R
rosco15
Guest
been there. Done that.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
L
lecroy
Guest
I really like that clutch cover and should have bought one 20 years ago. Last time at the track I tore the clutch out on every run, pack and all. Took just a couple of minutes. The time savings alone make it worth it.
It's a bit larger cap, but easier to take on and off. With the new cover, may as well just fill it in the big hole.
The new ignition. This was a big step in right direction when I switched back to gasoline. Did anyone here buy the MC1?
I have heard that the 1100 head cant take much more than 20PSI and I am running 22 with it. I want to pump it up a bit more, but I don't like running the risk of cracking a good head. This is the virgin 1150 head the way I got it. Looks like number three gace out.
Back from FBG. Just some clean up work, valve job, springs and resurface. I like these stock parts. Still trying to find a cover for it.
It's a bit larger cap, but easier to take on and off. With the new cover, may as well just fill it in the big hole.
The new ignition. This was a big step in right direction when I switched back to gasoline. Did anyone here buy the MC1?
I have heard that the 1100 head cant take much more than 20PSI and I am running 22 with it. I want to pump it up a bit more, but I don't like running the risk of cracking a good head. This is the virgin 1150 head the way I got it. Looks like number three gace out.
Back from FBG. Just some clean up work, valve job, springs and resurface. I like these stock parts. Still trying to find a cover for it.
R
rosco15
Guest
I think my gs is put up for the year. I loaned my basket to a friend of mine who blew his up and wasnts to finish the prostar races. Gives me a chance to race the hayabusa. That thing realy flies. Ran 10.18 @138. 60' was only 1.80. I had two other passes at 140 mph. Starting to get used to launching it hard. I'd love to have a 9 second street bike. If I could get it in the 1.60's it will be darn close.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
All I can say is WOW 8O 8O 8O
When my GS grows up it want to be like your's or Ryan's
Back to the Rat, I just installed my 48 sprocket and if I can reach 10.2K in fouth gear that should get 115mph and should put me in the high 5's.
Going back out on Friday with my 46 and 44 sprockets in hand just in case I'm going in the wrong direction.
When my GS grows up it want to be like your's or Ryan's
Back to the Rat, I just installed my 48 sprocket and if I can reach 10.2K in fouth gear that should get 115mph and should put me in the high 5's.
Going back out on Friday with my 46 and 44 sprockets in hand just in case I'm going in the wrong direction.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Hey Lecroy FYI make sure one of the cover bolts is not to close to the clutch basket. It's the one you have to remove the access cover to get too. Last year I used a bolt that was to long and the basket was rubbing on it. Just remove the access cover and see how far that bolt/screw is.
PS a Ford soleniod would sure look nice on that machine 8O :lol:
PS a Ford soleniod would sure look nice on that machine 8O :lol:
L
lecroy
Guest
My bike is not so pretty up close. Not much of a show piece but thanks for the comment. I like Ryan's attention to the details. It's also not a whole lot faster than you in the 8th.
Thanks!! I will double check the length. There have been no signs of rubbing with the bolts that came with it, but it never hurts to look.
I still air clutch it, so not too far off from what your doing. Like Ryan said, it's very lazy (low RPM) and to tell you the truth, I have run it even more lazy than this with my restricter in-line with the cylinders exhaust and even softer static pressure. But you also see how many plates I have lost. Like I said, I want the award for worst clutch tuner of the year.
I have run from a 36 to a 48 tooth always with a 15 front and a 26" rear tire and 1100 crank gear. The 48 was volital! There was no way I could push button that fast. I would run out of top end in the 1/4 without pushing the engine RPM higher than I wanted. I try to keep the engine below 9000. You should be fine in the 1/8. I am thinking your going to have some fun. I like the same numbers for the quarter, 46-42. The turbo seems to like the lower numbers. I even tried a 32 one time. It was tough to keep the engine happy with that one.
RacingJake said:
Thanks!! I will double check the length. There have been no signs of rubbing with the bolts that came with it, but it never hurts to look.
I still air clutch it, so not too far off from what your doing. Like Ryan said, it's very lazy (low RPM) and to tell you the truth, I have run it even more lazy than this with my restricter in-line with the cylinders exhaust and even softer static pressure. But you also see how many plates I have lost. Like I said, I want the award for worst clutch tuner of the year.
