what brand primer to use

[first timer]

hey guys anyone have any good suggestions about primer brands to use. I just used rustoleum grey Auto primer on my frame and their high performance enamel on the frame, needless to say i am not super happy with it. It did the job and it looks real good but it seems like it is very prone to chipping especally on the little edges of things. it seams like the enamel pulls off some of the primer when it get hit.

now i want to do the rest of my bike and am conserned with the primer i use, i'm going to have all the body pieces done professionally but am going to sand and prime them to be painted for the guy doin it.

i would like to hear from anyone that has been very happy using a brand of rattel can primer that seams to not let the paint chip easy.

-ryan

 

[Doze]

Ryan, in all honesty, you're not going to find a rattle can primer than won't be prone to chipping or scratching easily. You need a good urethane or epoxy primer that will actually etch into the metal for a good bond.
Doze.

 

[first timer]

can you get a good epoxy or ureathane primer in rattle can?

and would automotive paint work with rattle can primer?

i already stripped my gas tank down to metel and use rattle can primer should i try to take off the primer and use a better quality primer if i can find it. or should i just go with it and every thing elese and hope the auto paint holds up well.


i found this its kinda neet

http://www.fourwheeler.com/howto/128_9710_paint/index2.html

-ryan

 

[Dink]

Ryan for a quality job there is no substitute for quality materials, by all means do the sanding yourself , BUT leave the rest primer and all to the professionals, unless you wanna buy a compressor and a spray outfit. Rattle can will never match the quality of professional stuff.
Dink

 

[first timer]

if i strip it all down to the metel, it is going to be a while before i can get it primed professionally, what can you recomend i use to protect the metal so it doesn't rust in that time.

on a side note i may have access to a compressor and a gun which means i could buy the good primer and do the priming and sanding my self and just have it painted profesionally, my cousin back home does this and said he could do it dirt cheap for me, the paint that is, is it hard to screw up priming.

is it hard to have a professional remove the rattel can primer so he can use the good primer, i have striped this tank so many times and now that i have it nice and clean with rattel can primer i would hate to do it again.

-ryan

 

[first timer]

i found this stuff to as a way to maybe help keep the tank rust free if i have to wait to get it primed.

http://www.picklex20.com/

any ideas about this and how do you think this would jive with a good primer.


-ryan

 

[Dink]

On the metal fuel tank, try CRC long life, it is a wd40 type product, except it leaves a protective film that is pnly removed by petrol (gas?) it is often used in Oz on machined parts that arent intended to be fitted for a while, and I have used it personally and recommend it,
Or yes it would be a Very good idea to consult whoever will paint the tank to find out what primer they recomend and use it , but remeber you will need to put at least one coat of paint over it (a guide coat will do ) as almost all primers absorb water over time.
Dink

 

[joe.d]

We use ICI speed enamal on our external out side Spiral Staircases, it dosnt need a primer and drys rock hard, you cant use a brush, becouse of the fast dring aspect, but I would garentee out of a electric spray gun you would get a awesome finish, it retails at about $70 canadian , and comes in any colour

 

[Doze]

Ryan, your rattle can primer will wash right off with some laquer thinner. There is no need to use paint stripper on it. You can't get true epoxy or urethane primer in a rattle can because they both use a catalyst to harden the primer, and if you put that in a rattle can it would harden in hte can before you sprayed it out. BTW it's pretty hard to screw up putting primer on, you can always sand out your mistakes. ie, runs or sags.
Doze.

 

[first timer]

thanks, i'll look into have real primer put on the tank.

what is a good primer for the plastic peices on the bike, can i use the same primer for the tank.

thanks,

-ryan

 

[Joe Nardy]

Ryan,

Yes, you do have access to a compressor and spray gun. We just need to give Steve a few bucks for the spray gun which is in my garage in the original package. We could make a makeshift spray booth in my garage with cheap materials (2x4's, clear plastic, staples, duct tape), do some research, practice on some scrap metal, then spray your stuff. Why go through all the work to do a nice prep then use rattle cans and end up with an unsatisfactory finish?

Joe

 

[Jethro]

In my mind, spending $500-700 for a pro to do it is worth every penny. I'm having mine done this winter.

 

[first timer]

i'm going to look into some things after turkey day, there is a back ally painter by me that i maybe able to get them to prime it right for cheap, if not we could do it at your house joe, or i could ask my cousin (a professional painter 600 miles away) if he wouldn't mind priming it as well as painting it when i go back for x mas. that lacor thinner sound like a good trick i would hate to have to grind that damn tank agian.

-ryan

 

[Anonymous]

primmer

primmer

Hello guys, Yes if you are looking for a quality job on the frame you should spend the extra coin on getting the frame powdercoated, or if u must have it painted I highly recomend the use of urathain primmers prior to paint. The only paint that is tough enough to use on a frame is Duponts IMRON brand, so tough that it was developed for use on aircarft. but u must use the proper primmers and it is not cheep. $120.00 canadian per quart plus activators and reducers. so powdercoating is by far cheeper.
As to the plastic parts if they r down to the bare plastic u must use a polypropoline primmer as a base only (clear ) basecoat that is designed to stick to plastic and a base for other primmers to adhear to,
When choosing a primmer I recomend choosing a high build urithain primmer. Using inferior primmers is only going to compromise a quality paint job.
Any job is only as good as its foundation!

Regards, Archie

 

[Nerobro]

Hm... I have a 550 that needs to be sprayed as well. If the painting thing can wait untill after the TFT ride I would like to join in.

 

[Anonymous]

If you can get access to the pro gun, definately use it. As far as which primer, I prefer 2K. It's a high build primer. As far as the rattle can goes, go to a paint store and get a can of "self-etching" primer. It's about $10 a can but it will protect your tank from rust and you can use the 2K primer over it. If you're going to have it professionally painted you really should have the right primer under it. If you can't get the right primer, just let the painter prime it.

 

[first timer]

i talked to a guy that said he can prime it for me for pretty cheap, i plan on buying the primer for him to spray. He also sells verious pgp products what type, name, number.... and every thing elses will i need to get the best recomended primer for both the metal tank and the plastic pieces?

will i need 2 diffrent primers or can i just use one type for both.

i figure i will have the guy spray it for me, then i will just sand it myself and have my cousin do the rest. i will also be doing a little bondo (small dent) on the tank.

thanks for any help.

ryan

 

[Anonymous]

i talked to a guy that said he can prime it for me for pretty cheap, i plan on buying the primer for him to spray. He also sells verious pgp products what type, name, number.... and every thing elses will i need to get the best recomended primer for both the metal tank and the plastic pieces?

will i need 2 diffrent primers or can i just use one type for both.

i figure i will have the guy spray it for me, then i will just sand it myself and have my cousin do the rest. i will also be doing a little bondo (small dent) on the tank.

thanks for any help.

ryan

I'm not sure if the 2K can be used on plastic. Ask the guys at the paint store. It's there job to know what products work for each particular application. I have used the 2K on plastic before and it worked, but it didn't bite too well on the first coat. I had to resand with coarser paper (can't remember what grit, but I think 180). It was still fine when I sold the bike.

 

[Poot]

also, buy a can of intake cleaner and its sure to remove anything.... :twisted: