What is this!?!?!?

[prpldude]

what is the black box with the white arrow pointing at it? the r/r unit is under the battery. so???? and what does it do? thanks in advance, Marc.

 

[KitKat]

that might be the ignition box. mine looks similar.

but i might be (and probably am) wrong. if there is a part number on it, which there was on mine, google it and you should come up with something.

Hope this helps

 

[Steve]

Actually, newGS300Lowner, you are correct. :clap: :clap:

That is your ignitor. It receives signals from the triggers on the right end of the crank and uses them to control current flow to the coils, making sparks at the plugs in the process.

.

 

[prpldude]

I thought that might be what is was, but I tried finding "ignitor" for gs850glt in the fiches and could not find one.

When I took my bike apart last month and cleaned up the electrical I took the ignitor apart and it looked like crap inside. burnt traces, one of the screws had solder all around it and the PCB looked charred.

I want to replace it when I do my stator and r/r. I'll have to find out how much it is.

thanks for the help :0)

 

[TheCafeKid]

I thought that might be what is was, but I tried finding "ignitor" for gs850glt in the fiches and could not find one.

When I took my bike apart last month and cleaned up the electrical I took the ignitor apart and it looked like crap inside. burnt traces, one of the screws had solder all around it and the PCB looked charred.

I want to replace it when I do my stator and r/r. I'll have to find out how much it is.

thanks for the help :0)

NOT cheap. OEM NOS (if they're available) are over 300 bucks... Better start shopping ebay. I would think just about ANY GS one would work, but to get one that just plugs right in, you'll have to find one from an 850 very likely. Maybe the 1000G/1100G may have used the same, i dunno..

 

[Texas Don]

Try looking on the fiche for "signal generator" instead of ignitor. This is a solid state device and as such, is not prone to partial failure. It either works or it doesn't. Never mind the looks part. A new one wouldn't add one bit of performance enhancement and would only be money thrown away. As long as it works, you're good to go. Spend your money on something else.
Don

 

[ptm]

It's on the Signal Generator page.

Part # = 32900-45110
Part Description = IGNITER UNIT
Fits the following:

GS1000ET 1980 1000 GS1000E STREET
GS850GT 1980 844 GS850G STREET
GS850GLT 1980 844 GS850GL STREET
GS750ET 1980 748 GS750E STREET
GS750LT 1980 748 GS750L STREET
GS1000GT 1980 1000 GS1000G STREET
GS1000ST 1980 1000 GS1000S STREET
GS850GLX 1981 844 GS850GL STREET
GS850GX 1981 844 GS850G STREET
GS1000GLX 1981 1000 GS1000GL STREET
GS1000GX 1981 1000 GS1000G STREET
GS750EX 1981 748 GS750E STREET
GS750LX 1981 748 GS750L STREET
X4481T UK UK X4481T UK
X4571T UK UK X4571T UK

superseded by Part # = 32900-45411
Which fits the following:

GS750ET 1980 748 GS750E STREET
GS750LT 1980 748 GS750L STREET
GS1000GT 1980 1000 GS1000G STREET
GS1000ST 1980 1000 GS1000S STREET
GS850GLT 1980 844 GS850GL STREET
GS850GT 1980 844 GS850G STREET
GS1000ET 1980 1000 GS1000E STREET
GS750EX 1981 748 GS750E STREET
GS850GLX 1981 844 GS850GL STREET
GS1000GX 1981 1000 GS1000G STREET
GS1000GLX 1981 1000 GS1000GL STREET
GS850GX 1981 844 GS850G STREET
GS750LX 1981 748 GS750L STREET
GS850GLZ 1982 844 GS850GL STREET
GSX750EZ 1982 747 GSX750E STREET
GS1100EZ 1982 1100 GS1100E STREET
GS750TZ 1982 748 GS750T STREET
GSX750TD 1983 747 GSX750T STREET
GS1100ED 1983 1100 GS1100E STREET
GSX750SD 1983 747 GSX750S KATANA SPORT


Superseded by 32900-45120 which fits the same as above. It's ~$450 new from Suzuki. Much less on eBay...

Good luck.

