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Wet sanding before clear?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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kdo58 said:
I tried wet sand 2k, I ended up respraying 2k, just saying.
Click to expand...

Ok, so where do you think the problem was? How many coats of clear did you use? What grit sandpaper? More details please.
 
The idea is a very slight sanding. Not even all the way through the waves or texture in the surface of the clear. Use the surface texture as a guide, stop before the tiny waves are gone. If you go farther you have no way of knowing how deep you have gone. Practice first on something you don't care about, or better yet have someone who knows how show you how it's done.

Then polish it and you will have a mirror smooth surface, much more shiny, deep and bright than you ever thought possible. Just like the expensive paint job, because this is the step that lets it really look professional.
 
Sci, 2K has no clear coat, 2k has the clear mixed with the colour it is sprayed as one step, unlike base coat/clear coat, which are two separate steps.
 
2k does make a clear coat, people spray it over rattle can paint jobs to make them resist fuel.

It is a true two part urethane clear from a spray can, good stuff.
 
I have some Orange peel patches after the first coat of clear. Should I sand them now, or finish the other coats and sand then?

I fear the peel will just get worse with more clear, but don't want to tear up the color.

This is a seat, so I am using regular rattle can clear not 2k like I would on a tank.
 
MisterCinders said:
I have some Orange peel patches after the first coat of clear. Should I sand them now, or finish the other coats and sand then?

I fear the peel will just get worse with more clear, but don't want to tear up the color.

This is a seat, so I am using regular rattle can clear not 2k like I would on a tank.
Click to expand...

You'll end up with a better finish if you sand the orange peel now and then recoat. It is possible to float enough clear over an orange peeded surface to make the orange peel all but disappear however, you're more likely to to get sags and runs when working on a multi contoured surface.
 
Here is a thread I bookmarked about finish sanding and polishing from Badooka.
It's got good info in it and pictures, can't forget the pictures.

attachment.php
 
Dang! That is one sweet looking tank. Ok, I'm gonna do it but I'm gonna learn on my front fender or side pale first. Just got to sanding those today to get them prepped. Wll post pics once the weather warms backup to paint temp.
 
Do you know if after using the sheets all the way up to 12k, do you then have to use any wet past or polishing compounds or just through some wax on it and your done?
 
Sci, I highly doubt any polish will be equivalent to 12000 grit, most are somewhere between 2500 and 3000 grit equivalent.
So polishing after using any pad finer than that would just set you a step back again, and worsen the surface.
Therefore, wax to protect and call it done, I would say.
Of course I have not used the product, but logic says so.
 
Dave8338 said:
You'll end up with a better finish if you sand the orange peel now and then recoat. It is possible to float enough clear over an orange peeded surface to make the orange peel all but disappear however, you're more likely to to get sags and runs when working on a multi contoured surface.
Click to expand...

Ugh. Sanded down the orange peel and cleaned the surface thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Wore gloves and laid more clear. The peel is even worse. Looks like an old man's wang.

Guess it's time to sand it all the way down and start again.
 
MisterCinders said:
Ugh. Sanded down the orange peel and cleaned the surface thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Wore gloves and laid more clear. The peel is even worse. Looks like an old man's wang.

Guess it's time to sand it all the way down and start again.
Click to expand...

There is something wrong with your spraying, or mixing, or it's too dry or cold, not sure what but something is wrong.
 
I agree with Tom, it has nothing to do with the fact that you sanded the clear coat.
Something else is amiss there, as he said, either in the mixing or in the technique, maybe you are not laying it on wet enough to flow properly, maybe thin it a tad more, which will increase your chances of runs of course.
It could be many things, distance from the piece, speed of movement across the piece, consistency of the product.....
You need to try various methods on some scrap and see what works.
 
Pics Mister Cinders so we can all see what your seeing.

Flyboy, I found a video that showed a guy going to 3000 then using Mothers polishing compound after that and man it came out with a really deep shine and smooth. he said for a daily driver, 3000 is as high as he goes after starting with 1200, then 2000. Unfortunately, the instructions on that site with those super fine papers don't really give you much direction and are geared towards guitar bodies. So I'm guessing once you hit 3k you can go to traditional polishing or continue up to 12k then wax and go? I guess if you try that and no shine, then you can drop down to some fine compound and fine pad.
 
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Mrcinders
How long are you giving the part to dry after rub with denatured alcohol?

If i remember right that's some pretty wicked stuff.

Thinking that using denatured alcohol on new painted surface even with a proper paint cure time you may have to treat paint as not cured and wait a couple of weeks after using it.

Even then it might have soaked down through to surface of part.

I have only used denatured alcohol to strip wood stain and not as a cleaning agent.

Normal rubbing alcohol will work great to clean any oils off paint without sinking into paint like denatured alcohol will.

I am not a paint guy, but that's my thoughts on what might be causing your problems.

By the way my valve adjustment that turned into replacing some wires in harness now includes brake rebuild with caliper paint, some rust removal, (around welds) And painting and new fasteners around some bits and pieces.

WHATS WRONG WITH ME? hahahahahahahahahahahieyah
 
Yeah, +1 on good ole rubbing alcohol. That's exactly what I used on the tank for final cleaning before painting and it worked great plus gives you that nice hospital aroma.
 
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