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Well...

grcamna2 said:
Ian,did you buy the bike without the right battery cables on it ?
Click to expand...

What do you mean? Not sure what you mean. Those are what they had when I bought the bike


Only thing I've changed is that the yellow wire was put in place of the old black one because wire being corroded
 
Last edited:
Update on the coilpacks. Not trying to do a bunch at once but I figured tracing voltage for ground I might as well check what voltage is going to the coils.

So testing just the coil connections I get 6.5v

Negaitve battery post to positive coil connection about 7.8v

Positive battery post to negative coil connection about 10.5v

Keep in mind these coilpacks and ignition are new....maybe not anymore.
 
Anyone have a guide to replacing the ignition wires? Wires between igniter and coils, I know they are connected to the ignition switch. Hoping this is gonna be fairly simple.
 
timebombprod said:
Update on the coilpacks. Not trying to do a bunch at once but I figured tracing voltage for ground I might as well check what voltage is going to the coils.

So testing just the coil connections I get 6.5v

Negaitve battery post to positive coil connection about 7.8v

Positive battery post to negative coil connection about 10.5v

Keep in mind these coilpacks and ignition are new....maybe not anymore.
Click to expand...

It?s hard for me to see just where you have your meter leads connected.

With KOEO ( that?s Key On Engine Off), meter black lead on the battery negative post, and red meter lead on the orange/white at the coil, read the meter. That?s the voltage available at the coil. I suspect that should be the 10.5 volts you posted above.

Subtract that 10.5v from your battery voltage, say it?s 12.5v, and you are dropping 2 volts just to get power to your coils.

Or to measure the voltage drop directly, with KOEO, put the red meter lead on the Positive battery post, put the black meter lead on the O/W wire at the coil, and read the voltage drop on that portion of the ignition circuit.

I suspect you also have a similar voltage drop on the ground side of the coil circuit. Between the voltage drop on the power side plus the voltage drop on the ground side of the circuit, I suspect you coils are only getting 70-80% of the available voltage.
 
pdqford said:
It’s hard for me to see just where you have your meter leads connected.

With KOEO ( that’s Key On Engine Off), meter black lead on the battery negative post, and red meter lead on the orange/white, read the meter. That’s the voltage available at the coil. I suspect that should be the 10.5 volts you posted above.

Subtract that 10.5v from your battery voltage, say it’s 12.5v, and you are dropping 2 volts just to get power to your coils.

Or to measure the voltage drop directly, with KOEO, put the red meter lead on the Positive battery post, put the black meter lead on the O/W wire at the coil, and read the voltage drop on that portion of the ignition circuit.

I suspect you also have a similar voltage drop on the ground side of the coil circuit. Between the voltage drop on the power side plus the voltage drop on the ground side of the circuit, I suspect you coils are only getting 70-80% of the available voltage.
Click to expand...

For coil connections I have meter leads connected to the positive and negative connection location on coilpacks.

For negative battery post to positive coil connection, negative is on the battery itself and positive is on the coil where positive coil connection is, and vice versa

All is key on ignition off
 
Anyone know of a guide to changing the coil and killswitch wires out? Pretty sure killswitch wire is hooked up to the hots.
 
pdqford said:
Or to measure the voltage drop directly, with KOEO, put the red meter lead on the Positive battery post, put the black meter lead on the O/W wire at the coil, and read the voltage drop on that portion of the ignition circuit.

I suspect you also have a similar voltage drop on the ground side of the coil circuit. Between the voltage drop on the power side plus the voltage drop on the ground side of the circuit, I suspect you coils are only getting 70-80% of the available voltage.
Click to expand...


When doing this test,I got a whopping 4 volts. What do I do from there.

I've been checking other things for its voltage and everything else seems to be fine
 
timebombprod said:
When doing this test,I got a whopping 4 volts. What do I do from there.
Click to expand...
Break out your wiring diagram and trace out the path the current takes to get to the coil. Then with your meter and KOEO, measure the voltage drop in each segment of the path from battery positive up to the coil, finding out where voltage is being dropped.
Example:
From Battery positive post to input to main fuse.
From main fuse input to main fuse output.
Main fuse output to ignition switch input.
Ignition switch input to ignition fuse input.
Ignition fuse input to ignition fuse output.
Ignition fuse output to kill switch input.
And on and on.
You May find all of the voltage being dropped at one point or you may find a little here and a little there.
Clean up connections and switches, resolder poor crimps, etc., where you find the biggest drops first.
 
I'm losing almost 3 volts from positive battery post to ignition fuse, aswell as the turn signal and head fuse. I noticed that these fuses can only be tested with the key on. Noticed that the power loss on the fuse input went down a volt when i took the fuse out, I'll be getting a new one to see if theres a difference

Losing .1v from positive battery post to fusebox, and .4v from positive post to main fuse

Losing .39v from Ignition fuse to ignition wire plug
 
Last edited:
grcamna2 said:
Have you fixed that Ground- wire situation Ian ?
Click to expand...

Well, I've tested for the batteries voltage at the spot and it did read the same voltage , so would it be okay? Testing with positive meter on positive battery post and negative meter on that little bracket.

It does look like it was designed to be a frame ground...sorry if I'm saying it seems valid. I guess I'll move it somewhere else and see if that helps with the voltage loss
 
timebombprod said:
Well, I've tested for the batteries voltage at the spot and it did read the same voltage , so would it be okay? Testing with positive meter on positive battery post and negative meter on that little bracket.

It does look like it was designed to be a frame ground...sorry if I'm saying it seems valid. I guess I'll move it somewhere else and see if that helps with the voltage loss
Click to expand...


Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.
 
grcamna2 said:
Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.
Click to expand...

Gonna get my battery tested, and sand the paint off that spot ensuring theres no interference, and have a washer blocking the ground from touching that rubber.

Just having a hard time thinking that is the culprit when I've been able to get rid of that short beforehand, I really think it sources from my ignition. I noticed that when I've replaced my plugs (a while back) before it had dissapeared, and my bike was loads quieter at idle. Unfortunately the next morning when i went to start the bike up it sounded totally different and had a loping sound. It's just a very odd situation for me. I understand how important a ground is and I've made sure to always put the ground back in the same spot it was prior if no problems were being caused. This stupid short came out of nowhere.


Seems that when the bike is shut off after an initial replacement, that's when things screw up
 
grcamna2 said:
Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.
Click to expand...


I'm only trying to help you.That place you have those Ground wires attached under the battery,on the battery box is Not Adequate and Will cause problems for your whole bike.I won't post to this thread anymore until you attach those Ground straps to a solid Ground as has been recommended:you don't want to accept my help and that feels insulting to me.
 
grcamna2 said:
I'm only trying to help you.That place you have those Ground wires attached under the battery,on the battery box is Not Adequate and Will cause problems for your whole bike.I won't post to this thread anymore until you attach those Ground straps to a solid Ground as has been recommended:you don't want to accept my help and that feels insulting to me.
Click to expand...

I apologize I know it feels insulting, I'll let you know when its moved.
 
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