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where is my ignitor unit?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I'm troubleshooting a starting problem on my 81 450E. I have no power to the start button. So I'm looking upstream, which should be the connector to the "ignitor unit", but I don't know where that is. For that matter, what does the ignitor unit do?

Here is my wiring diagram for reference: http://www.wsu.edu/~mstoops/motorcycle/wiring.JPG. The igniter unit is on the right side.

Michael
 
The Ignitor on my 83 450 is behing the left side cover. It's mounted next to the rectifier.

The ignitor is the ignition brain.

I think it the thing on the diagram called the signal generator.
 
Signal generators are the pickups on the right side of the crank. Ignitors are generally on the left side of the bike near the fuse block, solenoid, r/r, and battery.
 
If you have no power to the start button??? you are looking in the wrong area
 
Turning on the ign switch sends power to the fuse Block From the main fuse (or ign fuse ??) 12 V goes to the start/run switch To the starter button When you push the starter button 12V goes to the starter relay going thru the clutch saftey switch and side stand switch if equiped activating the starter
 
I would start with checking the actual switch itself, reason being that mechanical electric components will always break before solid state. If your problem is that when you hit the starter button the starter will not engage then try the old screwdriver across the starter relay.
 
jross said:
I would start with checking the actual switch itself, reason being that mechanical electric components will always break before solid state. If your problem is that when you hit the starter button the starter will not engage then try the old screwdriver across the starter relay.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did. The starter and kill switches work, according to my ohmmeter

Michael
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Turning on the ign switch sends power to the fuse Block From the main fuse (or ign fuse ??) 12 V goes to the start/run switch To the starter button When you push the starter button 12V goes to the starter relay going thru the clutch saftey switch and side stand switch if equiped activating the starter
Click to expand...

OK. I get what you're saying. I was trying to look upstream for the voltage but the ignitor is downstream. Upstream goes through the kill switch to the ignition switch, to the battery. Gotcha.

Welp, I did some more hunting and what I found was that, connector to connector, all the wires are good. However, with the ignition switched engaged, there is no voltage to the kill switch and start button. The horn and everything else attached to the ignition switch has power. But not starter and ignitors, etc. I guess the only thing left to suspect is the connector between the ignition switch and the kill switch, being that I only tested from connector to connector with my multimeter. But if the connector doesn't work then my tests wouldn't catch that problem.

Flingin flangin electrical gremlins!!! :evil: :evil: :evil:

Thanks for your help. Wish me luck.

Michael
 
mopolopo said:
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Turning on the ign switch sends power to the fuse Block From the main fuse (or ign fuse ??) 12 V goes to the start/run switch To the starter button When you push the starter button 12V goes to the starter relay going thru the clutch saftey switch and side stand switch if equiped activating the starter
Click to expand...

OK. I get what you're saying. I was trying to look upstream for the voltage but the ignitor is downstream. Upstream goes through the kill switch to the ignition switch, to the battery. Gotcha.

Welp, I did some more hunting and what I found was that, connector to connector, all the wires are good. However, with the ignition switched engaged, there is no voltage to the kill switch and start button. The horn and everything else attached to the ignition switch has power. But not starter and ignitors, etc. I guess the only thing left to suspect is the connector between the ignition switch and the kill switch, being that I only tested from connector to connector with my multimeter. But if the connector doesn't work then my tests wouldn't catch that problem.

Flingin flangin electrical gremlins!!! :evil: :evil: :evil:

Thanks for your help. Wish me luck.

Michael
Click to expand...

ReRead what SqDancerLynn1 wrote:... Unless I missed something you didn't mention checking these switches.....
 
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