What's going on in your garage? Part II

[RacingJake]

It could of been that too, can't remmember how many times I'd played with the cam timing....it was alot.

That head at a friend's machine shop, he's going to weld a bead for the GS cam guide to stay put. I should get it back by next week.

I also found some 28mm freeze plugs that should work to plug up the oil return holes in the head. Once those 2 things are done then it's RTV time for the block, rear cam tunnel and valve cover.

I'm also going with a 530 chain conversion to reduce rotating weight and also save 2 pounds using a 530 chain.

It's getting there....

 

[lecroy]

New spacer (aluminum) with other gaskets. Parts made it in from Schnitz as well. Started putting more of it together then noticed I had forgotten to order a couple of parts. More waiting......

The spacer alone will get me a deck height of 0.010. Next to it is a 0.005" gasket. Plan to just run the spacer. The bike needs as much help as it can get coming out of the hole. It's so lame....

 

[lecroy]

I bought a set of slotted gears from XXX that did not fit quite.....

LOL, came across the box, XXX = Cir-Cycle out of Cleveland. Now this is going back a few years......

My latest eBay purchase. The E cylinder. $30, holds about 7.5 pounds. Little tank I bought at a swap meet about 30 years ago for $10. I think it was $20 or so to have them recertified. I always get the strange looks when it comes time to refill. Plan to shift off the nitrous this year. Tried it out last month and it works like a charm. So the air tank is no more.

 

[Guest]

New spacer (aluminum) with other gaskets. Parts made it in from Schnitz as well. Started putting more of it together then noticed I had forgotten to order a couple of parts. More waiting......

The spacer alone will get me a deck height of 0.010. Next to it is a 0.005" gasket. Plan to just run the spacer. The bike needs as much help as it can get coming out of the hole. It's so lame....

Those gaskets/spacer look nice! Hopefully mine will be arriving from cometic by the end of the weekend.... Mine's a little thicker though... .188"

 

[rosco15]

Man I'm so stuck. I waited too late to order some of the parts I need. Got the cases back in the frame, but can't go any further. I'm waiting on the new cometic gaskets and new rings for my pistons. Also have a new rear sprocket on the way due to my primary gear change. From 750 to 1100.

I'm hoping the rest of the parts I need come next week.

 

[lecroy]

We have way too much snow to worry about racing just yet.

We got the cylinders back for the street bike. We were going to use a stock base, but it puts the pistons about 42 in the hole! It has the small sleves so we need to get some copper ones ordered for it.

I went to check the new clutch and noticed that with no shim it was over 0.030"!! I started looking then remember this was an 82, before they used the shims. Had to put a newer bearing into it then was able to shim it back to 0.06mm. Looks pretty good. If yours is still tight Ryan, I asked what they were setting the sliders to and I guess it is around 0.006", so pretty sloppy. I am not sure why they set them this loose.

The two one cylinder engines...

This is the optical pickup for the Martek ignition I mentioned. You can just see the lens. This was before I ever even heard of Dyna, late 70's. High tech for it's day for sure.

 

[RacingJake]

File down the lip on my V&H pro pipe and they went right in the Katana head.

Since I'm not running bars this year and if I mount them this way it should help prevent wheelies due to the hot expanding gases jet force thingy......I think :-k

 

[lecroy]

I would mount the motor upside down. Better lube for the top end. Don't forget the move the vent hole...

 

[lecroy]

I was talking about setting the stackup in the clutch and someone has asked how to do it. I am pretty old school about this stuff so if you have a better way fill us in....

Ok, lets start by explaining what I am talking about. The newer (83 and up) GS used different parts in the clutch bearing assembly than the older types and requires shims to get the stackup. Say you buy a new basket with a Falicon SC gear and put it into your 82. It's going to fit just fine, except if you measure it, it would be way out of spec. This is the problem I ran into with that little street bike I am working on. So I ditched the old 82 parts and put some 84 parts in.

Timing was good for this. I had torqued the street bike, but my engine is still waiting on a few parts so the clutch is out. Picture time....

This first picture shows all the parts that make up the clutch. They are mounted left to right. If we call these A - L (left to right), E being the basket, G is really the only part that changes. The older GS's had a wider bearing. Part H is the shim. Notice there is a paper bag of shims just above it. These are all stock OEM parts you can buy. I think there are 5 sizes. Or you can grind your own.

