Where to purchase SH775 or FH020AA or mosfet R/R for Canadians!? Help

[theordinaire]

Any Canadians know where we can acquire mosfet r/r for reasonable prices? r/r is a toast and need a new one asap
Thanks

 

[Steve]

I'm sure there is a Canadian or three that can answer your question, but I'm not one of them.

Skip the FH020AA and the MOSFET R/R, go straight to the SH775.

Quick search on eBay does not show any in Canada, but it shouldn't cost that much more.

To save you some aggravation, here are some of the links:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-POLAR...231661?hash=item1ee291e76d:g:3RgAAOSwdIFbFY9H

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RZR-800-S-...820056&hash=item4d748a2a7c:g:a2YAAOSwa9FbDa~F

Hey, I found one in Canada!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-rz...557992?hash=item284ef7da68:g:YaMAAOSwp7taZ5Ur

.

 

[Guest]

EBay is your friend. Don't search for SH775, rather search for the Polaris or Can Am part numbers (look them up). If you search SH775 your screen will be flooded with look-a-likes that aren't series regulators. Check the pictures - if you don't see SH775A or B on the end of the unit then it's not the real thing. Follow Steve's links above and you'll get the idea.

You'd get really lucky to find one in Canada that is as cheap as one from the US. If you can find one at all. If you do find one and want the fitted connectors, check RM Stator, either on their website or EBay page.

Good luck!

 

[Guest]

I bought my SH-775 from a local Polaris dealer.


Mark

 

[Guest]

I bought my SH-775 from a local Polaris dealer.

For sure. You can always buy a brand new one. I was directing toward EBay due to the "reasonable price" request of the PO.

 

[posplayr]

We recently had a SH-775 scare. Someone was reporting a DOA SH-775, then they reported the second DOA replacement. Turns out it was "operator error" and the scare was evaculated. The SH-775 still seems to have a 100% reliability score reported here.

 

[TxGSrider]

For sure. You can always buy a brand new one. I was directing toward EBay due to the "reasonable price" request of the PO.

Because of all the posts about the OEM Suzuki style r/r failures I bought a used Polaris one off Ebay a few weeks ago for $39.00 shipped and $15.00 for the connector kit. I haven't installed it yet, but the point is that the conversion can be one for less than $60.00 with some careful shopping.

 

[posplayr]

Because of all the posts about the OEM Suzuki style r/r failures I bought a used Polaris one off Ebay a few weeks ago for $39.00 shipped and $15.00 for the connector kit. I haven't installed it yet, but the point is that the conversion can be one for less than $60.00 with some careful shopping.

You can solder wires/spades direct to the SH-775 and epoxy the connector housing eliminating much of the bulk of the install as well as the $15

 

[theordinaire]

Wow, this was my first post and didn't expect such nice support. Thank you guys kindly.
I was hoping for a retailer. Being new , I was afraid I might get suckered into a replica that wasn't really a series r/r. But I see now it is fairly obvious.

Hey, I found one in Canada!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-rz...557992?hash=item284ef7da68:g:YaMAAOSwp7taZ5Ur

Steve funny enough, that seller doesn't ship to Canada haha.

Because of all the posts about the OEM Suzuki style r/r failures I bought a used Polaris one off Ebay a few weeks ago for $39.00 shipped and $15.00 for the connector kit. I haven't installed it yet, but the point is that the conversion can be one for less than $60.00 with some careful shopping.

Yes, unfortunately it cannot be had for these prices here in Canada, the least expensive one I can find is $50 plus $25 shipping and I'll get hit with duties (20%~) plus $15 for a kit which will end up to be $20+ w/ freight charges.

You can solder wires/spades direct to the SH-775 and epoxy the connector housing eliminating much of the bulk of the install as well as the $15

Is there DIY on this? I know it may seem straight forward but I'm not a confident lad behind the wrench or any electrical/soldering.

 

[Guest]

Yes, unfortunately it cannot be had for these prices here in Canada, the least expensive one I can find is $50 plus $25 shipping and I'll get hit with duties (20%~) plus $15 for a kit which will end up to be $20+ w/ freight charges.

Of all the relatively small purchases (less than $50US) I've made and had shipped to Canada, I have not yet had to pay any import fees. This includes EBay, Z1 Enterprises and Partzilla. Once the value hits $100US or more then you're more likely to be charged, but I wouldn't worry about import fees on a small value purchase.

 

[posplayr]

I don't think there is a DIY writeup specific to the SH775 without a connector.

These guys will have crimp spades.

http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Terminals

You will need a tool like this.

http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/94

These are some of the most critical connections on your bike, so you don't want to use the typical auto parts store smash crimper.

Personally, I would
1.) crimp the end onto the wire,
2.) slip the spade over the male on the SH775.
3.) Flow some solder into the crimp and into the spade portion to stop the connector from working out.
4.) Probably flips some shrink tubing over the wires and run down to the spades. (heat to shrink)
5.) RTV or almost any other insulating filer will work to cap off the spades (i.e JB Weld, liquid epoxy)

 

[Guest]

We recently had a SH-775 scare. Someone was reporting a DOA SH-775, then they reported the second DOA replacement. Turns out it was "operator error" and the scare was evaculated. The SH-775 still seems to have a 100% reliability score reported here.

