What is the best motorcycle OILS ???

[Nessism]

Unfortunately rotela is not available in the uk :sorrow:

As I understand it the UK version of Castrol GTX has a good bit of zinc and phosphorus, unlike the USA version. You might want to look up a data sheet and as long as there is 1200 ppm of those ingredients you are good to go.

 

[Guest]

Hi guys, I tried Castrol,total,shell,elf,motul,motorex,silkolene on my Suzuki GS400 '79 44000km and I found that it works best with elf moto 4 dx 20w50 (out of production,replaced with elf cruise 20w50,same thing) and with Shell AX7 15w50.
I like to have always good oil and I change it every 3500/4000km,i ride the entire year almost every day,in winter I use 15w50 and I warm the engine 2/3min,oil filter changed every 2 oil change and I put oil aditives like motorcoat LS 27.
ive found that more expensive oils like motul and silkolene doesn't work as well,the engine is louder and the shifting is rough when the engine is warm.
my engine consumes 0.7l of oil on 1000km of normal riding,consumes more if I ride it hard,do you guys have better oil consumption?

Hi Andy.

I don't have a figure for 'normal' oil consumption on a twin, but that sounds like about three times what it should be on a tight motor. The roller crank twins had rather less finning on the cylinders and tended to run hotter than the later ones. The one I had was due for rings at about 50K kilometres , but I'd run it pretty hard. Somebody ran that motor another 20k anyway.

You can get into a situation with air-cooled motors where the blowby heats the cylinder walls causing accelerated ring wear, which causes more blowby and so on. That's why it's a good idea to keep the cylinder/ring sealing tight and preserve the cylinders as long as possible. Blowby also increases oil temperature in the crankcase.

If the compression is good, oil consumption isn't so important as long as you don't end up with fouled plugs. It could also be bad intake valve guide seals, but you'd be getting lots of smoke on deceleration if that much oil was getting in that way.

 

[Andy24]

Hi Andy.

I don't have a figure for 'normal' oil consumption on a twin, but that sounds like about three times what it should be on a tight motor. The roller crank twins had rather less finning on the cylinders and tended to run hotter than the later ones. The one I had was due for rings at about 50K kilometres , but I'd run it pretty hard. Somebody ran that motor another 20k anyway.

You can get into a situation with air-cooled motors where the blowby heats the cylinder walls causing accelerated ring wear, which causes more blowby and so on. That's why it's a good idea to keep the cylinder/ring sealing tight and preserve the cylinders as long as possible. Blowby also increases oil temperature in the crankcase.

If the compression is good, oil consumption isn't so important as long as you don't end up with fouled plugs. It could also be bad intake valve guide seals, but you'd be getting lots of smoke on deceleration if that much oil was getting in that way.

I didnt measured the compression but the engine runs great,start easily and the spark plugs arent wet of oil or smell like burned oil they are light brown\grey....smokes only on really high rpm,white\blueish smoke..

 

[Guest]

I didnt measured the compression but the engine runs great,start easily and the spark plugs arent wet of oil or smell like burned oil they are light brown\grey....smokes only on really high rpm,white\blueish smoke..

Sounds like the rings just can't quite scrape enough of the oil off the cylinders when the revs are up. Probably they have got too hot and lost some of their spring tension. The ring lands may be getting loose, too. But nothing that be would worth getting too worried about. It doesn't take much different from perfect to cause a bit of oil consumption.

 

[Guest]

This guy has an interesting take on it - select an oil which gives 10psi per 1000rpm for plain bearinged engines.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
His reasoning is valid, imo, with regards to bearing flow and cooling. That dynamic wedge needs to be maintained, and a too-thick oil isn't doing as much good as you'd think.

There is one slight gotcha I've come across mentioned with synthetic oils in ball-bearinged engines - ball skid. I've been using synth for the past couple of years and can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.

I've got to read these forums more often... I laughed for about 5 minutes at that..................

 

[Andy24]

Sounds like the rings just can't quite scrape enough of the oil off the cylinders when the revs are up. Probably they have got too hot and lost some of their spring tension. The ring lands may be getting loose, too. But nothing that be would worth getting too worried about. It doesn't take much different from perfect to cause a bit of oil consumption.

I have this bike for 11000km now and the oil consumption is always the same,so i think i wont do anything until it start using more oil than this...

 

[1_v8_merc]

I've got to read these forums more often... I laughed for about 5 minutes at that..................

Bahaaaa, what do you expect from a ferrari forum? 95% of their members Never even SAT in a ferrari, just a bunch of bro-science and highschool level physics they made up in their head while they were driving their moms minivan to work.

 

[wymple]

I use 15-40 diesel oil most of the time, and sometimes a 10-40 synthetic. The very best oil, however, is clean oil. I change it often and never have come close to losing an engine or having an oil burner.

 

[Grimly]

I use 15-40 diesel oil most of the time, and sometimes a 10-40 synthetic. The very best oil, however, is clean oil. I change it often and never have have come close to losing an engine or having an oil burner.

That's about the size of it. 2K miles per change for me, over many, many miles and it's been a strategy that's demonstrated no downside so far. As it happens, 2K is about the limit for gear change feel, at least on mine. I might occasionally find an oil that's good for 3K, but not often.

 

[Gorminrider]

aye.good point. The motorcycle gearbox chops the oil up is how I read it.

 

[tkent02]

Yep, you can take it out of the bike after 2,000 miles and put it in a modern car that uses 10W-30, run it a long time.

 

[limeex2]

Bertolli extra virgin olive oil. Its Italian, so it has to better. After 3000 miles it still can be used in most recipe's from Olive Garden...

 

[Guest]

Bertolli extra virgin olive oil. Its Italian, so it has to better. After 3000 miles it still can be used in most recipe's from Olive Garden...

Grapeseed oil is better for air-cooled motors; has a higher smoke point.

 

[Juergen]

What is preferred oil for older bikes ie. 1978 Suzuki GS1000. Was told that synthetic oils even Amsoil are bad for clutches and I should stick to regular oil? I like good synthetic oil but don't want to damage bike or clutch. Or should I just use whatever I like?

You should use what you think is best for the bike. You know how it feels and reacts. I used Castrol 10-40, added 50w when the oil needed to be added on my 1982 GS1100L. Rode it up to 97,000 miles with no problems. it was ready for its fourth final drive. That bike loved to eat up the splines. To much engine for that final drive. At that time there was no synthetic.
Oh, oil is thicker when it is cold. Metal parts expand when they get hot.
My Honda CX500C 1981 is on full synthetic. It has worked wonderfully.

 

[tkent02]

I'm running squished up bananas in my 550/675. Runs fine.

 

[Guest]

I use a purple dye in my oil so folks think I use expensive Royal Purple oil...now where is that deed to the swamp land...

 

[Vesmak]

Using Mobil Delvac MX 15w-40.

https://mobildelvac.com/en

 

[JTGS850GL]

Oil??? I didn't know you even need to add oil! I'll give it a try and see if it helps.

 

[Guest]

Oil??? I didn't know you even need to add oil! I'll give it a try and see if it helps.

Squeezed banana peels...