I have run from a 36 to a 48 tooth always with a 15 front and a 26" rear tire and 1100 crank gear. The 48 was volital! There was no way I could push button that fast. I would run out of top end in the 1/4 without pushing the engine RPM higher than I wanted. I try to keep the engine below 9000. You should be fine in the 1/8. I am thinking your going to have some fun. I like the same numbers for the quarter, 46-42. The turbo seems to like the lower numbers. I even tried a 32 one time. It was tough to keep the engine happy with that one.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
I shift at 9800 and I'll keep it in 4th up to 10500 chip. 10.5 should be around 119mph but don't think the bike can get above 115 in the 1/8. That's what I like about test and tune.... having alittle fun and see what happens.
On the 1/4 she'll top out in 5th at 139 at 10.5 rpms so a 14-48 is a no go.
On the 1/4 she'll top out in 5th at 139 at 10.5 rpms so a 14-48 is a no go.
L
lecroy
Guest
Man, I really baby my old bike!!! It shifts below 8000. I normally set the save ur ass limiter around 10,000.
After working with diesels, my motto is the slower things turn the longer the parts live.
After working with diesels, my motto is the slower things turn the longer the parts live.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Make a few runs tonight with the 48, spin the tire and the shift lite would stay on until the tire hooked up. So I R/R with my 44 and the 60's fall out, so it's looks like my bike like the 46. I guess tormorrow I'll slapping it back on.
Also won this little toy on Ebay tonight
Gives me something to do this winter and I can leave my other nitrous kit on my Falcon alone.
Also won this little toy on Ebay tonight
Gives me something to do this winter and I can leave my other nitrous kit on my Falcon alone.
L
lecroy
Guest
Now this is what I was talking about. If your no longer getting pumped up when you go, you need to go faster, and this should do it. Any idea what jets you have yet?
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Not sure whats in it, but I'm going to start with 14/16 jets and that should be around 24HP. I not going to run it this year as I need to coat my tank or get a fuel cell.
The track closes at the end of Nov so I'm going to play around with my lectrons and see if I can bust into the 5's with them. I want to be in the 5's before I start spraying it.
Maybe build a second motor for it, just need a few more things. I got that 1166, 13-1 pistons and block and with the 1100 head it could be my test engine.
The track closes at the end of Nov so I'm going to play around with my lectrons and see if I can bust into the 5's with them. I want to be in the 5's before I start spraying it.
Maybe build a second motor for it, just need a few more things. I got that 1166, 13-1 pistons and block and with the 1100 head it could be my test engine.
L
lecroy
Guest
What's the problem with the fuel tank? Maybe Jaz has something you could use. Try....
http://www.jazproducts.com/index2.htm
Or if your staying with gasoline, I would skip the fuel cell and just get a new backbone for your frame. If you want something really cheap, maybe you could find a small aluminum tank and just weld some fittings to it. I think I got my fuel caps from Jegs or Summit. You could even use a couple of brass valves from the local hardware store. I used to use these on my old GS. A lot of flow and not near the cost of Pingles.
http://www.jazproducts.com/index2.htm
Or if your staying with gasoline, I would skip the fuel cell and just get a new backbone for your frame. If you want something really cheap, maybe you could find a small aluminum tank and just weld some fittings to it. I think I got my fuel caps from Jegs or Summit. You could even use a couple of brass valves from the local hardware store. I used to use these on my old GS. A lot of flow and not near the cost of Pingles.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
lecroy said:
I got one of those rusty tanks too and every year I clean it out. I don't want to take a chance using nitrous and run it lean do to some rusty crap in there.
L
lecroy
Guest
If you did switch to a different fuel tank, how would you cover up the tank? Is the plan to cut up the gas tank and use the outer shell to keep the bike looking somewhat normal? If you don't care about the look of the tank, I wonder if you could just find a plastic dirt bike tank to put on it.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
I'd just cut the bottom of the tank out, then with all the room I'd move a few things from under my seat to there.
Got the 46 back on and the lectrons are back on too, idle set at .083, needles set at 1.835 and all slides are opening together. Just waiting until Friday.
Got the 46 back on and the lectrons are back on too, idle set at .083, needles set at 1.835 and all slides are opening together. Just waiting until Friday.
L
lecroy
Guest
Yea, cutting up the tank seems like a good way to keep it looking somewhat normal. Doing this and putting in a backbone tube, you almost wouldn't tell it had been cut up. You could run the fill tube into the normal filler cap hole.
I sold off all my body parts but if you want I can check to see if I can get you a better tank. We may have one laying around in better shape than yours.
I sold off all my body parts but if you want I can check to see if I can get you a better tank. We may have one laying around in better shape than yours.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
The NOS system showed up today. The funnel jets are 20/16 so that's around 36 hp. Should be good for starters.
I also cranked up the bike today and she smoked like a weedeater. Having the needles set at 1.835 was too rich so I back them out to 1.850. If it still to rich then I'll keep backing them out at .015 intervals until it stops.
