• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

What's going on in your garage? Part II

  • Thread starter Thread starter lecroy
  • Start date Start date
The schnitz box requires a 12v activation signal for sequential shifting, auto shifting, and to activate the nitrous timers. Since I shift at a different rpm for each gear so I need to activate this 12v input. I could use it to auto shift, but do to a bumpy track, never have. I just hit the button. Most guys use the switched throttle so the nitrous and auto shifting only works when your at full throttle. I don't have a switched throttle so I just use the toggle to do it. there is a built in timer that only allows the box to be activated for a certain amount of time. Kind of a safety feature. The timer can be disabled for people like myself.
 
I downloaded the manual for it. It does appear the are trying to make it more safe. Do the guys that run them put a switch in line with the auto (if they use it) for doing burnouts, or just not open them up?
 
Man, was it warm out today. Finished the new wire job and mounted the new controller. Its an in your face (really) box. I went to test everything and the first thing I noticed was no fuel. Impossible. When I put the new connectors on, I swapped the +/- leads to the pump and it was running backwards. So, thats red to red and black to black I guess.. LOL. Rechecked everything again and then she fired right up.
noc1_1.jpg


I had sent my old crank off to see if it could be salvaged after the year before last's melt down. I guess the press fits were good. When I put Ryan's rowdy red cases in, this crank, the second set of APE pins and the new matching basket go in the current engine. The old Falicon crank and basket thats in my race bike will go into my street bike (which is starting to puff, like the magic dragon) and should give it an endless life.....

Pearson had a little more work to do this time. The crank was built by Pouge Machine and had a full weld job. The rods were shot from my little SNAFU. I think the Wiseco pins flexed a bit. So she got a new set of 493 Katana rods, new bearings and a new gear from MTC. The MTC gears BTW are much less than the Falicon ones now.

crank_a1.jpg

crank_a2.jpg
 
Garage Projects

Garage Projects

Mine are two:

1985 GS700ES: rebuild engine with snapped cam chain. Install White Bros. shock from 1986 GSXR750 to replace toasted stock unit.

1978 GS550E: Remove carbs and install o-ring kit to repair leaking between the carbs.

Got lotsa time, very little money......
 
I upgraded the studs on the slider this week. The weather hit 60 today so I fired it up. Sounds real good. I changed the plugs and oil. Now I just need to get the fairing on.

I did have a slight clearance issue between the cover and the bolts I installed in the hat. They rubbed on the face of the support in the cover. I think it's due to the 6 thou clearance the basket has. Allowing it to move out toward the cover. I had to machine the face of the support down a bit. It does bang pretty hard when you put the bike into gear.

Picture%202353-2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sounds like your making some good progress. Did you try and ride it at all yet?

By bang, you mean when the RPM is lower than stall and the air cylinder is not active and you put it in gear (like it would normally work)?

Where did you set the stall?

With the bigger bearing, I wonder if you couldn't tighten it down a little closer to stock.
 
I was contemplating on tightening up the basket a bit. I have 2 other spacers. One was too tight, one is in there now, and the third is in between the two. I may put that one in and see where it's at.

I only idled it in the garage and then bliped the throttle a couple times when it was hot. Next time I start it I'm going to use the air cylinder and try and ride it.

I'm thinking the banging into gear is normal. I recall watching other slider bikes kind of jump when they are put into gear. With the normal clutch it would go into first real soft. Now it's like bam and you know it's in gear. The rear tire started spinning right away. I stopped it really easy with the rear brake.

I have the springs set at about .790thou. and 16g on the arms.
 
Get some video of the maiden voyage!! we are looking forward to seeing it in action!

I wouldn't go any tighter than stock on the shim. Any idea on what air gap you have? Let me know the stall too once you get it out.

I would have to see what your talking about but from what I can tell the bikes all go in smooth. Also, it's used parts, so what kind of shape was the ridge where the plates sit in? I have seen baskets take such a pounding that they get dents from the plates. Then the plates don't float freely and it starts to hang up.

A couple of the bikes have line locks. The rev. limiter is set just to where the chain starts to dance to get them to react for a pro-tree.

Without the line lock, just set to where the bike does not pull. I have seen them get too agressive and watch the bike move in the lights, followed by a big RED.
 
I'll shoot some video of it the next time I start it. The basket was pretty much new. Not a mark in it. I have the air gap around 55 thou. Where are they setting the 2-step at.

The weather went from 60 yesterday to an inch of snow today.
 
Last edited:
I guess I should have wrote 2-step rather than rev. limiter. I'll send you an e-mail.

In the mean time..

Finished up the wiring and pulled her off the trailor to prep. Took some shots of the new, slightly modified tub from the other side.

tractub1.jpg

tractub2.jpg

This is the biggest problem. I called MT to get the scoop on growth. There is 1" on the edges is all (about what I had before). I am already running over the speed where the tire stops growing so it should be fine.
tractub3.jpg
 
Thanks! Ryan was a big help with the tub.