 

[LightsOut]

Personally, I would
1.) crimp the end onto the wire,
2.) slip the spade over the male on the SH775.
3.) Flow some solder into the crimp and into the spade portion to stop the connector from working out.
4.) Probably flips some shrink tubing over the wires and run down to the spades. (heat to shrink)
5.) RTV or almost any other insulating filer will work to cap off the spades (i.e JB Weld, liquid epoxy)

Thanks for this. I'm also looking to install a SH775 and I'd like to avoid buying the connectors both since they'll cost me at least $35 shipped (to Sweden) and for the added bulk.
Just to clarify:

3) you'd flow solder also onto where the spade and SH775 male connect?
5) I'm not sure how you mean cap off, would you RTV the spade/male connections or fill the connector housing as was suggested by someone?

Thanks!

 

[Fjbj40]

Of all the relatively small purchases (less than $50US) I've made and had shipped to Canada, I have not yet had to pay any import fees. This includes EBay, Z1 Enterprises and Partzilla. Once the value hits $100US or more then you're more likely to be charged, but I wouldn't worry about import fees on a small value purchase.

Just make sure it is shipped via USPS and not any of the others! The others will ding you with brokerage fees which will add up to more than the value plus the shipping for the part!

 

[posplayr]

Thanks for this. I'm also looking to install a SH775 and I'd like to avoid buying the connectors both since they'll cost me at least $35 shipped (to Sweden) and for the added bulk.
Just to clarify:

3) you'd flow solder also onto where the spade and SH775 male connect?
5) I'm not sure how you mean cap off, would you RTV the spade/male connections or fill the connector housing as was suggested by someone?

Thanks!

I don't want to get into a big discussion about crimp v.s. solder, but would suggest in this situation to do both.

3a) flow solder into the F spade crimp in preventing corrosion from encroaching between the wire and the F spade crimp.
3b) flow solder between the F spade and the M spade locate in the SH775.

5) fill the open void of the connector shroud molded into the SH775 housing (where the M spades are). Filling the void is effectively capping off the spade interface.

 

[LightsOut]

I don't want to get into a big discussion about crimp v.s. solder, but would suggest in this situation to do both.

3a) flow solder into the F spade crimp in preventing corrosion from encroaching between the wire and the F spade crimp.
3b) flow solder between the F spade and the M spade locate in the SH775.

5) fill the open void of the connector shroud molded into the SH775 housing (where the M spades are). Filling the void is effectively capping off the spade interface.

Great! That's sounds like it'll be safe and reliable solution, thanks for clarifying.

 

[posplayr]

Great! That's sounds like it'll be safe and reliable solution, thanks for clarifying.

A couple of cautions.

You need to use a soldering iron with 50 watts of power. This is because a lower power will take to long to heat up the piece and in that time it will get all the wiring around the spot you are trying to solder hot possibly melting insulation from the wire.

The hardest to solder will be the spades coming out of the SH775. They are designed to dissipate heat and that heat will be absorbed into the unit itself. So you have to get the heat into the spade quick before too much has a chance to accumulate into the R/R.

For the spade crimp, I usually clip something onto the insulation directly adjacent to the crimp to be a thermal block. This helps to pull heat from that would otherwise travel up the wire and soften the insulation. A pair of pliers with a thin rubber band would work as well. No need to squeeze too hard else when the insulation gets soft you will squish it out.

Unless everything is exceptionally clean, liquid flux will make the solder blow much easier and you will need less heat.

This same technique works well when soldering large wires like 14 Ga or larger.

 

[IlIDEADPOOLIlI]

I lucked out and found one from Blackgold auto parts in Edmonton on EBay last year. Total cost with shipping was 50$

I then bought a RR harness from Eastern Beaver to connect.

 

[LightsOut]

A couple of cautions.

You need to use a soldering iron with 50 watts of power. This is because a lower power will take to long to heat up the piece and in that time it will get all the wiring around the spot you are trying to solder hot possibly melting insulation from the wire.

The hardest to solder will be the spades coming out of the SH775. They are designed to dissipate heat and that heat will be absorbed into the unit itself. So you have to get the heat into the spade quick before too much has a chance to accumulate into the R/R.

For the spade crimp, I usually clip something onto the insulation directly adjacent to the crimp to be a thermal block. This helps to pull heat from that would otherwise travel up the wire and soften the insulation. A pair of pliers with a thin rubber band would work as well. No need to squeeze too hard else when the insulation gets soft you will squish it out.

Unless everything is exceptionally clean, liquid flux will make the solder blow much easier and you will need less heat.

This same technique works well when soldering large wires like 14 Ga or larger.

Much appreciated! Good idea with the rubberbanded pliers. I was planning on upgrading my cheapo 30W iron for a better quality adjustable one with some more power before tackling the electrics in my build. I'll shoot for a 50W then. And some liquid flux.

 

[habsdoc]

Triumph Motorcycles also sells a direct fit plug in for SH775 for like $10.00. Works really good.