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what have I done.....

  • Thread starter Thread starter bikerzx7r1981
  • Start date Start date
B

bikerzx7r1981

Guest
Hi all.

I decided that the fuse box mounting plate was really dirty so decided to take it all off. spray it put it back on with n ice shiny bolts now the 25 amp fuse keeps blowing as soon as the ignition is tuned on.

You ever get the feeling ... you shouldn't have bothered.

I have done nothing different than before ... so not sure whats wrong?.

does anyone have any ideas please
 
Hi,

A 25 amp fuse seems too big. What bike are we talking about? Please put it in your sig file.

I would think that you shorted something to ground (the frame) when you put it back together. Carefully check your work again.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi It's a GS1000G 1981

Does anyone ahve a pic of how the plate should look please?

does the plate have a ground?

I did take them all off the plate and plugged them in and it still blew?
 
so you unbolted the fuse block from where it mounts and let it just hang loose, to see if it blows then? if not that could help find the short.

25amp does seem too high as well.:confused:

is it blowing as soon as you put it in, when you try to start the bike, after it runs for 5 minutes, what?
 
Which fuse is it you are talking about, there are a number of fuses on that model. Did it occur to you that someone had put that heavy 25amp fuse in there for a reason.
 
In the stock configuration, the MAIN fuse is a 15-amp, all the others are 10-amp.

We need to know which one blows, as NONE of them is supposed to be a 25.

At one end of the fuse box is a pair of screw terminals for your AUX outlet. Start at the other end to identify your fuses:

LIGHTS - provides power to headlight, tail light and instrument panel lights
SIGNALS - provides power to turn signals, brake light, horn and warning lights (low oil pressure, side stand, etc. (OK, it's an '81, it does not have a sidestand light))
IGNITION - provides power to coils and ignitor, also triggers starter solenoid
MAIN - provides power to the top three fuses before the engine is running. After engine is running, protects battery from R/R output.
AUX - provides power to one of the two screws that is next to it. (The other screw is a ground.)


As Sparky mentioned, let the fuse box hang free to see if it still blows fuses.

.
 
I think it linked to the ignition. When i put new fuses in the and turn he key ignition light comes on and then straight away it blows the fuse.

I took it all apart again and left it hang loose and it still doing that. I did just repalce the kill switch and light switch but had the bike running since.

So i'm gonna take this off and try this aswell. .... argh... just got it it running and now this.

25 amp was just what was in before,
 
Hi From the description below it seems to be the main fuse which is blowing, but at the same time it is heating the ignition one up. but the main one breasks first.

Could the bike just have a general bad earthing?

In the stock configuration, the MAIN fuse is a 15-amp, all the others are 10-amp.

We need to know which one blows, as NONE of them is supposed to be a 25.

At one end of the fuse box is a pair of screw terminals for your AUX outlet. Start at the other end to identify your fuses:

LIGHTS - provides power to headlight, tail light and instrument panel lights
SIGNALS - provides power to turn signals, brake light, horn and warning lights (low oil pressure, side stand, etc. (OK, it's an '81, it does not have a sidestand light))
IGNITION - provides power to coils and ignitor, also triggers starter solenoid
MAIN - provides power to the top three fuses before the engine is running. After engine is running, protects battery from R/R output.
AUX - provides power to one of the two screws that is next to it. (The other screw is a ground.)


As Sparky mentioned, let the fuse box hang free to see if it still blows fuses.

.
 
Disconnect the R/R (reg-rectifier) from the circuit and see if the "proper" fuse still blows.

disconnection of the R/R could involve cutting or unplugging the red wire that goes to the fuse panel.
 
Absolutely it will still start, and run, just off the battery, not the charging system.
 
Oh no... I have really done it now

Oh no... I have really done it now

Sorry guys... me an electrics dont mix.

I went back to basics adn checked all my wiring and undid the reg/rec and got it so the fuses didnt blow.... but the bike would not turn over.

So decided to try a the wires around in case I didnt connect the stator properly....... AND THAT WHERE IT ALL WENT WRONG

Now I have no light and no starting .

I ahve tried the wires in lots of combinations... with no joy.. So good new no blown fuses.. but down side bike aint doing anything

I ahve enclosed a pic of my hope less hand holsing wires.... does anyone have a clue which goes where.... and yes I'm a numpty :-)

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/kevlid1981/regulator/photo.jpg

wires on bottom left a from the alternator
the ones on the right are reg /rec
the ones top right ...erm... just not sure
also there is one from the startor
 
The 3 yellow wires the input wires from the RR. They plug into the 3 stator output wires in your left hand, which one does not matter, they are all the same.
The red wire is the RR output. It should go to a wire connected to your battery.
 
thanks mate, I been out and hooked up the stator wires to the reg/rec, the only prob is from the bunch of wire on the top right ( http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/kevlid1981/regulator/SDC10846.jpg) i have a male and femal left, but from the same bunch of wire?

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/kevlid1981/regulator/SDC10845.jpg

So I have one main red with going from the fuse box to the battery

I now have 3 wires from the stor going to the reg rec, The red wire going from the reg rec to the red wire at the top left.

I the have another wire looks like its from the stator plugged in at the top left. so I am left with 2 wires male and female but coming both out of the to......

and still no lights i'm afraid
 
Well, there are only 3 female plug wires coming from the stator, they are bundled together and connect to the yellow male connector wires going to the RR. It looks like you have those correct.
You would never connect two wires from the same bundle, so something there is incorrect.
That green female connector wire looks mighty lonely there.
Even if the stator were not connected, you should still have power to the system from the ~12.6 volts of the battery, so you should start at the battery and go out from there. Have you checked your grounds yet?
 
no mate not yet... how do i check them? well not sure where they are?

i will take another look tommorow mate.........
 
What colors are the two wires?

If one is white with a green tracer and the other is white with a red tracer, ignore them. :eek:

Those two wires used to go to the headlight switch, back when bikes still had headlight switches, but now just provide a bunch more opportunities for bad connections. One of the stator wires would go to the wire with the male bullet connector, the one with the female bullet would connect to the R/R. It is far better to ignore those two wires and wire all three stator wires directly to the R/R.

.
 
While you're figuring what it is you and the PO have done hooking up wires wrong, I advise unbolting the fuse panel and inspecting the connections on the back, where it is known to melt the solder off the wires.

Also, check to make sure the copper clips for the fuses aren't touching
 
Hi Yeah one is white with a green tracer and the other is white with a red tracer.... my head light still has a on off switch though?

Where should the bike be grounded? just so I can check if its ok?

What colors are the two wires?

If one is white with a green tracer and the other is white with a red tracer, ignore them. :eek:

Those two wires used to go to the headlight switch, back when bikes still had headlight switches, but now just provide a bunch more opportunities for bad connections. One of the stator wires would go to the wire with the male bullet connector, the one with the female bullet would connect to the R/R. It is far better to ignore those two wires and wire all three stator wires directly to the R/R.

.
 
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