I did a couple of flow tests with my extra little fuel jet. Looks like my 7 PSI Hobbs switch kicks in at about 4 PSI. Need to get a few different jets before heading to the track. Brought it on the 2-step with the new compressor and it went right to 7 PSI. You could smell the unburned fuel and see some nice black smoke for a change.

Track opens on the 7th (if its warm enough).
 
I finally bit the bullet and bought an enclosed trailer. The down side is I can't load the bike by myself like I could with the little flat bed. It could tilt, this one can't. I almost need a ramp with a jack on it. With the diaper she only has about an inch under her belly so it's not at all like loading a street bike.

The new motor is still sitting in the same condition it was. I bought some fittings for it and shipped the old 1100 head off. Maybe in a few more weeks. My friends street bike engine is still waiting on the head as well..... Wife will shoot me soon with all these parts sitting around.

I have been spending time coloring with the 64 Crayola set. I tried some of that high tech software, but it was beyond me. This was another reason to get the bike inside. I had some crazy ideas for it, but in the end went back to my original idea. We are in the 24 hour window with it. I will post some shots soon.
 
The track was supposed to open last weekend. We got about an inch of snow at the house. They said Cleveland and Chardon got almost a foot. Winter just doesn't want to give up.

Mark do you keep the bars on your bike when you trailer it. I can get my bike in and out by myself. I use a 9 or 10' board. I put it about a foot down the ramp door. I raise the end on the ground up with an extra section of 2"x10". When I first hit the board the bike goes up onto the wheelie bars. By the time the front tire goes into the trailer the back tire is hitting the ramp and keeps the middle of the bike high enough to clear the back edge of the trailer. Another guy at the track made a mini ramp out of metal that he welded together. He uses it to raise the ramp off the ground. cuts down on the angle at the back of the trailer. Works great when no one is around to lift the back of the bike up and get him in and out of the trailer. I wish I had a picture of it.
 
Last edited:
I remove the bars. I don't have a big enough car to pull a trailer that big, or any place to keep it. I have a pretty long ramp, but I think it would take about 30' to clear the hump where the ramp meets the trailer. I was not kidding about the 1". It just meets the requirements.

If I could lift the rear to get the bike onto the ramp, then lower it I would be set.

I could put the bars on before and after loading, but I don't think I could get it on my own still without putting the trailer on a slant.

On my friends bikes we have to pick them up by the bars and carry them over the hump.

Man, what a day. I took the power saw to the new trailer and got most of the stuff mounted. Then covered the floor in the black and white checkered pattern. Also got the wood all painted white. Still have a little more work to do on it, like lights. This is going to be way nicer than my old utility trailer. I feel like a real racer now. LOL.
 
Ok, here's the deal.

With Ryan's rowdy red engine and my white nitrous controller I had to change her look. I couldn't paint over the engine or Ryan would never know if I was running it or not LOL!


I dedicated her to my late father, who got me started in bikes. He was a WWII vet and was born in the Black Hills. So I was staring out thinking flag, Mt. Rushmore, Bald eagle. Then I thought we should put his dog tag in the paint along with some of his other WWII things. I was going to have them put the pictures down first then go over the whole thing with the flag so you would look through the paint to see the ghost images. Sort of like the last time I saw him with the flag over him. After talking with the air brush artist, we backed off on this idea and planned to put the images over the paint. I was thinking it was Easter anyway, so it was sort of like he would be out side the flag, resurrected as it were.

There was a few weeks of prep work. The tail light was removed and filled and the large hole in the side where the starter cover popped out was filled.
I also had to grind out several hair cracks in the jelco. You may remember I made a custom low profile starter cover for her just for this purpose of filling that hole.

Once the flag was layed down, I went home and thought long and hard about the images. I just did not want to distract from the flag. I talked to the air brush artist and he thought it would not be a problem. I had him put my father's dog tag and compass over the tail section. But the more everyone looked at it, we all came to the same conclusion, the other pictures would not be added. In my original crayon pictures I had "In God we Trust" in the nose of the bike. We ended up putting head lights in but the painter wanted to include it. So it went on the top of the helmet.

Then I was reminded that Suzuki pays for the logo on the bikes. But there was no way I was going over an American flag with any sort of logo. So that was left off as well along with Fisher's. I think everyone agreed this was the right thing to do.

Still need to be wet sanded and buffed. Maybe I will fit them this week yet.

I think my dad would have liked it...

paint1.jpg

paint2.jpg

paint3.jpg

paint4.jpg
 
That is awesome. One of the coolest paint jobs I've ever seen. Can't wait to see that on the bike.

Post some pics of the trailer when you can...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top