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What type of motor oil should I use?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KSP
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K

KSP

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Did a search on this but didn't find exactly what I wanted. I have a 1983 GS650GLD and the book says I should use SA 10W40 motor oil. I just ordered some Belray oil and it cam SAE 10W40. The question is does it matter in these older bikes what type of oil to use? Just got this bike and just got back into motorcycles after a long time a way so I could use any help you have to offer. Thanks \\:D/
 
Did a search on this but didn't find exactly what I wanted. I have a 1983 GS650GLD and the book says I should use SA 10W40 motor oil. I just ordered some Belray oil and it cam SAE 10W40. The question is does it matter in these older bikes what type of oil to use? Just got this bike and just got back into motorcycles after a long time a way so I could use any help you have to offer. Thanks \\:D/
Just don't use any of the energy saving oils with anti-friction additives. They are hard on the clutch. Shell Rotella seems to be popular.
 
I've used Castrol 10W-40 for years with good results in my Suzukis.
 
They just had a sale on some delightful Extra Virgin Olive Oil at the Kroger so I opted out for a pure cold pressed oil this time...DELISH! :shock:
 
Thanks for the replys. So specifically, does the SA or SAE rating make a difference then. I really don't know the difeerences between the two types. Can I use the Belray SAE 10W40 oil since I have already bought it? I can easily go to Rotella next oil change since it is easy to find here.
 
Thanks for the replys. So specifically, does the SA or SAE rating make a difference then. I really don't know the difeerences between the two types. Can I use the Belray SAE 10W40 oil since I have already bought it? I can easily go to Rotella next oil change since it is easy to find here.
Belray is great oil, a little expensive but it is motorcycle specific. Most of the oils today have higher ratings than were around when our bikes were built. Just avoid the energy star on the label and oils with anti-friction additives.
 
Belray is great oil, a little expensive but it is motorcycle specific. Most of the oils today have higher ratings than were around when our bikes were built. Just avoid the energy star on the label and oils with anti-friction additives.

Ok sounds good. I just needed to know that the Belray would work this time. I will probably change to something I can find locally.
 
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Good stuff but I run 10w40 of a different "for bikes" brand

I'm not a current believer in automobile/diesel oil in bikes as many here are, modern oils aren't the same as they used to be a decade or more ago and with current and near future EPA regulations I'm sure the oils of now and the future are better at friction reduction which is good for motor longevity but clutches work on friction. So I'll stick with a oil made with the mindset that a clutch is going to be bathed with it.

As for diesel, 2008 is the year of tighter emission standards for diesel and I'm pretty sure the top diesel oil manufacturers are going to adjust their formula to ensure top compatibility with the new engines and emission standards.
 
Pennzoil 10W-40, I figure it worked then why not now! Besides, that is what it says on the oil filler cap..........old school I guess...

Scud
 
Just about any oil made specifically for motorcycles will get the job done. They are all very good. I have been using the Honda HP4 in all my bikes the last few years, but have used motul, belray, spectro,etc...

Most important is not to run a car oil in a wet-sump bike with shared engine and trans oil. Bike oil has tiny zinc/copper metal particle additives that act like cushions to keep the crushing action of the gears from breaking down the molecular structure of the oil. It is possible under extreme conditions for a GS to break down a car type oil in under a 1000 miles.
 
Just about any oil made specifically for motorcycles will get the job done. They are all very good. I have been using the Honda HP4 in all my bikes the last few years, but have used motul, belray, spectro,etc...

Most important is not to run a car oil in a wet-sump bike with shared engine and trans oil. Bike oil has tiny zinc/copper metal particle additives that act like cushions to keep the crushing action of the gears from breaking down the molecular structure of the oil. It is possible under extreme conditions for a GS to break down a car type oil in under a 1000 miles.

Blarney! I've been using car or one of the diesel oils oil in my bike for the last 83,000 miles. I'll bet the original owner used it the first 15,000 miles, too. 98,000 total and still running strong.
 
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Most important is not to run a car oil in a wet-sump bike with shared engine and trans oil. Bike oil has tiny zinc/copper metal particle additives that act like cushions to keep the crushing action of the gears from breaking down the molecular structure of the oil. It is possible under extreme conditions for a GS to break down a car type oil in under a 1000 miles.
Sir, mam..
you need to do some home work before making that statement.

Troll?
 
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