• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

What paint gun?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Nessism said:
The answer depends on what kind of material you are going to spray; thick primers and clears need larger tip than base coats and sealers which are thin. This is why the pro's have more than one gun. I?ve gotten by with a 1.0 tip but I?m inclined to recommend a 1.2 since you can always regulate it down. With the 1.0 tip I reduce the mixture until it?s the proper viscosity for my gun. This may not be the best method but it works fine most of the time.
Click to expand...

I measured my cheapy HF gun. It appears to be closer to 0.8mm diameter (at the nozzle) than any thing else. It does take alot of passes to get a sufficent coating, so I will bump it up to 1.0mm with the new Astrogun.
 
0.8mm is what most lph50 knock-offs come with that I have seen.

mine also came with the 0.8mm tip size. it also takes quite a few coats for complete hiding.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/PICT1990.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/PICT2000.jpg
posplayr said:
How to measure pressure at the Cup?
Click to expand...
it's pressure measured at the "cap" with air flowing (air cap=the thing on the front of the gun). it takes a special adapter to measure pressure at the cap. don't worry about it. if you have the pressure properly set to manufacturers spec's it should be 10 psi at the cap. you don't need to worry about maintaining 10 psi at the cap, if it doesn't atomize the paint to your liking, crank up the pressure @ the gun and readjust the gun till you get what you want out of the pattern.

the reason for having 10 psi @ the cap is to maintain the 65% transfer efficiency you get with hvlp. higher pressure just means the paint droplets get slapped around a little bit more. :D

***edit***
my EVO4014 spec's are 10 psi at the cap @ 25 psi gun inlet pressure. it sprays the best when set somewhere around 28 psi inlet pressure. (depending on temp/material/...)
 
Last edited:
Linkey... http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Sharpe/Sharpe Finex 1000.html

***************************************************************
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Finex+FX1000

Finex FX1000 with a 1.0mm tip... http://www.tooltopia.com/sharpe-289200.aspx (plus shipping)

other sizes are available... http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=&manufacturer=752&category=4063

for those of you that demand the very best!!!! http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Iwata/LPH400Student.html (be still my heart!)
(my EVO4014 is a knock-off of this model)
EVO4014>>> http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneumatic-evo4014.aspx


lph50... http://www.anest-iwata.com/products/manual-hvlp-specialty-gravity.cfm?series=LPH50
(my Zhipp is a knock-off of this)
 
Last edited:
I must confess. I have been reading this thread and researching quiet a bit. :)

Seems like I might go with this.

Devilbiss, 1mm on fluid tip on the touch-up gun, might like an 0.8mm, but the full gun comes with a 1.3mm and 1.8mm fluid tips. Nice kit for the money. Need a compressor to support, which is not a problem.

http://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-auto-paint-and-touch-up-system.html


Seems pretty much like a nice versitile system, although no repair parts possibly..

$139, but seen Amazon has some at $119. Not sure the tips and needles.


I believe most guns will do the job, suppose it really depends on the paint, painter, yes, and besides once one does have a perfect painted part.....

Then what?

If it is not cared for, it does not make much a difference. $10k gun, best paint job, but rub a jacket button across the paint sort of thought. :eek:

Winter in SB, Jim....... lol
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
Linkey... http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Sharpe/Sharpe Finex 1000.html

***************************************************************
Click to expand...

I have been looking for reviews on this gun and found this that seems to answer the questions about "taking care" of your gun.



http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11780

I own and operate a body shop and the finex gun by sharpe is a very good gun , mine is 1.5 as far as cleaning the gun CLEAN THE LID WITH URETHANE GRADE REDUCER !! for the money the finex is as good if not better than a iwata , besides if you mess the gasket up on the lid a brand new lid is only 8 dollars and my gun was only 102.00 cant beat that for the pattern that the gun lays down , i mean you can replace alot of lids for this gun compared to the cost of others such as iwata , sata and others .JUST TAKE CARE IN CLEANING THE FINEX AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS DUE TO NOT PROPER CLEANING GET A NEOPREME O RING. TO SUM THIS UP THE FINEX IS A 8 ON A SCALE OF 1-10 BUT IT'S NOT FOR THE CARELESS USER WHO DOSNT TAKE PROPER CARE IN THE CLEANING PROCESS. C'MON YOU HAVE TO HAVE URETHANE REDUCER IF YOU KNOW WHATS UP WITH HIGH SOLIDS. I HAVE SATA GUNS SHARPE PLATINUM -ALL HVLP OF COURSE BUT IM USING THE FINEX .
Click to expand...

