where is everyone when i need help????

[kz]

Does any one recognize this little thing

It's the case for your new digital camera and a manual describing how to remove the rotor safely with jumper cables. :wink:

BTW:

The rotor on my bike also sat very hard, so I recommend you to use the correct tool.

Why don?t you just borrow the tool instead of truck the bike away?

The starter clutch itself is normally no problem to repair.

 

[Anonymous]

people dont lend those tools or i would do it. Now come on KZ i meant the little metal thing on top of the camera case. I thought Biker 66 was the only Sweedish wise guy I knew. :lol:

 

[daveo]

people dont lend those tools or i would do it. Now come on KZ i meant the little metal thing on top of the camera case. I thought Biker 66 was the only Sweedish wise guy I knew. :lol:

oh I know, a fiskular opener?

 

[terrybird]

You showed me yours, here's mine :?

 

[Anonymous]

Terry
The little screw fell out and that piece was loose in my alternator cover. It fell on the ground when i took the cover off. I believe it was the cause of squealing noises i had been hearing. I put a larger bolt in its place-used a lock washer and locktite and torqued it in place.
Now tell me what you are doing with that thing out of its home.??? The screw was nowhere to be found.
I also believe the missing screw is what got into my starter cluth and messed it up. I will find out in a couple of weeks when the parts come in.

 

[Anonymous]

people dont lend those tools or i would do it. Now come on KZ i meant the little metal thing on top of the camera case. I thought Biker 66 was the only Sweedish wise guy I knew. :lol:

oh I know, a fiskular opener?

Oh you guessed it. :lol:

 

[TheNose]

Okay, I read this will work. Get a pair of jumper cables and wrap them around the stator housing, then attatch the ends to the battery....no, wait that was another problem.

Terry

Oh no....Don't let me get started on that one again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

TERRY YOU ARE AN ELECTRICAL WIZARD(TROUBLEMAKER.) :lol: :lol:
I had actually forgotten about that classic. :? :? :? :?

Sorry, Scotty. I thought you may need a laugh in your time of trouble. I glad I did, because I got a lot of good laughs from the subsequent post. I was down because I upset Suziq in another thread and this helped lift my spirits. Hope Suziq forgives me and thanks to all for the laughs. Hope you get that thing fiqured out. I wish I could be there to help you.

Terry

 

[TheNose]

Okay, I read this will work. Get a pair of jumper cables and wrap them around the stator housing, then attatch the ends to the battery....no, wait that was another problem.

:lol: :lol: LOL - I had no idea what the hell you all were talking about, so I went through some of the older threads until I found the right one(s). :lol: That made my day.....gave me a good laugh. By the way, the thread ended up asking anyone if they knew what in the world the holes were for in the plugs --- and to this day, that still remains unanswered. So tell us Nose, why are they there? :? :? :?

I kept wishing that Hap would weigh in on the holes in the plug thing. I was told the holes are there to prevent arcing when you put it in the recepticle. The flux lines are spread out around the circle made by the hole and are thus not concentrated on the tip. Not being an electrical engineer, I can't explain it, even though I think I understand it.

Terry

 

[Anonymous]

the thing comes off easily without any wizardry. The trick is to do it evenly. I have a bum left hand andf i never have any trouble taking it off. This is the third time i have had that cover off since i owned the bike, Once because it was leaking. Once to replace the cover with a polished one. and now.

 

[Anonymous]

Im still curious to hear why Terrybird has that little do dad off his bike. it would mean a serious problem to have it off on purpose. It looks brand new also and that confused me a bit.

 

[Anonymous]

I finally found the correct tool on dennis kirk and i just ordered it. I can not see paying 65.00 for someone to pick up the bike and then labor on what I see as a nut and bolt job. Wish me luck. 8O
Thanks Dave and Hap for the assistance.

 

[moto_dan]

Does any one recognize this little thing

yep. It holds down and helps route the wiring from your stator. You have to find that missing bolt!

 

[Anonymous]

Yes Dan . When i Took the cover back off today so I could measure the size of the thread to order ther puller i found the screw
Hap was concerned that it was in the crank case some how. I envisioned little pieces of it in the worst place. but it was all there. The bolt i used to replace it is actually a bolt not a screw. I used a longer one with a lock washer and locktite. Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

 

[Anonymous]

It can be done without the special tool, at least that's what my manual tells me:

Just make sure to (partially) screw the central bolt in, that holds the rotor. Otherwise you might damage the thread.

