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What size torque wrench?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jace09
  • Start date Start date
J

jace09

Guest
I am gather tools so i can change the seals on my 82 GS850, and i need to know what poundage the bolts need to torqued at. I dont want to spend a ton of money on a 50+ pound torque wrech when i can have a 20 or 30 pounder.

Thanks

P.S. I am going to get the manitence manuel this week.
 
Which "seals" are you changing? :-k

Very few "seals" require a torque wrench.

However, generally-speaking, two wrenches will handle most of the bike's needs.
A 3/8" drive with a capacity up to 80 lb/ft and a 1/4" drive with a capacity of 200 inch-pounds.

Incidentally, both of these are on sale at Harbor Freight for $20. :D

.
 
I miss spoke, i am meaning the gasket. I am going to have to change out the gasket for the header and cam sections.

I posted my intial problems here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=198528

I will start with a carb rebuild and cleaning, then move on down the engine replacing the gaskets as i go. Like i said in that post, while running i watch bubbles form at the gasket in the picture. Also in other areas the gaskets are frayed and fanning out. Oh and i get smoke from all around the upper motor when its been run for an hour. Not to mention the idle creep from 1k to 3k.

I just hope i am not getting in over my head.
 
As pointed out in your other thread, find the source of the leak before you go gung-ho on tearing everything apart.

Clean the engine first, so you will be able to see any fresh leaks. Ride it for a bit to see if it leaks. As mentioned in the other thread, it might be a valve cover gasket that is leaking down, it might be a tach seal that is leaking down and blowing sideways. It might also be as simple as re-torquing the head, no gasket needed there, but the engine does need to be cold to do that.

Your creeping idle is likely due to bad o-rings between your intake boots and the cylinder head. Get those along with the o-rings for the carbs from cycleorings.com.

.
 
Steve said:
Which "seals" are you changing? :-k

Very few "seals" require a torque wrench.

However, generally-speaking, two wrenches will handle most of the bike's needs.
A 3/8" drive with a capacity up to 80 lb/ft and a 1/4" drive with a capacity of 200 inch-pounds.

Incidentally, both of these are on sale at Harbor Freight for $20. :D

.
Click to expand...

i keep getting tempted to buy these as i have neither and keep borrowing from a neighbor.

then i read some of the reviews.

are these really made where only 50% of them work properly, or do only 50% of people know how to use a torque wrench?
 
the schwartz said:
i keep getting tempted to buy these as i have neither and keep borrowing from a neighbor.

then i read some of the reviews.

are these really made where only 50% of them work properly, or do only 50% of people know how to use a torque wrench?
Click to expand...

The latter statement is correct. :(

Eric
 
Recommended Torque Wrenches

Recommended Torque Wrenches

Hey All,

Hope it's alright to post to this thread. Seemed relevant and better than starting another one.

I'm building up my tools, to be able to properly do all the work on my GS. I need to get a torque wrench so I can make sure the head nuts are all good. 5-80lb seems to be the consensus; at least for my first torque wrench.

I don't know much about them so please forgive me if I'm being a newb! My understanding is there are "click" style ones and whatever the standard ones are called, "locking" maybe?

Which kind do you recommend? The cheap ones all seem to be click style which makes me skeptical that I won't hear/feel it, and end up over tightening. I usually just tighten things snugly and never go over board, but I guess it's time to grow up and do it pro style.

What do you think about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-944002-8-Inch-Micrometer-Torque/dp/B001EQI65K

Seems like a good deal and the right range.

Thanks a ton.
 
Looks like that specific one is not 5-80lbs after all..

Excerpted from a review on Amazon:
I only received it and haven't had a chance to put it through the paces yet but a quick head's up comment is in order for now. NB: this torque wrench is 10-100 ft-lb range and NOT 5-80 or dual-scale as indicated on Amazon and/or all over the internet.

Arg! Can you guys steer me to something good please?
 
Go with the type that clicks. You will be able to feel/hear it. Its much easier in awkward spots to feel/listen for the click than it is to look at a needle on a guage.
 
Get a good quality torque wrench, I would not buy those at Harbor Freight, I know I have one. it's crap, I nearly stripped out a shock bolt that was suppose to be at 25ftlbs. It never clicked and when I checked it with my old Beam type is was over 50lbs. I shoulda just bought the one I wanted at Sears.
 
Yea I didn't buy one of those because I was worried about the mechanism not being very good. Thanks for the input.
 
tkent02 said:
I have had worse luck with sears torque wrenches.
Click to expand...

Same here. The ratchet broke, and torque wrenches aren't covered by the Craftsman warranty. Sure, I was using it as a breaker bar, but I had it set to the highest torque setting so it would tell me when to quit and find something bigger. It didn't click before it gave up.

I have all three sizes from HF. No problems. All 3 cost less than the one Craftsman.
 
Dogma said:
Sure, I was using it as a breaker bar, but I had it set to the highest torque setting so it would tell me when to quit and find something bigger.
Click to expand...

:clap:

haha. and that is why they are not covered by the craftsman warranty.:-\\\
Are craftsman breaker bars covered by the warranty?


I have yee old mastercraft, which I believe is the same as Husky and a few others, bought on sale.
 
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