What is "URETHANE GRADE REDUCER"?

http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CB0QrQQwAg
 
Last edited:
I use regular lacquer thinner (cheap grade) stuff to clean my guns and have never had a problem with them gumming up.
 
Nessism said:
I use regular lacquer thinner (cheap grade) stuff to clean my guns and have never had a problem with them gumming up.
Click to expand...

There is a O ring issue that the Neoprene O ring apparently solves on the Finex gun.
 
Pos, I'm guessing the need to use a "urethane reducer" to clean the gun, is because of the material the lid is made out of. I don't think it can handle lacquer thinner.

wait and see what the manufacturer recommends to clean the gun with.

there are all sorts of "reducers" (aka> thinners) for thinning enamels, urethanes.
he just stated to make sure you use a urethane reducer.
 
rustybronco said:
Let's see??? can your HF spray a 9" pattern? for that matter can two of them held side by side? :eek:

it's already lost...
Click to expand...

Probably 3" :o, but that is why I have 4 of them (3"x4=12" ). :p


Well they are great for doing Por-15 sprays and primer not something you want to use a $100-$200 gun on.
 
thanks guys.

i think i'll go for a touch up gun with smaller CFM requirement as that should keep the compressor cost down and should be sufficient for an ocassional small paint job

i've sent an enquiry on the shipping costs for this one: (hope the shipping's not a killer...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustybronco
Psyguy,

or this mini gun>>>>> http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...-%20AP4020.htm P/n 4020-1 (1.0mm tip) P/n 4020-12 (1.2 mm tip)

That's the one I'd get if you are on a budget. :D
Click to expand...
 
psyguy said:
thanks guys.

i think i'll go for a touch up gun with smaller CFM requirement as that should keep the compressor cost down and should be sufficient for an ocassional small paint job

i've sent an enquiry on the shipping costs for this one: (hope the shipping's not a killer...)
Click to expand...

The Salesman at Spray world recommended the Finnex 1000 mentioned above over the one that Rusty recommended; I think Rusty (Dale0 is looking at getting the Finnex as well as the cost will be basically the same but much better performance. I have received it an it is very nice quality although I have not used it yet.

The Finnex 1000 has a relatively low 7.0 SCFM at 29 psi which I assume is at 1.4mm, and will come down for the 1.0mm that I got (by area, the 1.0mm should be 1/2 the volume of the 1.4mm) That should have me requiring 3.5 CFM at 29 psi. My HF unit is 3.5 CFM at 50.0

This is the compressor I have that is rated 7.0 CFM at 40 psi. So with a cheap regulator at the gun, it works very well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94667

I will continue to use this gun for Por-15 and engine coatings but reserve the Finnex for the base and clear coats on body work.

20-50 PSI operating pressure; Air consumption: 3 CFM @ 50 PSI; 1/4" air inlet
Click to expand...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92126

The finish on the body of the gun is a beautify dark smoke grey nickle finish. The other parts have a blue annodized. The cup is polished spun aluminum.

Mine dropped shipped out of LA.
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
The Salesman at Spray world recommended the Finnex 1000 mentioned above over the one that Rusty recommended; I think Rusty (Dale0 is looking at getting the Finnex as well as the cost will be basically the same but much better performance. I have received it an it is very nice quality although I have not used it yet.

The Finnex 1000 has a relatively low 7.0 SCFM at 29 psi which I assume is at 1.4mm, and will come down for the 1.0mm that I got (by area, the 1.0mm should be 1/2 the volume of the 1.4mm) That should have me requiring 3.5 CFM at 29 psi. My HF unit is 3.5 CFM at 50.0

This is the compressor I have that is rated 7.0 CFM at 40 psi. So with a cheap regulator at the gun, it works very well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94667

I will continue to use this gun for Por-15 and engine coatings but reserve the Finnex for the base and clear coats on body work.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92126

The finish on the body of the gun is a beautify dark smoke grey nickle finish. The other parts have a blue annodized. The cup is polished spun aluminum.

Mine dropped shipped out of LA.
Click to expand...

Wow! Very nice Jim!

Please report back after you get a chance to try it out. Looks like that gun has a fair number of adjustments so have fun with that. :D
 
Nessism said:
Wow! Very nice Jim!

Please report back after you get a chance to try it out. Looks like that gun has a fair number of adjustments so have fun with that. :D
Click to expand...

Yes Ed, but need to wait for a little dryer weather :o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top