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wheel won't spin with clutch pulled

  • Thread starter Thread starter phaentom
  • Start date Start date
P

phaentom

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So I have this situation where I pull the clutch handle and the engine stays in gear. It won't go neutral. I am finishing up a rebuild and almost have everything back together, but now I don't know how to make the clutch disengage. While I haven't yet started the motor and tried to run through the gears with the engine running and the clutch held, I have run through the gears by turning the wheel. The wheel will spin freely in neutral but when I change into any gear, I cannot get the wheel to spin freely. I have tried tightening the clutch cable to it's limit but that hasn't helped.

Any guidance or suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Marc
 
Try rocking the wheel while applying pressure on the shift lever. You need some transmission rotation to shift the gears.
 
What sort of rebuild did you do to your bike? Any engine related work or not? If it has it sat for a long long time unused, the clutch plates (frictions/plates) might be sticking together.
 
I ran into something like this once after replacing the clutch cable. My problem was that I hadn't seated the release arm all the way, so when I shifted from neutral into gear, the bike would immediately stall.

Once I pulled the cover and checked out the release arm (the thing the cable pulls up against to disengage clutch), I figured out that it needed to press in further.

08.gif



Part No. 7 was not quite seated over flatsided oval end of Part No. 6. Once I sorted that out, problem solved.

Looks like your clutch is different, but the same theory might apply. v0v
 
Hi babes...
Briefly...
Clutch cable stretched...
Clutch arm not set right...
Clutch plates stuck together...
Clutch springs worn...
Clutch basket warped...
Oh yes....

....hand or arm not strong enough to pull in lever!!! (prob not this one!)

Hope.that helps.some.
Xxx
 
Thanks for all the ideas. I am still a little unfamiliar with the names of some things so I don't know what the "top hat" is and how would I know if I set the clutch arm incorrectly? Also, I did do engine head work but I did not do any clutch work.

I also thought that maybe I needed to place extra tension on the cable but then the piece that comes out the top of the casing made an unexpected bang and it felt like it skipped a tooth or something. hard to explain but like over tightening a bottle top and jumping back down a thread. I opened the casing and nothing looked broke so I replaced it and still no luck.
 
the top hat is part number 21 on

http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm?fpg=/spst/1982%20GS1100E,ES/07.htm

Part number 23165-49200 called Rack, release.

If you hadn't touched the clutch in you engine rebuild it was probably just the plates sticking together. That's an easy cure, just warm the engine, clutch in, brake on push it in to first and it'll free off.

If you have now had the cover off the top hat might not be lined up - you'll see how it works if you pull the cover off again.
 
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