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What the fastest way to clean caked on carbon?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oshanac
  • Start date Start date
So water really works on a running motor bike? Never knew, I just figured you were taking a jab-things that make you go hmmmm... That good to know.

It looks like the walnut shell way is the easiest (no srubbing, scratching). When you say you have to get under the valves, does that mean I need a valve spring compressor too ($135.00:mad:) to get under there-or am I using crouching tiger-kicking dragon thumb power to hold it down long enough to get under there? I plan on checking all the valves. This will be my first inspection/gauging and adjustment (if needed). Is this a tool I'll need anyway, or is there some old mechanic's trick to safely remove them.

I guess I can just rent a big compressor one day (cheaper than convincing the off duty supervisor that I need one-hey, pick your battles right?) and pick up a HF/Ebay media blaster, along with 50# of walnut.
 
Do you need a "special" blaster for SODA? It seems most of Harbor Freights blasters say "Use with walnut shell, glass bead, or aluminum oxide abrasive media "?
 
oshanac said:
Do you need a "special" blaster for SODA? It seems most of Harbor Freights blasters say "Use with walnut shell, glass bead, or aluminum oxide abrasive media "?
Click to expand...

You don't need a special blaster for soda, but be aware that it can clump and clog with moisture. It would probably be best with an in-line dryer, but it seems to me that you can compensate for it by running the larger orifice nozzle. Clean it out afterwards too, particularly if you're using one of the handheld hopper guns like the Speed Blaster. I managed to clog a cheapo, non-serviceable, Princess Auto siphon-feed hopper gun.

I've had some success using a siphon parts-washer blow gun as a soda blaster. It's a cheap way to try it out and see if it's something you want to continue doing. The idea is the same as this http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/, but you can buy cheap blow guns with a T for the siphon hose.

One machine shop guy I know always burns off and crisps up the carbon on pistons and cylinder heads, then soda blasts off the remainder. (Soda blasting seems to work best at removing hard bits, rather than soft or oily). He uses an oxyacetylene torch to get the carbon glowing, then leans out the flame with the oxygen to get it to burn off. I haven't tried that yet with my MAPP gas and oxygen brazing torch, but plan to when I get around to buying an oxygen refill.

- Richard
 
WATER DOES WORK, I have done that method a dozen times with 100% satisfaction.
Anyway, if you have the head off, you pay shipping both ways, send it to me and I'll glass bead it and I'll even take the valves out too and regrind them back in and it will look like new inside and out.
 
I agree with Phil

I agree with Phil

That media blasting will clean the head better than wallnut shells. I just don't think (and have been told) you should NOT blast the seats unless you plan on grinding them. The wallnuts do little if any damage and can be used right on seats and only lapping afterwards.

Pos
 
Billy Ricks said:
Too bad you can't still get carbon tetrachloride. Some gun cleaners used to be basically the same as carbon tet and Energine Spot Remover was too. Not anymore though. I have a can of carbon tet I'm saving in case I ever have a special need for it.
Click to expand...
Best get that can down to the Bank Vault now that you have told everyone you have it.
 
ahh just leave it on there
a quick and cheap way of increasing your compression haha
 
Thank you so much FEELERGAUGEPHIL for the offer! I really want to to the whole thing myself though. Just a note, I had the head upside down in my garage. On the chamber side (valve side) I had one with Goo-Bee-Gone BBQ cleaner, one with Engine Degreaser, one with carb cleaner. Believe it on not-just lightly scratching it, the BBQ cleaner (it's a gel) is kicking azz! I'm sure it won't look anywhere near as good as other methods, but hey-its less walnut shells to use!
 
I just wanted to throw my support behind the water guys. Running at fast idle let some water in a vaccum port, or somehow get it through the carbs. Instant steam clean inside the chamber.

Ever see an engine with a leaky head gasket and coolant gets in the cylinders? They are always spotless!! Same thing.

Save yourself the work and expense. Just use some tap water.
 
I just wanted to throw my support behind the water guys. Running at fast idle let some water in a vaccum port, or somehow get it through the carbs. Instant steam clean inside the chamber.

Ever see an engine with a leaky head gasket and coolant gets in the cylinders? They are always spotless!! Same thing.

Save yourself the work and expense. Just use some tap water.
Click to expand...

Sounds like this should be a standard maintenance item at say every 10K miles? Any dangers? Is this just a mist I assume what RPM?
 
posplayr said:
Sounds like this should be a standard maintenance item at say every 10K miles? Any dangers? Is this just a mist I assume what RPM?
Click to expand...

Disclaimer: Most of my experience is with car engines. I see no reason why the same principals would not apply to motorcycle engines except that they are typically smaller displacement.

I doubt it would be needed that often on a bike properly tuned using good gas. This is something you do to the neglected barn find.

The way I have used it in the past is to SLOWLY pour water in the carb or sip water through a vaccum tube, maybe a tea spoon at a time. On the horizontal carbs a squirt gun would probably make the job easier. You need to run the engine at high enough RPM that it doesn't die by itself, try it at idle first. Water doesnt burn so it will run terrible. It needs to be warmed up already so it is hot enough to vaporize the water.

Dangers? If you dump a cup of water in the engine it will hydrolock and destroy your engine. A little goes a long way here. You may want to change the oil shortly afterwards or ride it long enough to boil the water out of the sump, some water will get past your rings.

This is the same principal that SeaFoam uses, except you don't get quite as much of the smoke and smell. For those of you who beleive in SeaFoam, I am not saying this is a replacement for it... For the rest of us this is a replacement for SeaFoam.
 
POsplayer-that's freaking hillarious! :clap:

Mark-I had a buddy hydrolock his motor from an air intake too low in his car. Thank you for making a mention about the dangers.

Now, since it seems you are playing with fire on this-wouldn't it be best to just use a spray bottle on all the carbs? I mean, we know a cup it too much, but how many oz's is safe? I don't think anyone wants to bet THEIR bike on that one. Would spraying only the spray bottle in a warmed up bike be o.k. guys? Thanks
 
oshanac said:
Now, since it seems you are playing with fire on this-wouldn't it be best to just use a spray bottle on all the carbs? I mean, we know a cup it too much, but how many oz's is safe? I don't think anyone wants to bet THEIR bike on that one. Would spraying only the spray bottle in a warmed up bike be o.k. guys? Thanks
Click to expand...


I dont think you could hydrolock an engine with a squirt gun if you tried.
 
Acetone will eat ANYTHING off of aluminum. Gaskets, seals, grease, sludge, burnt crusty carbon, anything... will not harm the aluminum...
 
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