 

[prpldude]

Ok ty for all the help.
could it be intermittent?
The cycle quit on me yesterday as if I had hit the kill switch.
I can not reproduce the problem.
It ran fine today.
The clutch and kickstand (if it had one) safety start thing have been bypassed by the PO.

 

[Texas Don]

Absolutely it could be intermittent but it is far more likely that you have a poor connection in your wiring harness. Don't get in the habit of replacing parts on a whim. It's expensive and isn't guaranteed to solve a problem. Be able to condemn a part based on physical evaluation or repeatable test results. Igniters aren't something that you can check and verify without some pretty sophisticated test equipment. It's one of those items where you have to eliminate every other possibility, before finally replacing one. Think of it this way. Would you feel better with a new $450.00 igniter in your ride if it quit on you again? The ignition circuit isn't at all complicated. The crank trigger sends a pulse to the igniter that causes it to provide a ground path for current to flow from one of the coils at a time. The coil discharges it's energy in the form of a high voltage potential through the spark plug, thereby igniting the fuel vapor in the cylinder. I would recommend that you clean and verify every connection on that loop for both coils. Also, since the igniter provides a ground path for the trigger signal, verify that all of your grounding points are clean and providing a solid connection. These bikes are famous for doing a swoon without a clean working ground path. I'm willing to bet that by just cleaning all of your connections and repairing/replacing any suspect connectors, that your intermittent problem will be resolved.
Don

Ok ty for all the help.
could it be intermittent?
The cycle quit on me yesterday as if I had hit the kill switch.
I can not reproduce the problem.
It ran fine today.
The clutch and kickstand (if it had one) safety start thing have been bypassed by the PO.

 

[prpldude]

Don, ty again. Yes I want to get to the root of the issue not just replace parts.

I went through and cleaned all the wires and connections (to the best of my ability) last week. I rechecked the connections last night.
I tested the stator and r/r and need to replace both.
stator is grounded out on one leg and has not reading when tested with the other two legs.
R/R has no reading from red wire to any of the three yellows with red multimeter lead connected to red r/r wire and black lead connected to yellows. but when I reverse the leads I get good reading.
I've checked quite a few of the ground wires resistance and they seem to all be good. I will be going back through everything in the next few days while I wait for parts to redo stator and r/r.

 

[Texas Don]

Forgive me if I missed your earlier posts about the stator being dead. Without enough potential being applied to the coils, your bike will just suddenly shut down as completely as if you had put a bullet through the block. With the stator reading a ground on one leg and no voltage on the other 2 legs, it's bought the farm. Your R/R unit may very well be good. Solid state devices will pass current in one direction and block it in the other. That's why you will get a high reading with your leads connected one way and a low reading if you reverse the leads on the same connections. Don't be too quick to condemn it without checking it with a new stator installed. Your readings on the R/R unit appear normal. You could still have a bad diode in the unit, but you can't tell that until you can get your new stator installed and then read the dc voltage output at the R/R unit. Cleaning of the wires and connections is just a dirty, thankless job for the most part. Radio Shack and other electronic supply businesses carry terminal cleaners that are excellent. Just spray the cleaner on and let it work for a few minutes. Then rinse with clean water from a spray bottle. Finally, dry with compressed air and reassemble. On grounding points, either use a fine file or a wire brush to clean the metal beneath the contact point. Clean the contactor which is usually just a ring terminal, and reassemble. Some people recommend the use of a dielectric grease which is formulated to keep moisture away from the connection point when you reconnect your plugs, etc. It's also readily available from an electronic supply store.
Don

Don, ty again. Yes I want to get to the root of the issue not just replace parts.

I went through and cleaned all the wires and connections (to the best of my ability) last week. I rechecked the connections last night.
I tested the stator and r/r and need to replace both.
stator is grounded out on one leg and has not reading when tested with the other two legs.
R/R has no reading from red wire to any of the three yellows with red multimeter lead connected to red r/r wire and black lead connected to yellows. but when I reverse the leads I get good reading.
I've checked quite a few of the ground wires resistance and they seem to all be good. I will be going back through everything in the next few days while I wait for parts to redo stator and r/r.