I got a feeling I'll be playing with them between rounds.
I also cranked up the bike today and she smoked like a weedeater. Having the needles set at 1.835 was too rich so I back them out to 1.850. If it still to rich then I'll keep backing them out at .015 intervals until it stops.
I got a feeling I'll be playing with them between rounds.
B
BadBillyB
Guest
Jake, the measurement of the needle is just a beginning point to put you in the ballpark for initial running. The proper way to tune these carbs, once the slide height is even all the way across, is to adjust at low RPM, basically idle. Moving the needles up and down does not affect the mids or high rpm fueling. It does however make a big difference in low rpm fuel mix.....Here are the proper steps best as I can explain. Make sure you have a very good cooling fan in front of the pipes for cooling down the header pipes between adjustments.
The process in a nutshell is to have all four carbs on the verge of being too RICH at idle. Tune each carb individually. Use the temp of the pipe to determine the fuel mixture.
Pipe Cold (too rich)
Pipe Warm (1/4 turn too rich)
Pipe Hot (after 1/4 turn lean adjustment from Pipe Warm......perfect)
Pipe Hot (too lean, unless a 1/4 turn rich adjust gives you Warm Pipe)
Basically you make an adjustment, cool the pipes down with a fan and then check adjustments with your hand feeling the pipes on initial start up. You must be quick to check all 4 in just a few seconds.
With the carbs set up this way, when you crack the throttle, there is no hesitation for lack of fuel down low. Your running on the verge of being too rich, but your not. Kind of like making up for the lack of an accelerator pump.
This is how Paul Gast told me to do it many, many years ago
Heres a chart for you
The process in a nutshell is to have all four carbs on the verge of being too RICH at idle. Tune each carb individually. Use the temp of the pipe to determine the fuel mixture.
Pipe Cold (too rich)
Pipe Warm (1/4 turn too rich)
Pipe Hot (after 1/4 turn lean adjustment from Pipe Warm......perfect)
Pipe Hot (too lean, unless a 1/4 turn rich adjust gives you Warm Pipe)
Basically you make an adjustment, cool the pipes down with a fan and then check adjustments with your hand feeling the pipes on initial start up. You must be quick to check all 4 in just a few seconds.
With the carbs set up this way, when you crack the throttle, there is no hesitation for lack of fuel down low. Your running on the verge of being too rich, but your not. Kind of like making up for the lack of an accelerator pump.
This is how Paul Gast told me to do it many, many years ago
Heres a chart for you
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Tonight at the track I was playing around with the needle height again and I don't even know Jack about them either but I will someday. Even at 1.850 it was smoking to much so I ended up at 1.900 still smoked alittle when you first opened her up but not down the track. Now I don't know what these carbs came off so I feel I do need to buy some new needles for my bike. It just seems too rich just past idle but clears up before 1/2 throttle.
Anyhow after 20 adjustments I did run a 6.09, 6.08 and a 6.06 at 113.58. Bike felt strong too. If I'm not Knocking at the 5's then I must be an idiot :?
I did have one really great launch but had a miss-shift so that could of been it :?: I'll never know.
Jake
Anyhow after 20 adjustments I did run a 6.09, 6.08 and a 6.06 at 113.58. Bike felt strong too. If I'm not Knocking at the 5's then I must be an idiot :?
I did have one really great launch but had a miss-shift so that could of been it :?: I'll never know.
Jake
RacingJake
Forum Sage
BadBillyB said:The process in a nutshell is to have all four carbs on the verge of being too RICH at idle. Tune each carb individually. Use the temp of the pipe to determine the fuel mixture.
Pipe Cold (too rich)
Pipe Warm (1/4 turn too rich)
Pipe Hot (after 1/4 turn lean adjustment from Pipe Warm......perfect)
Pipe Hot (too lean, unless a 1/4 turn rich adjust gives you Warm Pipe)
Basically you make an adjustment, cool the pipes down with a fan and then check adjustments with your hand feeling the pipes on initial start up. You must be quick to check all 4 in just a few seconds.
With the carbs set up this way, when you crack the throttle, there is no hesitation for lack of fuel down low. Your running on the verge of being too rich, but your not. Kind of like making up for the lack of an accelerator pump.
This is how Paul Gast told me to do it many, many years ago
Heres a chart for you
Thanks for the information, it helps. Right now the bike is rich at idle so I'm going to turn the needles out at 1/4 turns to try and lean it out. I'm at 1.900 right know and I do know that if I go to 1.990 that's to lean and she'll won't start. So I feel I'm in the ball park. So ever close.