 

[Anonymous]

Harry i have a better puller than that one. I used heat also and the bloddy wheel wouldnt budge
I think that the type of puller shown(which is similar to what i used) cause a small pinch on the shaft by flexing the rotor and doesnt always allow a stubbron wheel to come off. Now denis kirk has the puller on back order. Well i dont expect the parts for two weeks.
By the way Harry, i just want you to know how much i appreciate the time you spent to put that photo on the site for me. Dineke and Anouk are still nicer to look at than you though :lol:

 

[terrybird]

I had that stator wire holder off my bike because I took my ENTIRE bike apart looking for the part you had in your picture. I had every nut and bolt off and I just happened to trip over the stator cover and there was your part! :roll: Really, I took the cover off to polish it and the wires kept getting in the way so I pulled the whole stator out of the case. So there.

 

[terrybird]

Yes Dan . When i Took the cover back off today so I could measure the size of the thread to order ther puller i found the screw
Hap was concerned that it was in the crank case some how. I envisioned little pieces of it in the worst place. but it was all there. The bolt i used to replace it is actually a bolt not a screw. I used a longer one with a lock washer and locktite. Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

Thats never a good sign, you were lucky to find the screw before there was any damage considering the rpms inside that cover. My screw was really tight tight tight to the case. 8)

 

[Carter Turk]

Starter clutch problems

Starter clutch problems

Scotty, the special rotor tool is the way to go. I paid 25 for mine. It's a breeze with the tool. If you read my 1150 curses solved post in the GS stories section it describes a dowel on the backside of the rotor hidden beneath the three 8mm allen bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor. Not all the models have one, but mine sheared the three allen bolts three different times.

The problem was the dowel backed into the recess hole in the starter clutch, putting all the force on the 8mm allen bolts. I had the dowel lengthened so part of it would always be abutting the rotor. I've had no problems since.

The hard part is torquing the rotor back on to spec. I made a rotor holder out of angle iron and one three-way c-clamp. Its best to have the bike on the ground to do this as the angle iron rests on the ground with the sawed off tri-clamp bolted to it and threaded into the two external holes on the outside of the rotor.

The angle iron resting on the ground allows you to torque the rotor nut without the engine spinning counter clockwise. The holes on the outside of the rotor must align in such a way so the angle iron rests on the ground at 4 or 5 oclock.

I hope I didn't spew too much useless information. Carter Turk

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Starter clutch problems

Re: Starter clutch problems

Scotty, the special rotor tool is the way to go. I paid 25 for mine. It's a breeze with the tool. If you read my 1150 curses solved post in the GS stories section it describes a dowel on the backside of the rotor hidden beneath the three 8mm allen bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor. Not all the models have one, but mine sheared the three allen bolts three different times.

The problem was the dowel backed into the recess hole in the starter clutch, putting all the force on the 8mm allen bolts. I had the dowel lengthened so part of it would always be abutting the rotor. I've had no problems since.

The hard part is torquing the rotor back on to spec. I made a rotor holder out of angle iron and one three-way c-clamp. Its best to have the bike on the ground to do this as the angle iron rests on the ground with the sawed off tri-clamp bolted to it and threaded into the two external holes on the outside of the rotor.

The angle iron resting on the ground allows you to torque the rotor nut without the engine spinning counter clockwise. The holes on the outside of the rotor must align in such a way so the angle iron rests on the ground at 4 or 5 oclock.

I hope I didn't spew too much useless information. Carter Turk

No such thing as useless information only bad listners.
Thanks for taking the time. Now if Denis kirk gets the tool in soon ill be ok. I ordered it yesterday and thier website showed it in stock, I got an email from them almost imidiately after saying it was on back order. i hope it is not some sort of inventory game tyhat they play.

 

[Anonymous]

The nut came loose easily and next i must see if one of my pullers will do the trick. I'll try the rubber and plastic hammers first.
Again any ideas or tips will be welcome.

I did this on my '79 550... The Haynes manual suggested the following: The swing-arm bolt is a perfect fit for the hole you just removed a bolt from... Get a slide-hammer handle (or suitable replacement). Remove the swing-arm bolt, put the handle on the swing-arm bolt, and fit into the magnet. Took a bit of banging, but it comes out pretty nicely this way.

Michael

P.S. Of course, this was for the '79 550. Your mileage may vary.

My manual said the same thing, but I mentioned it to the head tech at my shop and he almost had a coronary. Suzuki used a pressed crank, nad if you use this method and the rotor is fully and wholly stuck, you will separate the crank, resulting in terminal engine damage. It was kinda funny when I told him what I was gonna do to see his reaction