The manuals used to talk about placing the parts on a table to make the measurement. I never did it this way. Instead I run a bolt through the assembly.

Here you can see the shim.

There is no reason to put any more parts once the larger bearing has been installed. Yes, that is a buffer wheel washer. Helps to keep things in the center....

From the backside, I slide the feeler gauge between the oil pump gear and the basket. This is supposed to be 0.08mm (I think) max. I always try to get this around 0.06mm. Shims are hard to tell apart unless you mark them. I don't so I use the calipers to figure out which one is which. I start with the thickest shim. See how sloppy it is then pick the one I want to use. I take it back apart, put the new shim in and remeasure it.

I just finger tighten the nut/bolt that holds the assembly together.

I guess that's it. Hope this helps.

 

[lecroy]

Stupid 4 picture limit.....

Oh yea, one last little catch. I am for sure no expert on this, but my friends who I help out with all run sliders. They were friends with Tony (introduced me at one time, nice guy) and I guess they set these up a little loose. I am in the mode where I just do what I am told when I work on their bikes, but from what I remember they want the basket a little loose to keep it from binding in the outside bearing that supports the hat. I understand that 0.006" is the magic number, but don't hold me to it.

 

[lecroy]

Ran into a bit of a snag with the new transmission but was finally was able to get the clutch basket torqued and put the pistons in. I also installed the custom APE pins. These should handle anything I can throw at them. They made me two sets, so if they work out I plan to upgrade my other engine to them as well.

The bell is only on there so I can roll it over by hand. I gave up on eBay and plan to have my old 1100 head rebuilt. She was leaking pretty bad towards the end.

 

[RacingJake]

Looking good Mark

I'm still waiting on a few more parts. The good news is the track open's this Friday night for points. Looks like I'll be riding the Sporty, she may be slow but she's deadly if you know what I mean :mrgreen:

 

[Baatfam]

Very pretty!!

I don't know about you guys....but I can't wait to get goin'...\\/

Bob T.

 

[lecroy]

Did some work on the street bike. Got the unbreakable cam chain guide swapped, mounted the bell, starter, clutch, tensioner and the pistons. One of the cylinder studs was wrong so had to use the other for fitting. Hope to have everything done next month so we can put it in the bike.

Too bad she's not a bone stock 1150 engine. The bike it is going into has 2000 original miles and looks new.

 

[rosco15]

I can't wait to get this started. I just need to change the studs in my slider to the 8mm. They are on order. And I'm waiting for my fairing to come back. I got the painter that works on our fleet cars to do it at cost. Heres a couple pics. homemade ring compressors, fairing bracket I made, pmfr 48t sprocket, and the assembled engine.

 

[rosco15]

 

[lecroy]

The top secret weapon!!! Can't wait to hear how this works out...

 

[lecroy]

Trying to keep up with the Jone's. Looking at your front nose there appears to be five switches on your bike. So a little hunting....

It looks like 5 switches, 5 lights, air pressure and tether. Then the black box....
What on earth do all of those switches and lights do??????

My bike is just about as bad with 6 switches and the boost gauge. This gave me the insperatation to rewire my entire bike. I cut out about half the wire out of it.

 

[rosco15]

Red light far left is a fifth gear light.
Then the tether/kill cord.
Green light on the left only comes on when the bike is in first gear, Schnitz box is active, and the 2 step button is pressed. Kind of a ready to launch light.
Green light to the right is main power
Blue light on the far right is neutral.

First switch to the left is used to activate the schnitz box. Most people use a switched throttle for this.
Next switch in is for an onboard 12v air pump. Backup onboard air system
Just to the right of the shift light and air pressure guage is the starter button.
To the right of the starter button is the main power switch.
The round plug above the shift light is an amplifier style jack I use to plug my battery charger in.
To the bottom right is a remote 2-step selector thats not pictured.

Gonna have to stop at the paint shop and see how my fairing is coming along. I would love to see the finished product.

 

[lecroy]

You don't need an ignition key, because no robber is going to figure it out!! Now you have to add one more switch.

I often thought I should make a website dedicated to drag bike dash boards.
The last time I was at an all bike meet in Norwalk they had a bike show at night and I took the time to look at every one of them. I was amazed at how many different ideas people have for their launch buttons alone.

What do you mean when you wrote about "activate the schnitz box". I don't understand why or how you would use the throttle switch to turn it on. Isn't this the ignition?

Do you button shift?