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What fuse on the RR + wire

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i have the rr positive wire run directly to the battery

what fuse should i use on that line?

(the main fuse on the fuse box is 15A and the others are 10A)

thanks gsr!
 
?????

Im not sure you want to do that. I thought the 12vdc supply wire and sense wire should be switched. You can put the RR ground straight to the neg battery terminal.

I think.......
 
i have the rr positive wire run directly to the battery

what fuse should i use on that line?

(the main fuse on the fuse box is 15A and the others are 10A)

thanks gsr!

psyguy,
Usually the positive from the R/R is tee'd into the main red wire from the main fuse, just above the battery inside the harness. I disconnected that wire and ran it directly to the new fusebox with a 15A fuse to the battery, to seperate it from the main fuse.
As per design the main fuse will protect it, but as per some threads if the main fuse starts blowing, how otherwise will you immediately be able to localise it to the R/R?

The only time the R/R should put out a lot of amps is when your battery voltage is much lower (faulty or very discharged) than normal or if you have a charging problem such as a faulty R/R or maybe stator. Meaning that the charging system perceives it as low, or has failed to such a faulty state where it stops regulating the output, due to whatever reason.

As you probably know, the difference in voltage between the charging system determines the charging current and as the battery voltage rises to a specific point the charging current is reduced. The regulator does this and if it cannot properly see the battery voltage or gets an incorrect low battery voltage due to some loss in the sensing path or due to a faulty component it may happily pump high current to the battery while watching for the voltage rise that will tell it to slow down. I always think of one cell failing in a battery and the battery voltage reduced by 2.2 V, especially measureable after standing overnight. A quick giveaway here is the old specific gravity test or SG. If a cell tests under 1200 it is not fully charged and if it hits 1120 or so it is flat. If the other cells are 1250 then the battery has a faulty cell. In your case check your battery voltage or the SG of each cell after an overnight rest and see if all is still well.
 
The sense wire should be switched to avoid draining the battery with the ignition off.
The 12VDC supply wire should go directly to the battery because of the high currents involved and the fact that there is no drain on the battery through this wire with the ignition off. There should be a fuse in this circuit to protect the wiring if something goes haywire. Because my R/R is putting out close to 15 amps to run the bike and charge the battery, I used a 20 amp fuse and bumped up the wiring to 14 gauge.
 
The sense wire should be switched to avoid draining the battery with the ignition off.
The 12VDC supply wire should go directly to the battery because of the high currents involved and the fact that there is no drain on the battery through this wire with the ignition off. There should be a fuse in this circuit to protect the wiring if something goes haywire. Because my R/R is putting out close to 15 amps to run the bike and charge the battery, I used a 20 amp fuse and bumped up the wiring to 14 gauge.

Exactly one of the reasons why I put in a seperate fuse, I can bump up if required and it keeps the charging current out of the harness in case of a disaster and I have a measuring point and break point at the same time. Pushing an ampmeter into the fuse position for testing the charging current is also very easy.:)
 
ok, so a 15 or 20A in-line fuse on the +wire from the rr directly to the battery

(yes, the sense wire is switched)

now, just curious, how would one know if that fuse happens to blow, what would be the signs? an empty battery? :-k
 
Just watch the volt meter that you don't have installed yet. :D

.

im in two minds about adding stuff like that to the bike :-k
on one hand i like to know whats going on but on the other i also like the clean look with bare essentials only :cool:
now, gs already has a few gauges more than what i would put on it... not that i would ever want to remove whats already there :D
 
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