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"Wet Sanding"

  • Thread starter Thread starter lilbilly
  • Start date Start date
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lilbilly

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I need to get the oxidized clear coat off my engine covers. I see most reccommend cleaning them and starting with 400 grit and then as moving up to 600 and higher 'wet sanding'. I'm unfamiliar with this probably very simple process.

What are you doing to 'wet sand'? Running water on it or just keeping it wet while sanding?
 
You don't have to run water, but just keep the surface wet.
You can use a soaked sponge and just squeeze some water out of it onto the surface.
 
The water is to keep the abrasive paper clean and actually cuts better than equivalent dry sanding. You can also get a lot of mileage out of a single piece of paper because you keep it clean. If you plan to spray over it anything smoother than 400 wet will likely not adhere well.
 
What I did...

1) Spray them with easy off no fume oven cleaner and let sit for a few minutes. Then wash them off. Might have to repeat this step to remove the clear coat. I know some say not to use oven cleaner, but that's what i used.
2) Wet sand them with 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper.
3) Scrub them all over with SOS pad.
4) Polish with Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish.

Result....
DSCF5195.jpg
 
The Easy Off is good to remove anodizing but to remove the clear off engine covers paint stripper is the proper material.

In terms of spraying clear on the polished metal, Por-15 sells some prep material that helps the paint stick. I recently used it before hitting my engine covers with Glisten clear. Not sure if the Glisten will hold up to the heat but decided to give it a try.
 
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Nessism said:
Por-15 sells some prep material that helps the paint stick.
Click to expand...

Metal Ready ?

I think i may try clear coating my engine covers when i do them next time. I can already see some tiny spots coming out on mine. I don't want to have to polish them every week.
 
Hey Nessism:

The POR-15 rep over here in Oz recommended the Glisten PC for my case covers once I polish them up so the heat factor is apparently ok.

The only thing he was concerned about was the heat from the fins of an air cooled motor with their engine enamel, so I'm going with the Black Velvet high heat paint for the head etc.
 
errorcauser said:
Metal Ready ?

I think i may try clear coating my engine covers when i do them next time. I can already see some tiny spots coming out on mine. I don't want to have to polish them every week.
Click to expand...

Had to look it up...they call it AP120 http://www.por15.com/AP120/productinfo/AP20/

Regarding Glisten on the engine covers, thanks for the info pete! The Glisten sprayed on really nice and flowed nicely without a tenancy to run. My engine covers look nice...and fingers crossed, they will stay that way for a while.
 
Last edited:
lilbilly said:
I need to get the oxidized clear coat off my engine covers. I see most reccommend cleaning them and starting with 400 grit and then as moving up to 600 and higher 'wet sanding'. I'm unfamiliar with this probably very simple process.

What are you doing to 'wet sand'? Running water on it or just keeping it wet while sanding?
Click to expand...

Use aircraft stripper, available at many auto parts stores and Wal Mart

Then, if the result looks clean, start at 1000 grit, then polish

If you have oxidation after the clear coat is stripped off, start at 400 grit and work up.
 
Is the cover (not sure of the name?) with the oil window removable with the oil in? Not sure if it's holding in anything?

Just add this to my list of dumb questions....
 
lilbilly said:
Is the cover (not sure of the name?) with the oil window removable with the oil in? Not sure if it's holding in anything?

Just add this to my list of dumb questions....
Click to expand...

Yes.
Put the bike on the sidestand. Remove the cover. You may get some oil come out but, it shouldn't be much. Be prepared to catch what comes out. Try and save your gasket. It won't be reusable but, you can use it as a template to cut a new one from some sheet gasket material. There's little to no oil pressure on that cover.:)
 
You can also press out the window and put in a new one. The oil sight glass is only about $8 or $9. It's all one unit with the rubber seal around the edge.

You do want to PRESS it in instead of bashing it in with a hammer for what I hope are obvious reasons.
 
Nessism said:
Had to look it up...they call it AP120 http://www.por15.com/AP120/productinfo/AP20/

Regarding Glisten on the engine covers, thanks for the info pete! The Glisten sprayed on really nice and flowed nicely without a tenancy to run. My engine covers look nice...and fingers crossed, they will stay that way for a while.
Click to expand...

Good to hear Nessism! I've got all my stuff ready to go, just gotta get some sand paper and am hoping to start on Wednesday depending on time, otherwise I got another two days off work next week so hope to get some serious work done prepping and painting.

Black Velvet on the head, crankcases, etc. and polished with Glisten PC on the case covers and starter motor cover and then Blackcote on the frame, swingarm, side and centre stand.

At least that's the plan anyway...
 
The aircraft stripper is the way to go, IMO. It makes for a TON less work and you dont have to worry about sanding marks that you'd get out of 400 grit. That also takes a pretty good amount of material off. There are those who will argue that by removing the material on the covers, you have less surface area for cooling blah blah blah...

At any rate, If you HAVE an air compressor, and a die grinder, or a DA or something like that, go to Harbor Freight and pick up their little polishing wheel pack. I use that to keep the shine up, but it will do a good job on its own. Use the Die Grinder with the wheel, some alu oxide jewelers rouge and go to town...my stuff you can shave out of. Plus, you dont HAVE to remove the covers, which means no more money spent on gaskets...
 
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