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What's wrong with this picture?

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
It's been almost a month since I've ridden this bike. Had a moment to wrench in the torrential downpour today and discovered this. Just like a member mentioned in another thread. He was right.




Now what to do? The piston has some scuffs under the skirt, but all of them look pretty good, for not cracking the block open in over a decade. Even bores look pretty good from an untrained eye.

There are 3 MTC pistons on the bay, but the question I have is: do I replace one sleeve or bore a stock block? I have a stock block. Or press out one sleeve an bore it. Thanks for any advice. (1229 MTC Pistons- 84 1150 engine). Last photo not so great.
 
Get a new sleeve and put the jugs on the grill once it is at around 350 degrees. set them on the bottoms of the barrels and soon as the cylinder block gets warm enough youll hear a thud..the sleeves sliding loose.

Put the new sleeve in the freezer to contract the metal. Insert new sleeve(s) and set the jugs on a flat surface with the shoulder on the flat to hold the sleeves in as the cylinders cool. Soon as the jugs are cooled down, the sleeves will be trapped and ready to go.

Its just an expansion / contraction arrangement that is used to assemble or disassemble them.
 
Are those sleeves normally that thin after an over bore to 1229 CC?
 
Do not mean to hijack this thread, but I found this rather interesting, and it reminded me that I read somewhere a dozen years or so ago about the use of ceramics for both the pistons and sleeves. Ceramics can take extreme temperatures without any distortion or movement , and can be made to extreme tolerances. The Japanese were experimenting with the use of ceramics in engine blocks. Does anyone know what happened to this venture? A real bummer about your sleeves though Turk.
 
blowerbike said:
paper thin...that why i prefer the 1198 kit;)
Click to expand...
Put any kind of juice to the motor and this is the result. That's just way to thin a liner.

I suspect someone makes an aftermarket cylinder to alleviate the wall thickness issue? If they do, that might be the better way to go.
 
we are only talking a small amount of course but i always liked the little extra thickness of the 1198.
there's a thread here started by big jay talking about over sized liners for a stock block(1327).
max overbore is just that...MAX :)
 
If nothing banged into the #1 piston sleeve (errant starter clutch parts) I'd still be riding around. Actually the bike ran fine in this condition, I just couldn't hit a starter button and go.

Blower, you're suggestion is to bore all four cylinders on the stock block, the spare I have? I've had my issues with the SC, but the reliability of the sleeve thickness has survived, many long road trips, short rides around town, and track days.
 
yes start with a new block.
the liner thickness is just my opinion and has nothing to do with the damage from the SC.
i had a 1260 do just a little of what yours did but with very small damage to the liner and piston.
it was continued to be raced(drag bike) and was still alive when i sold the engine.
 
i always liked used pistons and rings on a fresh bore.....never let me down and saved me plenty of cash over the years.
 
You need to bore another block. Removing & replacing a sleeve WILL require decking the block, unlike some think it ISN'T just plug & play changing sleeves. They never land at the perfect height. I have no issues with 77mm bores on stock 1150 blocks. It is the same as doing a 75mm bore on an 1100 block.
Ray.
 
These are the bits of clutch and liner (paper thin liner I might add) that I found in my EFE:

P1110452.jpg


P1110545.jpg


Greetings
 
A few more your enjoyment, not mine.

London, that looks like the same bore sleeve material. Thanks Ray for the advice as always. Anyone have one 10.25 to 1 MTC piston gathering dust?
 
Can I unweld a welded super crank if the rod is damaged? Side to side play feels a little sloppy compared to the others.
 
Yeah, maybe that's where the starter clutch bolt heads went. I have yet to find those. Maybe they'll reveal themselves when I find a moment to split the case.
 
I just picked up stock Bandit block for $50 and I had a set of Busa pistons that I paid the same for. I am going to press the Bandit sleeves in the GS1150 block and bore them for the Busa pistons 81mm is the 1st bore on the Bandit sleeve and you end up with a 1360cc motor. If you have to split your cases anyway it is a inexpensive way to get a bigger motor. you do have to bore the cases also and deck the bottom and top of the block.

Just something I thought you might be interested in
 
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