot to add that was me on throttle, let off at the end. Was making sure short wouldnt shut it off
 
Forgot to add that was me on throttle, let off at the end. Was making sure short wouldnt shut it off


I had a bike from someone I was working on before:we installed the high power coils and later it seems the silicone 'automotive type' wires were loosing spark somewhere and a couple of the connections where we crimped-on other ends after shortening the wires.There was spark jumping to a frame bracket and it had similar feedback as yours is doing.
 
I had a bike from someone I was working on before:we installed the high power coils and later it seems the silicone 'automotive type' wires were loosing spark somewhere and a couple of the connections where we crimped-on other ends after shortening the wires.There was spark jumping to a frame bracket and it had similar feedback as yours is doing.

How was it repaired?
 
If you are going to try this, remember to have some fans running on the engine. You might have to have it running a while so don't let the engine overheat.
 
How was it repaired?


I replaced the graphite core 'auto spec' ignition wires with good copper-core(like oem has)ignition wires that had very good quality boots on both ends.That was a while back and I went to this foreign auto parts place that had good quality plug terminals also;I believe it was Carquest back when I lived in Bethlehem,PA in 2011'.
 
I replaced the graphite core 'auto spec' ignition wires with good copper-core(like oem has)ignition wires that had very good quality boots on both ends.That was a while back and I went to this foreign auto parts place that had good quality plug terminals also;I believe it was Carquest back when I lived in Bethlehem,PA in 2011'.

So the wires that come from the igniter to the coilpacks?

Just making sure, I dont have the igniter anymore but just makes easier to picture what I'm talking about.

The one thing that hasn't been replaced for the ignition system are those wires.

Better to open harness or just tie them off and run a new set? Only challenge for me will be making the 12v connection for the hot wires
 
I don?t know who told you to add a fuel filter but you don?t need it. And I remember someone telling you before to look up GSRick, who lives there in FL, for help
 
So the wires that come from the igniter to the coilpacks?

Just making sure, I dont have the igniter anymore but just makes easier to picture what I'm talking about.

The one thing that hasn't been replaced for the ignition system are those wires.

Better to open harness or just tie them off and run a new set? Only challenge for me will be making the 12v connection for the hot wires


I was referring to the 4) high tension leads/spark plug wires from the coils to the sparkplugs.Those were the ones I've found to want to arc/short to the main frame.The places they were shorting on the other bike I mentioned earlier were the brackets near where the coils are mounted,but they could also short around where the plug caps are.. it all depends.The more power you have in your coils,the more they will want to find a way to spark to the 'ground path'(the path of least resistance):frame,brackets,etc.I've never had a problem with the wires you just mentioned.
 
I was referring to the 4) high tension leads/spark plug wires from the coils to the sparkplugs.Those were the ones I've found to want to arc/short to the main frame.The places they were shorting on the other bike I mentioned earlier were the brackets near where the coils are mounted,but they could also short around where the plug caps are.. it all depends.The more power you have in your coils,the more they will want to find a way to spark to the 'ground path'(the path of least resistance):frame,brackets,etc.I've never had a problem with the wires you just mentioned.

Oh, well the leads are new and non suppression (dont know if that helps). I guess I should mess with the leads
 
Just wanna ask quickly if this is okay, both are grounds, one from R/R (negative connection) and one is from negative battery connection.

Snapchat-1398509385.jpg
 
Just wanna ask quickly if this is okay, both are grounds, one from R/R (negative connection) and one is from negative battery connection.

I would certainly Not use a battery box as a ground point for those two Very important ground connections ! :eek:


View attachment 62753

Please don't use that area for ground connections;attach those wires directly to another bolt meant for your main ground connections right to the frame with metal to shiny metal so the wires connect better;that can be the source of your problems right there,imo.
You need more sleep so you can get 'the edge' back;I hope you can catch-up on sleep,very important.
 
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Please don't use that area for ground connections;attach those wires directly to another bolt meant for your main ground connections right to the frame with metal to shiny metal so the wires connect better;that can be the source of your problems right there,imo.
You need more sleep so you can get 'the edge' back;I hope you can catch-up on sleep,very important.

Will be doing lol, it's where things have been at so I never changed it, will find a better ground.
 
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